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03-01-2016, 04:57 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Posts: 734
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Fuel Tank Sealant
Does any one know where I can by a quart of Flamemaster B4 fuel tank sealant
The top of my fuel tanks have over 140 rivets and
I don't think I can install them in under two hours.
Thanks for any help
Joe Dallas
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03-01-2016, 05:01 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas, Fort Worth
Posts: 1,237
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__________________
John
RV12 N1212K
Flying Since June 2010
1020 Hours as of 9/30/2017
Johnrv12@icloud.com
RV14 Wing, arrived and building at Rdog's new Hanger at 16X
S/N 140014
Last edited by Jetguy : 03-01-2016 at 05:04 PM.
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03-01-2016, 05:59 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
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That link is to the faster-setting sealants.
Skygeek might have what you're looking for. They seem to have a wide selection.
Or you can do as I did; goop the tank up and assemble it with clecos and let it cure. When fully cured, rivet it.
I used Wirejock's idea for getting extra clamping force on the clecos, by using #4 nuts as spacers on the inside of the joint. Mine had those lockwashers attached so I put the lockwashers away from the airplane parts, which made them easier to grasp afterwards. They came off without any trouble.
The only downside was that my clecos wouldn't initially fit in my #4 nuts, so I drilled them out with a #40 bit in the drill press. Went pretty quickly and no problem. Still, I'm building an RV-3B, not one of the prepunched kits, so my view of what was no problem might not match everyone's.
Dave
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03-02-2016, 04:43 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Posts: 734
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B4 4 Hours
B2 is two hour working time
B4 Is four hour working time
A is thin viscosity
B is thick viscosity
B4 will give me plenty of time if I can find it
Dave's cleco all may work if I cleco every other one then rivet the open holes then mix a new match and rivet the clecoed holes one by one
can I get some opinions of that idea
Thanks
Joe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetguy
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Last edited by joedallas : 03-02-2016 at 04:47 AM.
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03-02-2016, 05:15 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joedallas
B2 is two hour working time
B4 Is four hour working time
A is thin viscosity
B is thick viscosity
B4 will give me plenty of time if I can find it
Dave's cleco all may work if I cleco every other one then rivet the open holes then mix a new match and rivet the clecoed holes one by one
can I get some opinions of that idea
Thanks
Joe
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Try this: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lickkey=560794
I used this on all four tanks and had plenty of working time. I found it no more or less difficult or messy to seal, cleco, and rivet in one session as compared to seal and cleco, then rivet later. But, using B4 like this is twice the price of the B2 from Van's (you're paying ~$50 for a pint of B4 vs. a quart of B2).
__________________
RV-7ER - finishing kit and systems installation
There are two kinds of fool in the world. The first says "this is old, and therefore good"; the second says "this is new, and therefore better".
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03-03-2016, 04:24 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Posts: 734
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4 hours = less stress
Thanks
It is worth the extra $50 to do it all at the same time
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmartingt
Try this: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lickkey=560794
I used this on all four tanks and had plenty of working time. I found it no more or less difficult or messy to seal, cleco, and rivet in one session as compared to seal and cleco, then rivet later. But, using B4 like this is twice the price of the B2 from Van's (you're paying ~$50 for a pint of B4 vs. a quart of B2).
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Last edited by joedallas : 03-03-2016 at 04:32 AM.
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03-03-2016, 05:23 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Fayetteville nc
Posts: 23
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I constructed my RV7a tanks with the standard 2hour sealant and I'm a slow worker. I agree with others about using the cleco's....and then mix a fresh batch for the rivets. I found one tiny leak at the rear baffle on one tank. After that was corrected, no leaks. The leak I had at the baffle was not related to rushing or fast sealant cure time.....that area is a balance of putting in enough to seal and not putting so much that it billows when riveting (at least I thought that at the time) and there is no way to get inside and seal without cutting ports (which I didn't do).
Ellis
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03-03-2016, 10:44 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Posts: 734
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great place to learn
using clecos and a second batch for the rivets may work
I believe that vans wants us to use a hand squeezer ( and squeeze slow ) so that the joint is tighter than you can get with a power rivet puller or clecos.
if the joint is over two hours old then the rivet will not pull the joint as tight.
MY tanks are in the wings and I want to do the best job I can and a little more money is not a Issue.
This venue is a great place to learn
My view
Thanks All
Joe Dallas
Quote:
Originally Posted by EllisMcgaughy
I constructed my RV7a tanks with the standard 2hour sealant and I'm a slow worker. I agree with others about using the cleco's....and then mix a fresh batch for the rivets. I found one tiny leak at the rear baffle on one tank. After that was corrected, no leaks. The leak I had at the baffle was not related to rushing or fast sealant cure time.....that area is a balance of putting in enough to seal and not putting so much that it billows when riveting (at least I thought that at the time) and there is no way to get inside and seal without cutting ports (which I didn't do).
Ellis
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03-03-2016, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,820
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I was surprised that my sealant remained tacky for almost a week after fabrication. Must be OK: four years, 435 hrs and no leaks.
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03-04-2016, 07:00 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Fayetteville nc
Posts: 23
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One thing I forgot to mention. Cure rate is affected by temperature. The cooler you keep the shop, the longer the cure time.....temp often has a huge affect on reaction rates. And....make sure you mix the two parts well. Many reports of curing problems have been traced back to inadequate mixing.
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