Zip tie bases

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by Auburntsts

Yes and no. Definitely no only using the adhesive backing they come with. I've had much better success scraping the adhesive off and "gluing" them in-place with Goop All purpose adhesive.

Exactly what I recommend, except I use Goop Automotive Trim Adhesive, available at any auto parts store.

[moll780]

+1. PO of my RV9A used these, sparingly, to route cables in the tunnel and in a few places behind the panel. During my AP upgrade, I had to remove some and they were still stuck on pretty good after 7 years and 600 hours.

Originally Posted by Steve

I used the peel-n-stick (foam tape) variety from Radio Shack. They're still in place after 8+ years. I used acetone to clean the bare metal before sticking the pad to the surface.

[rightrudder]

I used the peel-and-stick bases from SteinAir, but mostly for wiring runs back to the tail that lie flat on the floor of the fuselage. Any place where's there's tension on the harness, I used either Adel clamps or ProSeal the bases down.

ProSeal is amazing stuff, but messy!!

[12vaitor]

I started with 3 of the Click-Bond pads to secure a large wire bundle and all failed to hold. After clean up and re-prepping JB Weld works fine. For lightweight retention (RG400 or just a couple of wires) I use the 3/4" squares with 3M Super Strength double-sided molding tape or 3M Extreme Mounting Tape. With the tape mounting you can at least cut them off if you ever change your wire routing in the future.

John Salak
RV-12 N896HS

[ChiefPilot]

Originally Posted by N804RV

I'd use the Click-Bond aviation grade bases. I don't think ones from Home Depot would last.

And yet they do. Surface prep is important (gotta be clean - acetone or naptha) as is respecting the capacity. They've held on for 3yrs/550ish hours on my -6A.

[William Slaughter]

I used the locally sourced stick-on bases with the stick-on tape peeled off. Cleaned (alcohol), scuffed with 36 grit sandpaper and cleaned again. Same treatment to the application spot, then applied with Goop. I'm not sure I could get them off if I wanted to. Not used FWF, however.

[bwestfall]

I bought a large bag of the stick on types at HD for cheap. I peel the sticky backing off, clean and scuff the surface and glue them on with Devcon home plastic welder PN 22045. You can get a tube of the stuff at various places like Ace Hardware, TAP Plastics automotive stores or about a zillion other places. Here's a link for Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-P.../dp/B003NUGL9S

I used a couple to secure my main wiring runs on the RV-10 subpanel. For those I used an LP4-3 pull rivet in the center hole but I think the adhesive alone would work just fine. The stuff sets up hard as nails.

The only potential negative being the shelf life of the unused stuff is not indefinite. Don't expect to use it again several months after you initially opened it.

[JanRV6UK]

I have a question regarding the photo above, - What is the 2024-T3 material thickness for the blue ELT bracket riveted to the stringers ? .050 or .040 ??

I rather make one myself than buying it .. :-)

[glenn654]

As others have mentioned, I peel off the spongy sticky pad and use Shoe Goo. It's not too expensive and I don't think it will ever come off.


Glenn 654

[ArVeeNiner]

Originally Posted by Auburntsts

Yes and no. Definitely no only using the adhesive backing they come with. I've had much better success scraping the adhesive off and "gluing" them in-place with Goop All purpose adhesive.

I second the Amazing Goop! I left the adhesive on but then put Goop around the perimeter. They just keep on sticking.