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02-23-2016, 03:45 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbon
Agreed. That makes sense. Next step is to break out the ohm meter. These leads are "Autolite". Carbon, I assume. What resistance per foot should I be looking for?
Thanks
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I wouldn't worry too much about the EI harness and plugs. Any decent setup should have plenty of power to overcome problems. If I remember, most auto leads werr 500 ohms/foot and the plugs are 5K. Also, you are getting the sizeable RPM drop when you turn off the EI, correct? That points to the Mag.
I would worry about the Mag side. I don't know the spec for the leads, you'll ahve to look that up. You can do all four and any major difference would be a problem. The plugs should be 1K and they often fail and give high resistance. The mags don't pack that much of an electrical punch and high resistance in the plugs will cause a weak spark.
While I don't have an EI installed yet, most seem to report a very small or non-existant drop when the turn off the Mag. This makes sense as the advanced timing of the Mag ends up negating the need for spark from the Mag. The fact that you have a 50 RPM drop makes me think that your mag timing is advanced beyond spec.
__________________
N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
Last edited by lr172 : 02-23-2016 at 03:50 PM.
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02-23-2016, 04:51 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,025
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Try leaning the engine manually at mag check rpm and then doing the check. Or do the check at a much higher rpm say 2200 or so. If it is better it isn't a ignition issue. Are you positive you are running on the mag and not the EI when you are seeing the 50 rpm drop? It is easy to get mag switch confusion especially with toggles and think you are running on the right side and really running on the left.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
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"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
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02-23-2016, 09:56 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172
Also, you are getting the sizeable RPM drop when you turn off the EI, correct? That points to the Mag.
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No, actually I'm getting the 150 RPM drop when turning off the mag, 50 RPM when turning off the EIS.
Thanks
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02-23-2016, 10:04 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahlon_r
Try leaning the engine manually at mag check rpm and then doing the check. Or do the check at a much higher rpm say 2200 or so. If it is better it isn't a ignition issue. Are you positive you are running on the mag and not the EI when you are seeing the 50 rpm drop? It is easy to get mag switch confusion especially with toggles and think you are running on the right side and really running on the left.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
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I have tried the check at a higher RPM. No difference. Yes I'm sure of the switch orientation.
Thanks for your input
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02-23-2016, 10:31 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbon
No, actually I'm getting the 150 RPM drop when turning off the mag, 50 RPM when turning off the EIS.
Thanks
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Sorry then, you are correct in focusing on the EI. I would put an ohmmeter on each wire (let us know the results) and just replace the plugs (the auto plugs should be cheap). Have you confirmed the timing on the EI recently? This needs to be done for both the mag and the EI. If those all check out, you should then check the coil as well as proper grounding of all EI components (the coil may not need to be grounded if it is a wasted spark style). You will need to go to your EI to found out the proper resistance levels for that coil. Failing coils can often be identified by checking the resistance levels against the spec.
__________________
N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
Last edited by lr172 : 02-23-2016 at 10:38 PM.
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02-25-2016, 01:09 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
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Okay, I got some readings on the plug wires. Here's what I found.
#1 - 3.75' measured 21k ohms. Should be 18.75
#2 - 3.25' measured 10.3k ohms. Should be 16.25
#3 - 2.7' measured 7.95k ohms. Should be 13.5
#4 - 3.1' measured 10.8k ohms. Should be 15.5
Looks like I need new plug wires!
Last edited by Jbon : 02-26-2016 at 08:17 AM.
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02-25-2016, 01:16 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 309
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I have a dual lightspeed and the mag drop on both sides were 30-40. I reset the timing and now I have 0-10 drop on each side. I'm also going with iridium plugs
__________________
Nigel
RV9A-N113SQ
52F
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02-26-2016, 08:23 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: DFW
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirlegin
I have a dual lightspeed and the mag drop on both sides were 30-40. I reset the timing and now I have 0-10 drop on each side. I'm also going with iridium plugs
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Speaking of timing. Electroair has you using an automotive timing light to fine tune the timing. Because of the engine baffling being in the way, you'd have to stand in front of the propeller with the engine running to get this reading. Not my idea of fun!
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02-27-2016, 01:42 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbon
Speaking of timing. Electroair has you using an automotive timing light to fine tune the timing. Because of the engine baffling being in the way, you'd have to stand in front of the propeller with the engine running to get this reading. Not my idea of fun!
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I am adding a custom EI and need to do the same. Don't stand in front of the prop. Use the timing mark on the back of the flywheel. Put the engine at TDC and attach a coat hanger to the engine case and bend it so that it points to the TDC mark. That is your new reference and you can shine the light on it from behind the prop. There is also a 20/25* mark on the back if they have you time to that reference.
Larry
__________________
N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
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