VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > RV Firewall Forward Section > Electronic Ignition Systems
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 02-12-2016, 09:41 AM
Jbon Jbon is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu McCurdy View Post
Remember those blue ignition leads have a fine carbon center wire. . .
This may be something to look into. I know that Electroair specifies 5000 ohms leads. Mine are orange Autolite which assume are the correct type. When I pulled the leads yesterday, I was kind of surprised to see that the connection was simply a coil spring stuck into the core of the lead. Seemed kind of sketchy to me, but I guess they work. I am using aircraft plugs, and the top leads are the aviation grade blue kind which I'm more familiar with.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-12-2016, 10:04 AM
FasGlas's Avatar
FasGlas FasGlas is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 739
Default

The ignition wires used on the EI must be hi performance resistance wire. The ones that came with the Jeff Rose were Taylor racing wires. The spring at the end has a long pin that pushes up the center of the wire core. You must be very careful that you get the pin pushed straight up the center. I've seen the pin pushed at a slight angle and get pushed into the insulation and arc to the plug ground. When you put the wire down the center of the aviation plug make sure the spring is pushing against the base of the plug inside, don't over tighten clamp nut, no need to. If you're using aviation plugs use ones that can be gapped to .036 ~ .040, like BY's.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-12-2016, 05:33 PM
Jbon Jbon is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
Default

Thanks for the information Mr. Glas!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-12-2016, 05:33 PM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is online now
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 2,627
Default Use MSD IGNITON caps

Like Stu says, it is very easy to break that wire if you wrap it around. I use the MSD ignition ends. The center wire is clamped straight out of the center of the wire between two ears, much like a molex connector.

Vic
__________________
Vic Syracuse

Built RV-4, RV-6, 2-RV-10's, RV-7A, RV-8, Prescott Pusher, Kitfox Model II, Kitfox Speedster, Kitfox 7 Super Sport, Just Superstol, DAR, A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor, CFII-ASMEL/ASES
Kitplanes "Unairworthy" monthly feature
EAA Sport Aviation "Checkpoints" column
EAA Homebuilt Council Chair/member EAA BOD
Author "Pre-Buy Guide for Amateur-Built Aircraft"
www.Baselegaviation.com
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-26-2016, 08:12 AM
Jbon Jbon is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
Default

I let this topic creep into another thread in the engine section (sorry about that).

The Electroair manual says it is essential to use a spark plug wire with not less than 5000 ohms per foot. Yesterday, I measured the resistance and length of each lead. I found the following:

#1 - 3.75' measured 21k ohms. Should be 18.75
#2 - 3.25' measured 10.3k ohms. Should be 16.25
#3 - 2.7' measured 7.95k ohms. Should be 13.5
#4 - 3.1' measured 10.8k ohms. Should be 15.5

So, it looks like my problem may be in the wires. I'll be ordering a new set from Electroair and hope that solves my problem.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 03-27-2016, 04:12 PM
Jbon Jbon is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
Default

Just to update my progress on solving my ignition issue. . . I replaced the plug wires, but unfortunately, it didn't make any difference in my run up RPM issue. I still show a drop of just over 150 RPM vs 50 when running on the mag (accompanied with a slight bit of roughness).

Next, I swapped out the upper/lower plugs to try and isolate a bad spark plug. Still no change.

Now, I'm suspecting either timing, or some problem with the module or coils themselves.

I'm trying to work out the safest way to view the timing marks with a timing light, while staying as far as possible from the propeller! Any ideas?

The manual talks about making this timing adjustment by turning a pot in the module. I can't see a way to open the module, as it is riveted shut. Here's a photo. Anyone know if the module is open on the bottom so I can access the pot by by unscrewing it from the mounting bracket?
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-28-2016, 09:17 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbon View Post
Just to update my progress on solving my ignition issue. . . I replaced the plug wires, but unfortunately, it didn't make any difference in my run up RPM issue. I still show a drop of just over 150 RPM vs 50 when running on the mag (accompanied with a slight bit of roughness).

Next, I swapped out the upper/lower plugs to try and isolate a bad spark plug. Still no change.

Now, I'm suspecting either timing, or some problem with the module or coils themselves.

I'm trying to work out the safest way to view the timing marks with a timing light, while staying as far as possible from the propeller! Any ideas?

The manual talks about making this timing adjustment by turning a pot in the module. I can't see a way to open the module, as it is riveted shut. Here's a photo. Anyone know if the module is open on the bottom so I can access the pot by by unscrewing it from the mounting bracket?
I just did this for my EI setup. I put the engine at TDC, via the dot on the starter. I bent up a pointer device from -6 tubing and clamped it to the forward baffling lined up to the TDC mark on the back of the flywheel. Use a sharpie to make a the TDC line dark enough to see. If your timing light is bright enough, you should have no problem seeing it. This puts you behind the prop with good visibility. I did mine on a cloudy day; Not sure I would have been able to do it on a sunny day.

Larry
__________________
N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:45 AM
FasGlas's Avatar
FasGlas FasGlas is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 739
Default

There's no adjustments in the MAP module. To do adjustments on the ignition you remove the MAP module with the two screws and the plate under the MAP module covers the adjustment pots. The manual has instructions on setting the 18 degs with a DVM. The coils are OEM GM coils, can be gotten at any autoparts store or fleebay. They just plug in, the two bolts hold them on the ignition.

For timing, you use the flywheel makes on the back of the flywheel. You can attach a pointer to your baffling, goes straight down the case seam, that's TDC. Use a little white paint on the 3 marks on the flywheel and you're in business.

Start it up, let it idle and see where you're timing sits. Should be around 18 degs at idle then will increase as the RPM's go up. The advance curve it on the Electroair site and in your manual. This curve is without the MAP sensor.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:00 PM
Jbon Jbon is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
I just did this for my EI setup. I put the engine at TDC, via the dot on the starter. I bent up a pointer device from -6 tubing and clamped it to the forward baffling lined up to the TDC mark on the back of the flywheel. Use a sharpie to make a the TDC line dark enough to see. If your timing light is bright enough, you should have no problem seeing it. This puts you behind the prop with good visibility. I did mine on a cloudy day; Not sure I would have been able to do it on a sunny day.

Larry
Thanks Larry. Sounds like a good plan. Think I'll try it at dusk for better viz.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:02 PM
Jbon Jbon is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FasGlas View Post
There's no adjustments in the MAP module. To do adjustments on the ignition you remove the MAP module with the two screws and the plate under the MAP module covers the adjustment pots. The manual has instructions on setting the 18 degs with a DVM. The coils are OEM GM coils, can be gotten at any autoparts store or fleebay. They just plug in, the two bolts hold them on the ignition.

For timing, you use the flywheel makes on the back of the flywheel. You can attach a pointer to your baffling, goes straight down the case seam, that's TDC. Use a little white paint on the 3 marks on the flywheel and you're in business.

Start it up, let it idle and see where you're timing sits. Should be around 18 degs at idle then will increase as the RPM's go up. The advance curve it on the Electroair site and in your manual. This curve is without the MAP sensor.
Ah, okay I get it now. Hopefully I'll get out to the airport this weekend and check it out. I'll report back.

Thanks!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:39 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.