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  #21  
Old 05-15-2015, 07:52 AM
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Pat Hatch Pat Hatch is offline
 
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Location: Vero Beach, FL
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Originally Posted by maus92 View Post
An update on the retrofit: I've cut the hole for the mast. It not the best job in the world - I might need to fill it ever so slightly... Anyway, I've run into a problem with the rivets. I've drilled and dimpled the skin and doubler plate based on the recc's of several builders both here and on my field: holes with #40 bits, and dimpled with a 3/32 pop-rivet die set. The problem is that CherryMax rivets are not available in 3/32 sizes - they start at 1/8 it seems. Should I enlarge the holes for the larger rivet size and re-dimple? Or should I try to use solid rivets? I don't own an air rivet gun or a hefty compressor. I'm sure I could borrow an air gun and bucking bar, but I'm concerned that my $100 Lowes compressor is inadequate for the job.... OTOH, it's only like 10 - 15 rivets that need to be driven, and I'm pretty sure I can get access for the bucking bar through the inspection plate...

I'm looking for recc's or suggestions, thanks!
Find someone on your field with riveting experience and a compressor to help. I would finish the job with the #3 rivets, it can be done fairly easily for someone with experience. CherryMax rivets are total overkill for this job and you can avoid the redo of the dimples, etc., by just going with what you've got.
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  #22  
Old 05-15-2015, 07:11 PM
maus92 maus92 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Annapolis MD
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Originally Posted by Pat Hatch View Post
Find someone on your field with riveting experience and a compressor to help. I would finish the job with the #3 rivets, it can be done fairly easily for someone with experience. CherryMax rivets are total overkill for this job and you can avoid the redo of the dimples, etc., by just going with what you've got.
I did just that: the local guy who recc'd the CherryMax solution earlier determined that my compressor could handle the riveting job. He dug around in his vast hanger (actually the same size as mine, but filled to the gills with all sorts of collected parts and tools,) and came up with an assortment of "antique" but functional air tools and bucking bars. Together, we installed a doubler for my belly VHF antenna that was somehow overlooked during its initial construction, and riveted the new Gretz pitot mast. It turned out well - only had to redo one rivet, but we did chip some paint which was expected....

On a related note, has anyone tried to chrome their Gretz mast? Might look cool.
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  #23  
Old 02-26-2016, 11:23 PM
luv2flypilot luv2flypilot is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Discovery Bay, CA
Posts: 183
Default Garmin Heated Pitot/AOA Location

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Originally Posted by Pat Hatch View Post
Here's the photo taken today. Let me know if you have any questions.

Pat,

I saw this post and will doing a panel retrofit soon using Garmin G3X touch screens. I currently have the standard Van's 1/4" tubing pitot that I will be replacing with a Garmin heated Pitot/AOA and using the Gretz mount. I like your idea using the old pitot hole for the OAT sensor however I was wondering if the fact that you mounted the new pitot with the Gretz mount near the outside inspection plate if it interferes with your tie down and chains when securing your plane?
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  #24  
Old 02-13-2019, 03:33 PM
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Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vaca Moo Airport - TA37 in East TEXAS
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Originally Posted by Robert Anglin View Post
We wanted to be able to remove the Safe-Air mast if needed down the road so we dimpled for number 6 screws in 6 places 4 on the corners and 2 in the middle of the long sides. It worked very well looks good and can be serviced any time we need. Oh the three at the leading edge of the Safe-Air mast that go through the spar lip are screws now too. It is your call.
Yours as always. R.E.A. III #80888
I know it's an old thread but I see you're still posting on the forum. Do you have any pictures? I like the idea of using screws for this installation and I noticed you live close too.
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