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02-25-2016, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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Are these flares okay?
I'm working on the fuel lines for the fuselage and although my flares do not have cracks or splits they have what I would describe as flaking or light scoring. I used a couple drops of oil on the flaring tool and deburred the tube before flaring. Some photos are linked below. Everything else on the flare I believe looks great but not having the inside look polished smoothed has me a little concerned.
http://imgur.com/a/FR945
Thanks,
Jim
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02-25-2016, 09:07 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Perhaps the cone of the flaring tool is not fully polished...
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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02-25-2016, 09:13 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
Perhaps the cone of the flaring tool is not fully polished...
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I agree.
Sometimes a light polishing of the forming surfaces on a scotchbrite wheel will help the tool performance.
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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02-25-2016, 11:23 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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or - did you flare after a tubing cut and not ream the end? They seemed to go better for me with compete removal of the tubing cutter deformation. As usual, YMMV.
Congratulations is in order for experimenting, looking, evaluating and asking. You are almost there.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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02-25-2016, 12:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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Okay so I took apart the flaring tool and polished the end. I am getting good flares at times but others are still having flaking/scoring. I have tried to use a scotchbrite pad on the cone in between flares, cleaning and wiping down and reoiling every time. I still ended up getting this flare on the end of tube.
http://i.imgur.com/XpPGLO6.jpg?1
You can see a spot where there is that scoring.
I am not reaming the tube end but I am using a countersink bit by hand to deburr the inside edge.
Are these inadequate? If this is going to leak I am going to have to order tubing again.
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02-25-2016, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,544
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I wonder if you are maybe just going just a bit too far with the process? Try, on some scraps to see what it looks like if you do not do that last turn or so.
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Tom Martin RV1 pilot 4.6hours!
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EVO F1 Rocket 1000 hours,
2010 SARL Rocket 100 race, average speed of 238.6 knots/274.6mph
RV4, RV7, RV10, two HRIIs and five F1 Rockets
RV14 Tail dragger
Fairlea Field
St.Thomas, Ontario Canada, CYQS
fairleafield@gmail.com
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02-25-2016, 03:04 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
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Look at post 16 and 40 of this thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...=123689&page=2
I found using a specified number of turns gave me consistent results, I did different #'s of turns of the flaring tool and measured the flare that it gave me reference the charts. Lots of experimenting but I feel I finally achieved decent flares.
Also Don't overtighten the B-Nut!
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RV 7 400 hours and counting
19 donation done
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02-25-2016, 03:29 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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I checked my flares and they are consistently .470" which is about dead in the middle of that chart. I am using a Parker rolo flare tool and I stop turning the tool as soon as the pressure changes. Just for kicks I completely under flared a piece and was getting the same flaking and scoring. The flaking seems to be happening at the juncture of the flare and unflared tubing on the inside. I'm pretty baffled.
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02-25-2016, 04:04 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 1,966
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Try a dab of grease instead of oil. Also make sure there is no debris in the tube or on the cone, or an inside ridge left after de-burring.
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David C.
Howell, MI
RV-10: #41686 Under Construction
RV-9A: #90949 Under Construction
RV-10: #40637 Completed/Sold 2016
Cozy MKIV:#656 Completed/Sold 2007
"Donor Exempt" but donated through Dec. 2020
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02-25-2016, 04:12 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliCooper
I checked my flares and they are consistently .470" which is about dead in the middle of that chart. I am using a Parker rolo flare tool and I stop turning the tool as soon as the pressure changes. Just for kicks I completely under flared a piece and was getting the same flaking and scoring. The flaking seems to be happening at the juncture of the flare and unflared tubing on the inside. I'm pretty baffled.
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Be absolutely sure that there are no burrs on the ID that are getting "involved" in the process. I have the roloflare and did not have to polish the cone, but did have to be very sure there were no internal burrs. A countersink was not sufficient for me.
Just for grins. Take a short tube and square off the end with a belt sander and then deburr with scotchbrite. Over do it to eliminate this possibility.
Yes, order more tubing, a lot more.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
Last edited by BillL : 02-25-2016 at 04:23 PM.
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