Rivet
Quote:
Originally Posted by StuBob
This has been discussed before, but there's no consensus and a lot of photos have fallen off. I've emailed Mike Lauritsen to see if there's a tool I don't have, but thought I'd get input from the rest of the Brain Trust.
I'm having a hard time setting the rivets at the aft ends of the elevators. The worst one is on the top side of E-703, the outboard rib. At that spot, I measure the vertical clearance at 0.35". Subtract from that the pre-setting length of the rivet (9/64 = 0.14") and you wind up with 0.21". I ground down the end of my no-hole yoke as much as I dared, and it's still way too thick. I've tried various bucking bars and made a stab at "indirect" riveting, but everything small enough to fit is too light to buck. Is there really something that'll work in an area where the clearance is two tenths of a stinkin' inch?????!!!!
I finally put a pop rivet in there but I don't like it, especially on the top where it's visible.
What are the options I've missed?
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Doesn't sound like you've missed anything. If you have a really tough screw driver, place the flat side on the shank and drive as close to the skin as you can.
Nothing wrong with the pop rivet. Plans sbow them i those areas. Once painted, no one will know.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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