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  #1  
Old 03-18-2016, 10:13 PM
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skyking902001 skyking902001 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Gunter, TX
Posts: 314
Default Oil Cooler Mounting

Need some advice from the wizards! I have cut the rear baffle for the oil cooler and drilled the 705A for nutplates, etc. The lower inboard nutplate is in contact with a cooling fin. If I insert a bolt and get 1 thread showing, it contacts the cooling fin enough to slightly push the baffle to the rear. My question--is it ok to grind a small relief in the cooling fin? If not, looks like I will need to re-order parts and start again in this area. If I raise the oil cooler enough to clear the fin, I am getting real close to contacting the cowl. Thanks in advance. Baffles--blah!

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #2  
Old 03-18-2016, 10:17 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Default Me too

Awaiting an answer to your concern. I'm building that very part tonight.
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2016, 05:04 AM
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Captain_John Captain_John is offline
 
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Default

I don't recall having this problem. Perhaps my cooler was mounted higher?

You say that the oil cooler would be real close to the cowling if you raised it. Well, that is where you want it for best cooling.

I say raise it.

My two...

CJ
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2016, 05:31 AM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
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Default

Can not answer your question right now but will be pulling cowl for condition inspection soon and will check it out for you if no one else does before then.
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2016, 06:54 AM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
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Location: houston, texas
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Default Your fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyking902001 View Post
Need some advice from the wizards! I have cut the rear baffle for the oil cooler and drilled the 705A for nutplates, etc. The lower inboard nutplate is in contact with a cooling fin. If I insert a bolt and get 1 thread showing, it contacts the cooling fin enough to slightly push the baffle to the rear. My question--is it ok to grind a small relief in the cooling fin? If not, looks like I will need to re-order parts and start again in this area. If I raise the oil cooler enough to clear the fin, I am getting real close to contacting the cowl. Thanks in advance. Baffles--blah!

[IMG][/IMG]
Most of us move that inside lower hole not on the baffle so much as on the flange of the cooler. I made a new lower hole up about 3/4 to one inch higher on that side so when it was driller to the baffle it would just clear the jugs fins. There is a spec. in most of the engine makers books to loose a few fins from breakage. Most builders don't like trimming a little off a fin, but if it is done well there is little effect to cooling if it is a small repair sight. On the subject of moving the cooler up a bit, yes we found that if you locate it up as high and out as you can, you can get a 9 row cooler to fit where the Van's 7 row is dawn-up to go by the plans. We have an ECI IOX-360 that the factory spec called out at 191 Bhp., but we worked on it a little and have it up about 2% from there. The 9 row cooler handles the extra heat load very well, even with all 8 oil spray nozzles installed. We found that 3/8" gap between the upper cowl and the top left corner of the cooler was all that was needed. I would do it anyway you like at this point, your on the right track with this one.
Hope this helps, Yours as always, R.E.A. III #80888
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2016, 06:59 AM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
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Default Your fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyking902001 View Post
Need some advice from the wizards! I have cut the rear baffle for the oil cooler and drilled the 705A for nutplates, etc. The lower inboard nutplate is in contact with a cooling fin. If I insert a bolt and get 1 thread showing, it contacts the cooling fin enough to slightly push the baffle to the rear. My question--is it ok to grind a small relief in the cooling fin? If not, looks like I will need to re-order parts and start again in this area. If I raise the oil cooler enough to clear the fin, I am getting real close to contacting the cowl. Thanks in advance. Baffles--blah!

[IMG][/IMG]
Most of us move that inside lower hole not on the baffle so much as on the flange of the cooler. I made a new lower hole up about 3/4 to one inch higher on that side so when it was driller to the baffle it would just clear the jugs fins. There is a spec. in most of the engine makers books to loose a few fins from breakage. Most builders don't like trimming a little off a fin, but if it is done well there is little effect to cooling if it is a small repair sight. On the subject of moving the cooler up a bit, yes we found that if you locate it up as high and out as you can, you can get a 9 row cooler to fit where the Van's 7 row is dawn-up to go by the plans. We have an ECI IOX-360 that the factory spec called out at 191 Bhp., but we worked on it a little and have it up about 2% from there. The 9 row cooler handles the extra heat load very well, even with all 8 oil spray nozzles installed. We found that 3/8" gap between the upper cowl and the top left corner of the cooler was all that was needed. I would do it anyway you like at this point, your on the right track with this one.
Hope this helps, Yours as always, R.E.A. III #80888
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2016, 08:42 AM
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skyking902001 skyking902001 is offline
 
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Robert, thanks so much for the reply. Never thought about just raising the nutplate--duh! For the lower nutplate, I plan to use the existing upper rivet hole as the lower rivet hole for a miniature nutplate. This should result in raising the bolt hole by .6", this should be adequate to clear the fin. Thanks again!

Steve
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  #8  
Old 03-19-2016, 01:41 PM
SuperCubDriver SuperCubDriver is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Germany
Posts: 443
Default

Not long ago I installed a 9row cooler on my RV-8. I was only able to bolt the cooler with just one bolt on the inner (right) flange of the cooler. I made a brace to the lower part of the flange from this bolt to regain some rigidity. Didn?t have the idea to relocate the holes on the flange - good idea!
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  #9  
Old 03-21-2016, 04:33 PM
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R. Daniels R. Daniels is offline
 
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There's an easy solution for that problem. If you haven't found a good answer yet, give me a call one evening and I can explain to you how I've delt with the same issue on quite a few RV's.

Rex
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  #10  
Old 03-21-2016, 10:12 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by R. Daniels View Post
There's an easy solution for that problem. If you haven't found a good answer yet, give me a call one evening and I can explain to you how I've delt with the same issue on quite a few RV's.

Rex
530-396-2239
Share it with the rest of us?
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