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  #211  
Old 01-10-2016, 04:47 PM
diamond diamond is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 710
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Nice work Dave
I'm curious why you wrap parts in bubblepack before putting them up for storage. Are you not concerned about trapped moisture?
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  #212  
Old 01-10-2016, 05:30 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,064
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No, this part of Colorado is relatively dry. I've got untreated steel parts (not aircraft parts) that must be 40 years old in my basement that haven't rusted.

The wrapping isn't entirely sealed - there's lots of gaps in it. It's mostly for protection from me being clumsy. I left the blue plastic on for the same reason.

I learned to fly as a teenager in Santa Monica, CA, and the aircraft there were definitely subject to corrosion. I'm well aware of that since I paid for my lessons by washing and polishing airplanes and saw them every day. But in this part of the country that's not really a factor. My 1955 Cessna 180 is nearly corrosion-free, in spite of not being primed, because it spent all but about six months in the dry middle of the United States. It's only corrosion came from that six months near the Delaware River, where it was tied down outside.

Dave
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  #213  
Old 01-14-2016, 07:00 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,064
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One of the jobs before riveting the bottom skins on the wing is cutting out the hole for the pitot tube. My pitot tube is non-standard. You can see it here.

And since the RV-3B is not prepunched, there wasn't any sort of hole in which to install it. Fortunately, I'd previously marked the correct location using a short section of the plain strut and the mounting.



All I had to do was cut it out.

A couple of starter holes and an 1/8" bit in a Dremel (try it - it works, not perfectly but it works) gave me this.



A little more and then it was entirely up to hand tools. Here's the hole and the tools. The short section of plain strut was handy, of course, as a gauge.



And with the inspection hole cut-out ring in place,



Another of the jobs is to taper the corners where they overlap. The RV-3B kit comes with full-length top skins so I didn't need to do it there. Wirejock suggested taping off a 3" triangle and that worked okay. I used both a Vixen file and a belt sander. Got to say the Vixen file was gentler. Slower, too. One thing that was hard was getting the corner to taper evenly, and I'm not entirely sure that I really did. Here's my first corner.



Dave
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  #214  
Old 01-19-2016, 08:59 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,064
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Back when I was laying out the bottom skins, I'd forgotten that Van's had included pre-punched inspection hatches for the bottom of the wing. Oops.

I went ahead and made my own, and of course the holes in the backing ring were incompatible with the pre-punched ones. Mine were slightly different sizes, too. Imagine that - Maybe 20 pre-punched parts in the entire airframe and I didn't use four of them.....

I left the cut-outs in the bottom skins until the deburring/dimpling stage. The cut-outs are now complete and I had to match the holes in the hatches to the holes in the spar. Yeah, I'd gone ahead and made holes in the spar for the hatch without including the hatches, another sequence error.

This next part I figured out before riveting the skins on. What I did was cleco the skins on the wing, cleco the hatch back-up rings in place, and screw the hatches on. Of course then the wing was covered up and I couldn't back-drill through the spar. A bit of tape held the hatches in place and the leading edge, attached, gave me a solid fore-aft reference, and with the skins removed, I could easily back-drill through the spar to the hatches.

Here they are drilled and clecoed.



After this photo, I hung the skins back on and double-checked everything. Yep, it all works, at least for the left wing.

I'd joined the VAF group purchase of the PCU5000 prop governor, which arrived today. It weighs 2.1 pounds with the shaft cap still on.



Dave
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  #215  
Old 01-28-2016, 09:00 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,064
Default Set the Hamburger for 15 Minutes.....

One of the shop tools I use is a timer. Now I know that we all have our own kinds of timers. This one's mine, a gift from a friend.



Here're the bottom skins clecoed in place. I've trimmed the holes for the inspection plates. The skins are in place so that I can locate the holes in the plates at the spar flange, which I somehow didn't do earlier. Now it's the left wing's turn.



Dave
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  #216  
Old 01-31-2016, 06:33 PM
Skykingbob's Avatar
Skykingbob Skykingbob is offline
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bealeton Virginia
Posts: 577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
I'd joined the VAF group purchase of the PCU5000 prop governor, which arrived today. It weighs 2.1 pounds with the shaft cap still on.



Dave
Hey David.....thanks for joining in.....got my PCU 5000 in this week also!
(No pic posted bcuz it looks just like yours)
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  #217  
Old 02-01-2016, 09:19 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,064
Default Dsub Connectors

You might remember that I'd installed a pretty red and black GRT roll servo for the autopilot in the right wing. Although I definitely like the GRT system, I switched to my second choice, the Dynon Skyview and am installing their servo instead. The Dynon roll servo came with bare wires and no connector, unlike the GRT servo which had a connector right on the servo. I ordered the Dynon Skyview servo harness and it came with three connectors, pins and a bundle of wire.

Since I'd never used Dsub connectors before, I had to buy the crimping tool and the installation/removal tool. I'd like to thank Steinair.com for providing some excellent videos showing me how to use these. There was only one bit of information lacking: how far to strip the insulation for the pins. Turns out that 3/16 inch is the magic distance. I found that by using a bit of paperclip and measuring the depth of the wire sockets.

Since I didn't want to risk screwing up any of the actual harness hardware, I ordered a bit of wire and some pins and sockets and a pair of Dsub connectors. I got some 20 gauge and 22 gauge wire. After cutting a bit of wire from each, I made this short practice harness.



Once this was done I found that the wire with the pins or sockets on it seems to go into the connector 1/4 inch. The completed cable, from the cable end of one connector to the end of the other connector, was 1/2 inch shorter than the wire I'd started with. Good to know for when I do the panel later on.

The Dynon connector shells are interesting. Remember that this is all new to me and these parts don't come with assembly instructions. But I played with the pieces and it looks as if they go together like this.



Finally there was nothing else to do except wire up the servo's connector. I haven't checked it for the correct wire to connector location yet, figuring that I'll do that tomorrow.



I also tapered the overlapping corners and dimpled the bottom skins for the right wing today, so I did get to do actual airframe work too. And drilled out the inspection plate to spar holes for those inspection plates (which still need dimpling at the spar holes). Busy day.

Dave
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  #218  
Old 02-01-2016, 10:08 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO, Okemos MI
Posts: 2,858
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I also have enjoyed the D-Sub connections. I have a good stripper, but it nicks the wire a bit more than I like where it grabs it to pull off the insulation. Have fun Dave!
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  #219  
Old 02-05-2016, 08:57 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,064
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The Dynon SV32 autopilot servo has an awkward electrical termination. The servo is supplied with a stub cable, mine was 10" long, to which the connector comes when you buy the servo harness, rather the servo itself. That's mystifying but largely irrelevant. I decided not to shorten the wires from the servo, which left the connectors hanging out in free space.

I made this support from a scrap piece of flap stiffener and added some lightness to it. It's simple enough, only weighs about 10 grams, and is attached with a pair of LP-4-3 rivets. Those holes all in a row along the bottom of the support? They saved one entire gram, yes, the whole gram. Maybe a little over.

I made them by punching out a row of pilot holes with my Whitney punch, a handy but awkward tool.



The bottom skins of the wings need to be primed. Here's my paint bench, or rather here's the snow atop the paint bench. This is Colorado and it's winter here.



There's a crude work-around that I'll have to use.

In other exciting news, I've drilled and countersunk the holes for the inspection plates in the spar flange, including the nutplates.

Dave
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  #220  
Old 02-18-2016, 08:37 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,064
Default Engine to the Shop

I took the engine, a Lycoming O-320-D2A, to a local engine shop to have the oil filter adapter and governor adapter added and the engine changed from fixed-pitch to constant speed, and a few other things. The engine hasn't been run since Lycoming pickled it on 2002. That's Joe Folchert of Aircraft Engines & Cylinders in Greeley, CO. (If the Tinypic.com image doesn't show up, please click here.)



The RV-3B plans don't show a firewall recess and I know one will be needed, but until I have the built-up engine, I don't know where to locate it.

You might be asking, hey, what happened to the wings? Are they done? Well, no. But the bottom skins should get riveted on soon and I've been working on other things, waiting for that.

One of them is that to locate that firewall recess, the engine mount needs to be on the engine. The engine mount came unpainted. I cleaned the gray off it and was getting ready to shoot the rattle-can high-temp paint (the snow on the paint bench melted and it's operable again - in fact, I used it today) when I realized that the paint needs a three-step cure up to 600 degrees. I didn't have an oven big enough and was reluctant to take it that high anyway since I'm not a metallurgist. I did spray a couple of samples and cure them to 400 F, to see how that affected the paint and found that this cure slightly increased the susceptibility to abrasion and greatly increased its resistance to chipping. The abrasion test was to drag a 100 grit piece of sandpaper over the paint, weighted down with a bucking bar, one pass each sample (also here):



The cured sample is on the right in one photo above and on the bottom in the lower photo.

The chip test was to drop a metal chisel on it from 12.0" above, 3 drops per sample. (also here):



The paint was Rustoleum's 2000 degree spray paint. I sprayed a primer coat, a white coat and a clear coat and waited a few days before curing and again before testing.

I went out and bought a paint that doesn't have the high temperature resistance of Rustoleum's but doesn't need a baking cure, either. Haven't painted it yet.

Dave
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