Gas strut length

jwilbur · #1 01-19-2016, 10:27 PM

Trying to figure out if I've done something wrong. I'm about to drill holes into my doors for the gas strut attach brackets. I cut a piece of wood and drilled holes the correct distance apart (triple checked) and I find that the brackets are sticking into the window area. Anyone else find this issue? How much wiggle room are designed into the plans here? If I move these brackets in 1/8 or 1/4 will the strut be able to compress that much more? In other words does the design have the struts already compressed 100%?

CharlieWaffles · #2 01-20-2016, 07:26 PM

What did length you use to make your "measuring" stick? The struts get compressed when the door closes and there is no way you can do that with just your hands.

jwilbur · #3 01-20-2016, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles

What did length you use to make your "measuring" stick? The struts get compressed when the door closes and there is no way you can do that with just your hands.

Page 45-16 step 2, Figure 3. :

"Fabricate a bracket locating bar out of 1/8 to 1/2 inch metal/plastic/wood as shown in figure 3. Material is not provided in the kit. The bar simulates the compressed C-1016 gas strut and is used instead of the gas strut to locate the C-1013 gas strut attach brackets on the inner surface of the C-1002-L/R Door."

Figure 3 shows hole center distance of 7 13/16 - 7 7/8.

Aiki_Aviator · #4 01-21-2016, 04:52 AM

Hi,

I had this issue and I rounded off the extension to be in line with the windows.

My approach was that as long as I had a full connection to the door and decent connection to the door and did not take anything away from the bolt hole (i.e. I kept same radius around hole) I was happy.

NOTE: FWIW This is not a structural issue per se... As long as it is strong and functional you will be fine.

Andrew

rleffler · #5 01-21-2016, 06:11 AM

I don't have any good advice to share, since I followed the plans and didn't have an issue.

My only thought is to have somebody else validate your measurements. Sometimes you can't see the forest because all the trees are in your way.

In other words, if you are overlooking something, you'll probably will do it repeatedly.

I'm also assuming you have the brackets orientated appropriately. Having them backwards may cause the symptoms you describe.

jwilbur · #6 01-21-2016, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rleffler

I don't have any good advice to share, since I followed the plans and didn't have an issue.

Based on this comment along with Mark's, I'm guessing the plans have changed since you guys did this step. I AM following the plans!

Quote:

Originally Posted by rleffler

My only thought is to have somebody else validate your measurements. Sometimes you can't see the forest because all the trees are in your way.

In other words, if you are overlooking something, you'll probably will do it repeatedly.

Good advice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rleffler

I'm also assuming you have the brackets orientated appropriately. Having them backwards may cause the symptoms you describe.

Also good thought. There are only two possibilities and the wrong one would be even worse as far as sticking out into the window area.

jwilbur · #7 01-21-2016, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aiki_Aviator

Hi,

I had this issue and I rounded off the extension to be in line with the windows.

My approach was that as long as I had a full connection to the door and decent connection to the door and did not take anything away from the bolt hole (i.e. I kept same radius around hole) I was happy.

NOTE: FWIW This is not a structural issue per se... As long as it is strong and functional you will be fine.

Andrew

Thanks Andrew. Glad to hear there's at least one other person who saw this. This is a better idea than what I had. I was thinking of moving the whole thing in 1/8 - 1/4 inch. But rounding it off will accomplish the same thing with no chance of over-shortening the compressed strut length.

Thank you for your reply here. ... And thanks to the others for chiming in, too.

Auburntsts · #8 01-21-2016, 07:22 AM

Assuming your locating bar measurements are correct (7 13/16 to 7 7/8 center hole to center hole), my guess is the strut attach bracket (WD-1023) on the cabin is slightly outboard. This is in turn pushing the door attach bracket into the window area. If this is the case, then Andrew's suggestion to trim the door bracket's outboard edge down a bit is probably the easiest solution.

jwilbur · #9 01-21-2016, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Auburntsts

Assuming your locating bar measurements are correct (7 13/16 to 7 7/8 center hole to center hole), my guess is the strut attach bracket (WD-1023) on the cabin is slightly outboard. This is in turn pushing the door attach bracket into the window area. If this is the case, then Andrew's suggestion to trim the door bracket's outboard edge down a bit is probably the easiest solution.

You're probably right. For the strut attach on the cabin the plans say something like "inboard/outboard use best fit to the cabin top." I probably favored outboard. .... Whatever I did, however, I did it exactly the same on both sides. The bracket overhang on the other door looks like a mirror image of the pictures I posted. ... At least I'm consistent.

aerhed · #10 01-21-2016, 09:10 AM

That's what it is. A little angle change at the cabin top makes them go towards the door. The strut is about fully compressed with the door shut, so you can't raise the door bracket. Also, if you dicc around too much your doors won't look even when open. At full open the window portion of the doors should be vertical. Trim the offending lower part back from the window about an eighth inch. I would first drill and cleco the door bracket and put the real strut on both sides to see how the doors are when open. You can loosen the cabin top brackets and get a little wiggle and angle adjustment even after drilling. They don't fit there worth beans anyway so I build a little epoxy/flox platform for them. Much more solid with no gaps.