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  #1  
Old 02-27-2016, 09:40 AM
laserman laserman is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Auburn, NY
Posts: 46
Default Fresh Air Source From Engine Compartment??

RV8 - OK.. So Vans has the air source to the heat muffle for cabin heat coming from the left corner of the upper engine compartment..

Can.. more importantly.. should I ?

Use the same compartment source for the not-heated air venting source? It would make the installation simpler, and I expect lower pressure drop in the scat tubing having a much shorter ducting run? than grabbing it from the CB-1002A or CB-710A forward air ramps.

I assume given the volume of air entering the chamber that heating of the incoming air is minimal as well as picked up engine odors.

Yes it eliminates the option of an air source during a fire, but most fire related procedures include closing all venting.. and yes I understand a slightly increased risk of CO2 issue. (and maybe that reason enough not to do it)

But I assume CO2 issues is more of an issue with air flow in the lower engine compartment. Have uses dual SS heater control boxes. One for heated, one for non-heated, cross connected via interior via ducting pic shown.

A pic is attached of what I was thinking..

Plus a photo of interior dual venting connections?

Just need a push to take one direction or another?

My guess its all about balancing risks?

Thanks... Alan

FRESH AIR SOURSE OPTION ??

Fresh Air by Arthur Karpinski, on Flickr

INTERIOR CROSSCONNECTED DUCTING

Cross Ducting by Arthur Karpinski, on Flickr
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  #2  
Old 02-27-2016, 09:49 AM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Rockets pull all ventalation air from the upper cooling plenum.
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  #3  
Old 02-27-2016, 11:39 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Air source from just about anywhere that assures you can't get Co2 is acceptable.

The interconnect between cold and hot using the Y's is not going to work very well. Very little air will make the 120 deg turn towards the other vent unless you form some type of a splitter to insert within the Y.
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  #4  
Old 02-27-2016, 11:57 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Air source from just about anywhere that assures you can't get Co2 is acceptable.

The interconnect between cold and hot using the Y's is not going to work very well. Very little air will make the 120 deg turn towards the other vent unless you form some type of a splitter to insert within the Y.
I think you mean CO. (Carbon Monoxide)
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  #5  
Old 02-27-2016, 12:43 PM
laserman laserman is offline
 
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Location: Auburn, NY
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Thanks for the feedback.. Yes the engineer in me should have caught the CO/CO2 error...

Understand about the Y fitting may be a poor performer..

Its super easy to make both vent sources.. heated / non-heated supplies, depending on season... (Central NY here home base:B16)

Project started in 2004 with an EGG H6 Sube engine.. Tore off the engine and panel installation and started over this fall with IO/360

I do it right.. Because I do it twice...



Pics of First time build with Sube Engine and Steam Gauges...

Was so young.. and dumb...

Karpinski Sub H6 2004 by Arthur Karpinski, on Flickr

DSC01010 by Arthur Karpinski, on Flickr

DSC01051 by Arthur Karpinski, on Flickr

DSC01050 by Arthur Karpinski, on Flickr

Karpimski IO360 2016 by Arthur Karpinski, on Flickr

Last edited by laserman : 02-28-2016 at 08:31 AM.
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  #6  
Old 02-27-2016, 12:49 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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My 182 pulls fresh air off the rear baffle like you show.

Contrary to rvbuilder2002, I think your wyes will work fine. I wyed an eyeball vent off the scat line to my defroster and pressure seems to equalize between the defroster and the eyeball.
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  #7  
Old 02-27-2016, 01:11 PM
laserman laserman is offline
 
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Default Lots of available flow please...

Yes.. We shall see with the Y fittings... Have three of the Vans black "throttle-able"eyeball fitting ...Two down low..and one for defrost... (Defrost scat run not plumbed in yet) Need lots heat in the winter... and cool air in the summer

Last edited by laserman : 02-27-2016 at 01:58 PM.
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  #8  
Old 02-27-2016, 02:12 PM
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jdearborn jdearborn is offline
 
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Default 'Y' Connectors

I think your flow will improve if you reverse the 'Y's you have installed.
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  #9  
Old 02-27-2016, 03:17 PM
laserman laserman is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Auburn, NY
Posts: 46
Default Y fittings..

Fully agree... Y fittings are flared for (easy) installation in that way.. Not optimal for sure... The big first questioning was drawing air from the upper cowl OK ? .. Which seems to be ok to do...

Lots more and important things ahead on this project... (Again)

Thanks all for the feedback

I do it right.. Because I do it twice...
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  #10  
Old 02-27-2016, 03:33 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
I think you mean CO. (Carbon Monoxide)
You're right Mel, I had just finished reading the OP's post, (who had also written Co2) and had that stuck in my mind.

Why didn't he get scolded?
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

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Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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