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02-11-2016, 06:10 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 514
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02-11-2016, 07:04 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: adelaide, south australia
Posts: 171
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Nice work, but total overkill.
DaveH 
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02-11-2016, 07:11 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveyator
Nice work, but total overkill.
DaveH 
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Spoken like someone that has yet to have the opportunity to slither into an RV-4 tail cone and replace some rotten rubber hose!
Tony
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02-11-2016, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cedar Hill, TX
Posts: 329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Spicer
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Tony,
Looks good to me, basically what I'm doing with the safeair ports, I ground them flush to mount on the inside.
Lynn
__________________
RV-10 in Process
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02-11-2016, 03:33 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 1,673
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OK. The easy thing for me to do at this point is to ground the nub flush, drill for the rivet and proseal it place. This method maintains the body of the port surface mounted to the outside of the aircraft contrary to what seems to be the way it is intended to be done. Anyone done this with success?
Bevan
__________________
RV7A Flying since 2015
O-360-A1F6 (parallel valve) 180HP
Dual P-mags
Precision F.I. with AP purge valve
Vinyl Wrapped Exterior
Grand Rapids EFIS
Located in western Canada
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02-11-2016, 03:36 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 1,673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjhammes
Yes Bevan. Enlargement hole with 1/8 bit. This matches the baffle pop rivet shank nicely. Dremel safe air head flush with skin. Pro seal on inside of rivet head around shank and insert.
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Have you or anyone you actually done this with successful results?
Bevan
__________________
RV7A Flying since 2015
O-360-A1F6 (parallel valve) 180HP
Dual P-mags
Precision F.I. with AP purge valve
Vinyl Wrapped Exterior
Grand Rapids EFIS
Located in western Canada
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02-11-2016, 08:53 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bettendorf, IA
Posts: 140
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I did this with current build in process. I used the steps I outlined and all worked out. Obviously not flying so can't provide perfomance experience.
My current flying RV8 uses the standard Van's approach with pop rivet, mandrel removed and RTV sealed. All per plans. Works fine. I wanted a little more robustness with fittings on this 2nd build so went Safe Air route but modified with pop rivet. Figure I now have best of both; proven exterior port profile with nicer fittings. Builders choice.
__________________
Charlie Hammes
RV-8, N525RV Flying
RV-8, N208CH in process
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02-12-2016, 06:12 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,514
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I did the same as others, added the Vans standard aerodynamic rivet to a safe-air part. ProSealed in place pop rivet holds the assembly to the skin. Successful? Don't know yet.

__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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02-12-2016, 06:26 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,476
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Easy to make static ports with a rivet-like head and a proper barb fitting on the back side. It's a six-pack job for the Chapter member who has a lathe. You know...take him a six pack of something good, and a dimensioned drawing.
It would also be easy to re-machine a Safe-Air so it had a rivet-style head sticking through the skin. Or just machine a whole fitting with NPT threads.
A solid head allows filing to adjust indicated airspeed in Phase 1. (Maybe you do it with a rivet too. I don't know.) Just cover the skin around the port with masking tape, and slide a vixen file over the port.
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
Last edited by DanH : 02-12-2016 at 06:29 AM.
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02-12-2016, 08:48 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Spicer
Spoken like someone that has yet to have the opportunity to slither into an RV-4 tail cone and replace some rotten rubber hose!
Tony
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The factory supplied kit uses vinyl hose, not rubber.
The same system and installation is still flying on factory prototypes up to 27+ years old with no problems noted.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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