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01-07-2016, 12:26 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Liberty Twp, OH
Posts: 640
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Pics of bracing back of GTN to subpanel?
Hi all,
This is mostly directed to the RV-6/7/9 guys out there. I've seen how you brace the rear end of the GTN to the subpanel in an RV-8 (been bugging Jon Thocker a lot lately.  ). But in a 6/7/9, we have to cut a hole in the center subpanel for the length of the GTN (and really a GTR 20/200 also). I have a few ideas on what kind of angle bracket to mount to the subpanel in order to brace the rear end of the GTN. But I was curious for any build pics of how the rest of you have typically done it? Thanks!
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Scott Balmos - RV-9A N112SB
Cincinnati, OH, KHAO
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01-07-2016, 01:18 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: DFW Area, TX
Posts: 229
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I removed the support ribs and used the radio tray as a replacement sub panel support.
I used an .063 angle mounted to the GTN tray and used nut plates on the sub panel so I can remove it if necessary.
My glove box is below the GTN and I shortened it so it does not penetrate the sub panel. The angles act as supports for the rear of the glove box.
The audio panel on top is also short, so the only hole in the sub panel is for the GTN.
My canopy release lever is shortened so it is behind the audio panel tray and works only for maintenance should I ever have to remove the canopy. You can barely see it in the second picture through the audio tray.

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Bob B
RV-7A Sold
RV-4 Sold
DFW TX
Dues Paid
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01-07-2016, 01:30 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 1,259
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I'm still trying to figure out exactly where I'm going to attach? the center rib to my panel frame. I have the affordable panels modular panel and its pretty busy in that area. That might be a good solution if I just removed it and used that rack as shown in the earlier post. I hadn't thought of that. But, I have my autopilot controller at the top so I only had to notch the rib to make it all fit. My problem is simply the attachment point. My fuse kit is to be delivered soon so I'll then have the skin to figure out the exact positioning.
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Ray Tonks
2020 Donation Paid
Titan IOX-370, Dual PMAGs, 9.6:1 Pistons, FM-150
RV-7 Fuselage in progress
* Cabin Interior - In progress
RV-7 SB Wings
* Both Wings fully skinned
* Fuel Tanks Complete - No leaks finally
* Ailerons Complete
* Flaps Complete
RV-7 Empennage - Complete (a little fiberglass work left)
Vans Training Kit # 2 - Complete
RV-7 Preview Plans
Vans Training Kit #1 - Complete
EAA Sheet Metal Class - Complete
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01-07-2016, 01:55 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Liberty Twp, OH
Posts: 640
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Bob, that was one of my ideas, and actually my preferred one, to use angles attached to the GTN box and screwed to the subpanel. What I was worried about, because I hadn't gotten far enough visualizing or testing, is whether the GTN mounting box's side screw holes, to attach the angle to, matched up with the depth of the subpanel, so that a normal piece of .063 angle could be used.
Is that .063 angle a normal 3/4" leg length piece, or is it some other leg length?
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Scott Balmos - RV-9A N112SB
Cincinnati, OH, KHAO
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01-07-2016, 06:53 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: torrance, ca
Posts: 645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbalmos
... is whether the GTN mounting box's side screw holes, to attach the angle to matched up with the depth of the subpanel,...
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You don't need to use the provided holes in the tray. Just drill some new ones where they need to be. You can back-countersink or even dimple the tray if you get creative with the dimple dies. Remember, the side screws in the rear of the tray (front of the airplane) only take up vertical shear load. The majority of the structural loads go through the face of the main panel. On the rear of my trays, I used 5/8 x .016 L-stiffener stock leftover from rudder/elevator/aileron construction. At the panel face, I used 3/4 x 1/16 angle, one piece each side, long enough to hold all the trays. I riveted the angles to the panel and used Rivnuts for the 6-32 flatheads holding the trays to the angles.

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01-08-2016, 07:05 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: DFW Area, TX
Posts: 229
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The existing holes in the tray fit perfectly with the sub panel angle which is the standard .063x 3/4. Note that this is for a tipup and may be different for a slider.
Note in the picture, the sub ribs are cleco'd in place for spacing. They were removed when the cutouts were made for the Skyview panels.

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Bob B
RV-7A Sold
RV-4 Sold
DFW TX
Dues Paid
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01-08-2016, 07:24 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Liberty Twp, OH
Posts: 640
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Thanks Bob. There are definite differences between tipup and slider, but depth doesn't seem to be one of them, since really the depth of the subpanel back from the panel is set by the forward end of the forward canopy deck and forward vertical bulkheads. Anyway, I eyeball-fit some 3/4" angle last night, and I would agree it looks like it works. We'll know tonight when I cut the hole in the subpanel.
Thanks again!
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Scott Balmos - RV-9A N112SB
Cincinnati, OH, KHAO
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01-08-2016, 08:25 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SC
Posts: 156
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Slider subpanel cutout for GTN 750
Marking for wire bundle cutout:
Subpanel cutout (GTN 750):
Angle brace being fitted to right side:
Wire bundle on left side:
Hope these help!
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Melinda Harrill
Flying my RV-7!
Barrett Precision Engine - Superior IO-360 with AFP FI
Garmin Panel - All touchscreens
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01-08-2016, 08:40 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Liberty Twp, OH
Posts: 640
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Beautiful Melinda, actually was exactly what I planned to do tonight, including the wiring hole cutout. It looks like there's some form of clear anti-rubbing tape you put on the hole edges? I was thinking of lining my hole with rubberized tape or similar, to protect the wiring going through.
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Scott Balmos - RV-9A N112SB
Cincinnati, OH, KHAO
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01-08-2016, 08:54 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SC
Posts: 156
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Around the cutout hole -
I think it is called caterpillar edging. 
__________________
Melinda Harrill
Flying my RV-7!
Barrett Precision Engine - Superior IO-360 with AFP FI
Garmin Panel - All touchscreens
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