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  #11  
Old 12-21-2015, 09:38 PM
cajunwings cajunwings is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 768
Default Scales

$10 Digital scale from harbor frt works great to mix sealant and activator by wt. It will come in handy for mixing fiberglass resin later. I keep a thin ziplock on mine to keep it clean.

Don Broussard

Rv9 Rebuild in Progress.
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  #12  
Old 12-22-2015, 08:47 AM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Default

+1 on the scale.
For mixing I bought the $1 plastic cutting board sheets at the dollar store (two for a dollar). I also have one of the 3" pink plastic bondo mixing paddles from the auto store. Zero the scale with the sheet on it (half sheet for me actually). Then the sealant, then dab the catalyst on top till it weighs right. Mix like bondo with the paddle - good to go. Sticks break too easy for me.

After the board dries the proseal peels off easy. Same for the hand paddle. Reused many times. I think three hand paddles come in the bondo paddle package.
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2015, 02:13 PM
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joedallas joedallas is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Posts: 734
Default plastic cutting board sheets

I like this idea
This is how I will do mine

Thanks

Joe Dallas

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDA_BTR View Post
+1 on the scale.
For mixing I bought the $1 plastic cutting board sheets at the dollar store (two for a dollar). I also have one of the 3" pink plastic bondo mixing paddles from the auto store. Zero the scale with the sheet on it (half sheet for me actually). Then the sealant, then dab the catalyst on top till it weighs right. Mix like bondo with the paddle - good to go. Sticks break too easy for me.

After the board dries the proseal peels off easy. Same for the hand paddle. Reused many times. I think three hand paddles come in the bondo paddle package.
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2015, 02:55 PM
Michael Burbidge Michael Burbidge is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 654
Default Mix to color...

I measured by weight for the first few. I noted roughly the size of the sealant and catalyst and from then on mixed based on visual size, and verified by matching the color.

Been flying 1.5 years no leaks. Actually I did have a leak on the fuel level mounting plate but it didn't have anything to do with the sealant.

Michael-
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  #15  
Old 01-03-2016, 06:47 AM
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joedallas joedallas is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Posts: 734
Default Cleaning Aluminum for Flamemaster tank sealant

I received my scale and I will start my fuel tanks soon

http://www.affordablescales.com/shop...Q#.VokcWuRIiF6

I have some questions on cleaning the parts

Vans instructions

Then thoroughly clean all the parts (including rivets) with naphtha or MEK
or an etching acid like Alum Prep or Twin Etch. After cleaning, do not pollute the areas to be sealed. Don’t even touch them. The oils from your skin will affect the bond of the sealant.

1. Will Acetone do a good job or should I buy Alumiprep no. 33 from
Aircraft spruce.

2. How do you clean the rivets, do you just wipe them with Alumiprep or do
you need to scuff them first with scotch-bright pad and then clean.

3. Do you need to rinse the after etching.

4. What works best

This is new territory for me, any help will be appreciated

Joe Dallas
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Last edited by joedallas : 01-03-2016 at 06:54 AM.
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  #16  
Old 01-03-2016, 08:00 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,247
Default

As suggested, naptha or MEK works fine. Acetone is probably OK as well. I have a partial gallon of reducer left over from an auto painting project years ago; that works great. You just want something that will remove all contaminants from the surface. Naptha (mineral spirits) works well because it doesn't evaporate as quickly, so you have time to wipe it down with a dry rag before it evaporates. I scuff the sheet metal with a Scotchbrite pad before cleaning, but not the rivets. Those just get dunked in solvent and air dried.

If you get really ambitious and use an etching solution (I wouldn't, but to each his own I guess) you'll definitely need to rinse the parts afterward.

This is not a really challenging or unique thing. Like any other time you use an adhesive or paint, you want the metal to be very clean, and the mating surfaces should be scuffed.
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2016, 08:17 AM
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MartySantic MartySantic is offline
 
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Mineral spirits is not the same or similar to naptha. I would not use mineral spirits as it does not flash well and leaves a residue. Naptha (Coleman fuel). Mineral spirits (Charcoal lighter).
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2016, 08:28 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Default

I stand corrected... I do use mineral spirits for cleaning, but follow it with a wipe down with acetone, MEK or more often paint reducer to remove any film.
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Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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  #19  
Old 01-06-2016, 04:09 PM
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joedallas joedallas is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Posts: 734
Default a couple of follow up questions

I bought a gallon of MEK for cleaning the aluminum.

I did a test try of mixing and sealing a test joint
This will not be my most favorite thing to do

a couple of follow up questions
If I paint the tank will it harm the tank sealant
Will the tank sealant bond to tank sealant to add a little in the corners.

Thanks
Joe Dallas
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  #20  
Old 01-06-2016, 06:04 PM
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RVTrumpet RVTrumpet is offline
 
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Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 63
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by joedallas View Post
If I paint the tank will it harm the tank sealant
Will the tank sealant bond to tank sealant to add a little in the corners.
That's one of the great things about tank sealant. It's paintable.

Yes, tank sealant will bond to tank sealant.
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