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  #11  
Old 02-26-2016, 07:28 AM
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Plummit Plummit is offline
 
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I'm wondering if you got some bad/defective tubing. It almost looks like the aluminum is breaking down. Are you seeing any bits of aluminum falling out when you remove the tool?

-Marc
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2016, 08:28 AM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
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Yes, That is the flaking I'm talking about. The first picture shows a flare immediately after removing from the tool. The next series shows exactly what I was working with. The tube after deburring on a soft 3m scotchbrite wheel and using a countersink cutter to deburr the inside edge, the cone on the flaring tool, the tube in the flaring tool immediately after backing the cone out, and the final outcome of that flare. Not pictured is I used two drops of light oil on the cone before flaring.

http://imgur.com/a/99mtG

Bill,

I really went to town with the 3m wheel and deburred it well. I've tried a countersink cutter, drill bit, tiny 3m cone on a dremel, and standard deburring tool. All with similar results.
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  #13  
Old 02-26-2016, 08:40 AM
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I use a tool similar to THIS to deburr the inside of the tube.
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  #14  
Old 02-26-2016, 04:34 PM
TerryWighs TerryWighs is offline
 
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One note regarding technique. After you have turned your cone to form the flare....do not reverse the cone. Simply loosen wing nut clamps and remove tool. This greatly improved my flares.
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2016, 04:49 PM
Zero4Zulu Zero4Zulu is offline
 
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If using the Parker Rolo tool the cone is fluted and when you reverse direction it finishes the flare. The first partial rotation when reversing does not pull away from the flare because the nut in the tool slips until it catches then the cone pulls away. The tool is designed to be reversed.
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  #16  
Old 02-26-2016, 05:31 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Ryobi

I have the Ryobi. Same procedure. Rotate back and forth to polish the flare.
I also square the end first with a flat block and 400 after cleaning up the burrs.
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  #17  
Old 02-26-2016, 05:58 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4Zulu View Post
If using the Parker Rolo tool the cone is fluted and when you reverse direction it finishes the flare. The first partial rotation when reversing does not pull away from the flare because the nut in the tool slips until it catches then the cone pulls away. The tool is designed to be reversed.
I agree.
The tool is intended to be reversed to finish the forming process.
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  #18  
Old 03-03-2016, 08:23 AM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
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I went and talked with Mike at Cleaveland Tool (thanks Mike) and he was equally baffled. After getting home I decided to try some different techniques. I think I have finally found what works best for the parker rotoflare. When forming the flare it is best to use it like a tap/die set. I would go in a half turn then out, then in a whole turn then out, etc until the flare was finished. It has been leaving nice clean polished flares. My only guess is that by not backing out and rounding out the flare the tube is getting too deformed between the flutes. By rounding it out every half turn it can't get too deformed. Anyway thanks for the help and suggestions.
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  #19  
Old 03-03-2016, 09:53 AM
Zero4Zulu Zero4Zulu is offline
 
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I do the same. Back off a couple times and be really careful to stop without putting too much pressure on the final turn. I found the type of lube makes a difference. I use brake fluid. The red stuff....
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2016, 06:48 PM
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Those look rough and might not seal... I always clean the flaring tool after each flare and the put oil on it just before I make another flare.
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