Question for someone running the older Electroair system

[Jbon]

Originally Posted by Stu McCurdy

Remember those blue ignition leads have a fine carbon center wire. . .

This may be something to look into. I know that Electroair specifies 5000 ohms leads. Mine are orange Autolite which assume are the correct type. When I pulled the leads yesterday, I was kind of surprised to see that the connection was simply a coil spring stuck into the core of the lead. Seemed kind of sketchy to me, but I guess they work. I am using aircraft plugs, and the top leads are the aviation grade blue kind which I'm more familiar with.

[FasGlas]

The ignition wires used on the EI must be hi performance resistance wire. The ones that came with the Jeff Rose were Taylor racing wires. The spring at the end has a long pin that pushes up the center of the wire core. You must be very careful that you get the pin pushed straight up the center. I've seen the pin pushed at a slight angle and get pushed into the insulation and arc to the plug ground. When you put the wire down the center of the aviation plug make sure the spring is pushing against the base of the plug inside, don't over tighten clamp nut, no need to. If you're using aviation plugs use ones that can be gapped to .036 ~ .040, like BY's.

[Jbon]

Thanks for the information Mr. Glas!

[vic syracuse]

Like Stu says, it is very easy to break that wire if you wrap it around. I use the MSD ignition ends. The center wire is clamped straight out of the center of the wire between two ears, much like a molex connector.

Vic

[Jbon]

I let this topic creep into another thread in the engine section (sorry about that).

The Electroair manual says it is essential to use a spark plug wire with not less than 5000 ohms per foot. Yesterday, I measured the resistance and length of each lead. I found the following:

#1 - 3.75' measured 21k ohms. Should be 18.75
#2 - 3.25' measured 10.3k ohms. Should be 16.25
#3 - 2.7' measured 7.95k ohms. Should be 13.5
#4 - 3.1' measured 10.8k ohms. Should be 15.5

So, it looks like my problem may be in the wires. I'll be ordering a new set from Electroair and hope that solves my problem.

[Jbon]

Just to update my progress on solving my ignition issue. . . I replaced the plug wires, but unfortunately, it didn't make any difference in my run up RPM issue. I still show a drop of just over 150 RPM vs 50 when running on the mag (accompanied with a slight bit of roughness).

Next, I swapped out the upper/lower plugs to try and isolate a bad spark plug. Still no change.

Now, I'm suspecting either timing, or some problem with the module or coils themselves.

I'm trying to work out the safest way to view the timing marks with a timing light, while staying as far as possible from the propeller! Any ideas?

The manual talks about making this timing adjustment by turning a pot in the module. I can't see a way to open the module, as it is riveted shut. Here's a photo. Anyone know if the module is open on the bottom so I can access the pot by by unscrewing it from the mounting bracket?

[lr172]

Originally Posted by Jbon

Just to update my progress on solving my ignition issue. . . I replaced the plug wires, but unfortunately, it didn't make any difference in my run up RPM issue. I still show a drop of just over 150 RPM vs 50 when running on the mag (accompanied with a slight bit of roughness).

Next, I swapped out the upper/lower plugs to try and isolate a bad spark plug. Still no change.

Now, I'm suspecting either timing, or some problem with the module or coils themselves.

I'm trying to work out the safest way to view the timing marks with a timing light, while staying as far as possible from the propeller! Any ideas?

The manual talks about making this timing adjustment by turning a pot in the module. I can't see a way to open the module, as it is riveted shut. Here's a photo. Anyone know if the module is open on the bottom so I can access the pot by by unscrewing it from the mounting bracket?

I just did this for my EI setup. I put the engine at TDC, via the dot on the starter. I bent up a pointer device from -6 tubing and clamped it to the forward baffling lined up to the TDC mark on the back of the flywheel. Use a sharpie to make a the TDC line dark enough to see. If your timing light is bright enough, you should have no problem seeing it. This puts you behind the prop with good visibility. I did mine on a cloudy day; Not sure I would have been able to do it on a sunny day.

Larry

[FasGlas]

There's no adjustments in the MAP module. To do adjustments on the ignition you remove the MAP module with the two screws and the plate under the MAP module covers the adjustment pots. The manual has instructions on setting the 18 degs with a DVM. The coils are OEM GM coils, can be gotten at any autoparts store or fleebay. They just plug in, the two bolts hold them on the ignition.

For timing, you use the flywheel makes on the back of the flywheel. You can attach a pointer to your baffling, goes straight down the case seam, that's TDC. Use a little white paint on the 3 marks on the flywheel and you're in business.

Start it up, let it idle and see where you're timing sits. Should be around 18 degs at idle then will increase as the RPM's go up. The advance curve it on the Electroair site and in your manual. This curve is without the MAP sensor.

[Jbon]

Originally Posted by lr172

I just did this for my EI setup. I put the engine at TDC, via the dot on the starter. I bent up a pointer device from -6 tubing and clamped it to the forward baffling lined up to the TDC mark on the back of the flywheel. Use a sharpie to make a the TDC line dark enough to see. If your timing light is bright enough, you should have no problem seeing it. This puts you behind the prop with good visibility. I did mine on a cloudy day; Not sure I would have been able to do it on a sunny day.

Larry

Thanks Larry. Sounds like a good plan. Think I'll try it at dusk for better viz.

[Jbon]

Originally Posted by FasGlas

There's no adjustments in the MAP module. To do adjustments on the ignition you remove the MAP module with the two screws and the plate under the MAP module covers the adjustment pots. The manual has instructions on setting the 18 degs with a DVM. The coils are OEM GM coils, can be gotten at any autoparts store or fleebay. They just plug in, the two bolts hold them on the ignition.

For timing, you use the flywheel makes on the back of the flywheel. You can attach a pointer to your baffling, goes straight down the case seam, that's TDC. Use a little white paint on the 3 marks on the flywheel and you're in business.

Start it up, let it idle and see where you're timing sits. Should be around 18 degs at idle then will increase as the RPM's go up. The advance curve it on the Electroair site and in your manual. This curve is without the MAP sensor.

Ah, okay I get it now. Hopefully I'll get out to the airport this weekend and check it out. I'll report back.

Thanks!