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  #21  
Old 01-12-2016, 07:05 AM
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tomkk tomkk is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Port Orange, Fl
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Xpel has a number of products. Which one are you using?
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RV-12 N121TK ELSA #120845; first flight 06/10/2015; 700 hrs as of 02/2020
RV-12 N918EN ELSA #120995 Eagles Nest Project; first flight 05/18/2019
SPA Panther N26TK; First Flight 03/13/2020
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  #22  
Old 01-13-2016, 06:25 AM
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magiccarpet magiccarpet is offline
 
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Location: Switzerland, Europe
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Default why would sealing help?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1963 View Post
just a reminder that if you seal the edges and drilled holes, you reduce the fuel crazing hazard.
I don't quite understand why this would reduce the crazing hazard. I always thought that it is only a matter of the particular Lexan material which does not like to get in touch with mogas/avgas fuel. Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes?

I am asking, because I am debating whether I should order the new Plexi window or stick with the one I received in my kit. I will soon have reached that step to install that window and I better do it only once, but then I do it right.
$390 plus shipping to Europe is then another question.

Thank you for enlightening me on that.
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2016, 07:27 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magiccarpet View Post
I don't quite understand why this would reduce the crazing hazard. I always thought that it is only a matter of the particular Lexan material which does not like to get in touch with mogas/avgas fuel. Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes?
Some types of polycarbonate sheet have a coating or film on the surface to protect against abrasion and things like gasoline. If the RV-12 rear window is that type (I have heard that it is, but I don't know for certain) than it would be more susceptible to crazing at the edges and holes.

I'm looking at my options now for a replacement window. I like the idea of formed acrylic, but not the cost. I need to go get some measurements and talk to my local plastic supplier to see what they have.
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  #24  
Old 01-13-2016, 10:42 AM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is online now
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
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Quote:
Does it mean that the Lexan top surface is resistant, but not the machined front side, edges, cuts and holes?
Correct
I advise to install the window that you have and try not to spill or splash fuel on it. If it becomes crazed or cracked, then replace it. It is not hard to replace unless it is glued in.
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  #25  
Old 01-13-2016, 01:29 PM
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magiccarpet magiccarpet is offline
 
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Location: Switzerland, Europe
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Thank you for the info and your advise. I will then install the window I have.
.....and will never let the line boy refuel my bird.
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  #26  
Old 01-13-2016, 01:55 PM
Top Cat Top Cat is offline
 
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Location: Fort Mill SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mich48041 View Post
Correct
I advise to install the window that you have and try not to spill or splash fuel on it. If it becomes crazed or cracked, then replace it. It is not hard to replace unless it is glued in.
Joe,


My SLSA rear panel is bolted on and appears to have glue/sealant also. Is this what you're referring to when you infer it might be harder to replace?

Now that I'm aware of the crazing issue I'm thinking of replacing the rear panel with another Lexan (I'll have to check with Vans as I have an SLSA). If I do do you have any tips regarding removing the old glue/sealant?

If installing a new one would you just bolt it in rather than use any adhesive?

Thanks!
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  #27  
Old 01-13-2016, 03:35 PM
Handclutch Handclutch is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Bendigo, Australia
Posts: 113
Default Which type of Xpel

The film used on car bonnets to protect against stone damage etc. It was recommended by one of their retailers. He didn't give me a code or put one on the invoice. I tried to get a 3M product, used by another Oz RV12er, from a different installer but was advised against. He recommended Xpel (although he doesn't sell it) - said it was better quality and clearer, and fuel resistant. I'll let you know how it works out. Hope to fit the new window next week.

Jack
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  #28  
Old 01-13-2016, 05:03 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is online now
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
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Quote:
My SLSA rear panel is bolted on and appears to have glue/sealant also. Is this what you're referring to when you infer it might be harder to replace?
Yes, if the window is sealed in place with fuel tank sealant, then it will be harder to remove. The plans did not call for using sealant when I built my plane 5 years ago. I have removed my rear window once and put the same one back in without a problem. (At least it was not any harder than installing it the first time.) Polycarbonate is strong and resists bending.
Quote:
Now that I'm aware of the crazing issue I'm thinking of replacing the rear panel with another Lexan
Why?
Quote:
If I do do you have any tips regarding removing the old glue/sealant?
No, but it should be similar to removing the top of the fuel tank with a putty knife.
Quote:
If installing a new one would you just bolt it in rather than use any adhesive?
I would follow Van's latest plans. If sealant is not used, the window will be easier to replace. However, it might not be necessary to replace the window if it is protected from gasoline by sealant.
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Last edited by Mich48041 : 01-13-2016 at 05:05 PM. Reason: corrected typo
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  #29  
Old 01-13-2016, 06:48 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,820
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My first crazing occurred no where near the edge. I will replace the rear window during my 5th annual in 2017. I'll try the formed plex version then. Hopefully there will be some operating experience available then to determine if it's worth it.

Rich
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  #30  
Old 01-14-2016, 04:27 AM
rjtjrt rjtjrt is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 775
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Quote:
The film used on car bonnets to protect against stone damage etc. It was recommended by one of their retailers. He didn't give me a code or put one on the invoice. I tried to get a 3M product, used by another Oz RV12er, from a different installer but was advised against. He recommended Xpel (although he doesn't sell it) - said it was better quality and clearer, and fuel resistant. I'll let you know how it works out. Hope to fit the new window next week.
Jack
Where are you sourcing your Xpel from? Somewhere in Melbourne (Australia)?
John
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