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  #11  
Old 01-06-2016, 01:34 PM
Guy Prevost's Avatar
Guy Prevost Guy Prevost is offline
 
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You can deGauss quite well with a growler. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=40673 If that doesn't work, get the other kind of growler and drink the contents...
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  #12  
Old 01-06-2016, 01:58 PM
woxofswa woxofswa is offline
 
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Location: Mesa Arizona
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You can also have new stainless steel cables made at a sailboat rigger.
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  #13  
Old 01-06-2016, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6 Gun View Post
Mount a shelf on one side of the floor under where it located now and move it there.
Bob
I don't like this idea. The rudder cables are there and they move. I prefer to just leave it on the upper shelf and do something to hold the seat belt cables there. As Dynon said, as long as they don't move they should be fine.
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  #14  
Old 01-07-2016, 08:43 AM
DennisRhodes DennisRhodes is offline
 
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Location: Taylorsville, Ga
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A small "buzz box' welding machine makes a good degausser. Needs to be an AC welder ie not the DC type used for good welding results! Wrap several turns two or max three of the welding lead around the part and connect to the ground. Need to minimize the time and use in a low amp setting if you have that option. It will get hot and eventually burn up a cheap welder if you leave it for minutes. Its like a stuck rod when you were learning how to weld. Wont take but seconds to do what you need to do. If you ever practice welding you know how bad an AC welder will stick the rod to your work.
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  #15  
Old 01-07-2016, 08:52 AM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
 
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Location: Plano, TX
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You could replace the cables with a non-metallic alternative. They make Kevlar stuff with higher tensile strength. it would probably need some abrasion protection though.

https://www.us-rope-cable.com/kevlar-rope.html
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  #16  
Old 01-07-2016, 08:40 PM
glenn654 glenn654 is offline
 
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They used to make a "thing" used by radio/tv stations that would erase recordings on magnetic tape, I don't know what it is called but one of those may work well as a degausser.

It was about the size of a package of CD dics.

Someone with more experience with broadcasting may be able to clarify.

Glenn Wilkinson
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  #17  
Old 01-07-2016, 09:10 PM
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I had a compass that wouldn't swing because my autopilot was too close to it. I wrapped the autopilot in nickel sheet metal... Compass swings perfectly now. You can get a roll of nickel sheet metal pretty cheap on Amazon.
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  #18  
Old 01-08-2016, 11:36 AM
hesty hesty is offline
 
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Location: Boulder City, NV
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Default Can it be that easy?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xkuzme1 View Post
I had a compass that wouldn't swing because my autopilot was too close to it. I wrapped the autopilot in nickel sheet metal... Compass swings perfectly now. You can get a roll of nickel sheet metal pretty cheap on Amazon.

sounds like a great solution...
too good to be true?
Thanks for all the ideas!
Chad
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  #19  
Old 01-08-2016, 12:07 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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Location: West Fargo, ND
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Default Go to amazon!

I used one of these and rubbed it along the cables. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...r_1_17&sr=8-17 It worked on the cables but I then had an issue with the elevator control horns, I couldn't get this device in and around the control horns well enough, or it just didn't work well enough, so I had to move my (garmin) magnetometer from back by the aft surface near the stabilizers forward to a bracket across the fuse, close to the static ports and away from the control horns. No more interference with the cables though. There deffinately was some to start because I could see the numbers swing during calibration when I would cycle the rudder back and forth.
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  #20  
Old 01-08-2016, 12:28 PM
hesty hesty is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Boulder City, NV
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Default Brilliant

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbro172 View Post
I used one of these and rubbed it along the cables. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...r_1_17&sr=8-17 It worked on the cables but I then had an issue with the elevator control horns, I couldn't get this device in and around the control horns well enough, or it just didn't work well enough, so I had to move my (garmin) magnetometer from back by the aft surface near the stabilizers forward to a bracket across the fuse, close to the static ports and away from the control horns. No more interference with the cables though. There deffinately was some to start because I could see the numbers swing during calibration when I would cycle the rudder back and forth.
Excellent Derek! Great price too!
Thank you.
Chad
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working on wrapping things up before Airport move. RV-7A slider.
Lycoming IO360 engine and MT 3-blade.
(2016 =VAF= Donation made)
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