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  #141  
Old 12-31-2015, 07:08 AM
fixnflyguy fixnflyguy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 1,465
Default What I did

Steve,
I painted my -4 DIY as you are. I am in the aircraft business, and have painted several cars, so I may have a slight edge, but I'm no pro. I used PPG epoxy primer, DP40, which is a very easy to use primer, can be sanded if needed, and is compatable with Aluminum,Steel, and Glass. It is easy to find at auto supply stores. I did my topcoat with PPG Desothane, which is widely used by the airlines for the big boys. It is a single stage urethane and works very well, and can be cut and buffed if needed. In lieu of the PVC booth, I built a 24'x24' frame of 2x4's , 8' tall, and suspended the center of the 4 cross pieces with rope from my hangar ceiling so it was open span. I left the front open with 4' spacing on vertical pieces for the other 3 sides. I made a "roll up" door with a PVC tube at the bottom so I could move the plane in and out. This was also a great place to work in winter, and it heated with a kero heater a lot better than the whole hangar. I taped in place 10 heater filters at the top of the roll up door, and put 3 exhaust fans at the back lower edge of the enclosure which I vented out of the hangar.The booth took a weekend to build, and worked great. I have less than a grand in my paint job, and 7 yrs. later it still looks perfect (except the couple party fouls I know of). Yours is coming along great, and you will be proud to say you did it yourself!
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RV-4/N76WE
8A7 / Advance NC
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  #142  
Old 12-31-2015, 08:47 AM
s10sakota's Avatar
s10sakota s10sakota is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 311
Default

E.D Eliot-on my S-10 I used the PolyFiber two-part epoxy primer: http://www.polyfiber.com/products/ep...eenorwhite.htm

On my S-6 I used all Superflite. I just looked on the Superflite website and things have changed a little. For one, it's a LOT more expensive than I remember when I used it back in 2010. It looks like it's now $213/gal plus the catalyst and reducer. http://www.superflite.com/c-1097-metal-primer.aspx Expensive but it sure beats $1,100!

Having used both of the primers, I found them to be exactly the same to mix and use with one being no better or worse than the other. They both went on super smooth and nice.

Steve-I was always happy with the primer/paint I've used, but was never a real fan of the Citation HVLP. It seems like any time I would tip the gun at any angle other than straight up and down, I'd get some weird spray results or drips out of the gun.

I'm not recommending the HVLP at all in my previous post. I was just giving food for thought about how I used a much less expensive primer/paint and had excellent results.

In fact, I don't want to use the HVLP on my Cruzer. I'd love to have a 'real' paint gun but I'd have to buy a large compressor and then add 220 to my garage. Currently, if I turn on more than three light bulbs in my garage I'm blowing fuses so there's no way it would handle the large compressor needed to paint!
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Mark Pensenstadler
1962 Piper Cherokee 160
2003 RANS S-10
2011 RANS S-6S
2011 Vans RV-7
2015 Zenith Cruzer
1962 Mooney M20C
2019 KITFOX Super Sport
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  #143  
Old 12-31-2015, 09:15 AM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3,527
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thx for the info. the downside to PPG Concept is the cost. it is very expensive. also, PPG Concept contains isocyanate and you need fresh air or mask filters for this. mix ratio for Concept is 4:1:2 so one gallon of paint makes 1.75 gallon mixed. I have used one gallon of paint (1.75 mixed) for all of the piece parts but since I only completed a part or two at time I wasted some paint but not much. my compressor is 110V. I purchased an added aux air tank to bring the total to three aux tanks for the painting the fuse. One Harbor Freight aux tank $32 with coupon. the aux tanks are rated to 125psi. my compressor is rated to 150psi. I don't run over 100 psi in the aux tanks and I conduct a pressure check to 125 psi before use with the aux tanks outside the hangar.

since I will have blue on the fuse bottom I will paint the upper fuse and sides white then tape a line and paint the lower fuse and bottom blue. after the blue I will paint a couple stripes.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 900+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
I was born an airplane nut. I have no explanation for it.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com

Last edited by Steve Melton : 12-31-2015 at 09:36 AM.
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  #144  
Old 12-31-2015, 12:42 PM
s10sakota's Avatar
s10sakota s10sakota is offline
 
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Location: Westland, MI
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Steve maybe your setup would work for me. Can you post come pics of how you have the compressors set up?
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Mark Pensenstadler
1962 Piper Cherokee 160
2003 RANS S-10
2011 RANS S-6S
2011 Vans RV-7
2015 Zenith Cruzer
1962 Mooney M20C
2019 KITFOX Super Sport
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  #145  
Old 01-01-2016, 01:39 AM
E. D. Eliot E. D. Eliot is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 1,017
Default Thanks Marc

Mark, sent polyfiber a short e-mail with a few questions today - received an answer a few hours later - That is customer service!

I appreciate your fast and on-point answer to my questions. Looks like I need some more info from polyfiber but it looks really good at this point. Thank you again sir.
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Building finally
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  #146  
Old 01-01-2016, 07:40 AM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10sakota View Post
Steve maybe your setup would work for me. Can you post come pics of how you have the compressors set up?
I'll post some more pics of the compressor and aux tank setup (now three aux air tanks). Aux tank idea is from Sam. I don't believe my air setup would be enough for painting the entire plane but painting in sections I think it will be sufficient.

this is no longer acceptable, Imron paint applied four years ago to the interior with a non HVLP gun. applied heavily to these top rails and left in the sun on a hot summer day. I didn't let it flash properly between coats and created huge solvent pop. it looks like it exploded. I'll repaint these top rails and the roll bar fwd side and hopefully do a better job this time. the Imron paint is tough stuff and the remainder of the interior is good. if there is one thing I have learned is that you must let each coat flash or you risk solvent pop.



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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 900+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
I was born an airplane nut. I have no explanation for it.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com

Last edited by Steve Melton : 01-01-2016 at 09:48 PM.
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  #147  
Old 01-01-2016, 08:49 PM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3,527
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only good method to correct huge solvent pop is to grind it down


heavy paint scratches on roll bar, both sides same location, must be from the canopy, I finally connected the dots, duh. originally I thought I must have been a shoe or a Texas belt buckle. I have white plastic guides (removed in this picture) but I still get these scratches. perhaps beveling the canopy edges would help? is this a common problem or is this Imron paint not as tough as I thought? is the aft edge of the canopy actually making contact with the fwd side of the roll bar upon closure? if so, that could lead to a broken canopy corner. does this occur upon opening or closing? a lot of questions?





proseal, never installed at canopy leading edge and I get water ingress in the rain. hope this treatment helps.


more proseal to the inside, need to clean up the Byonics wiring hanging on the right side, one thing leads to another..... this is the first time the panel has been out since first flight over two years ago, able to remove it within 30 minutes. a chance to give everything a good look under there.


spider web


exhaust duct fitting


door #1


door #2
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 900+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
I was born an airplane nut. I have no explanation for it.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com

Last edited by Steve Melton : 01-02-2016 at 06:30 AM.
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  #148  
Old 01-02-2016, 08:29 PM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3,527
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fuse booth enclosed, still need to seal the upper overlap and a few other places



will add more lighting fwd and under



jack wing one inch, one at a time, and pull plastic under wheels and straighten, takes 5 minutes



suck down test with slits cut for doors, negative pressure evident, booth is not completely sealed yet



wing seal

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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 900+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
I was born an airplane nut. I have no explanation for it.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com

Last edited by Steve Melton : 01-03-2016 at 06:59 AM.
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  #149  
Old 01-04-2016, 04:54 AM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10sakota View Post
Steve maybe your setup would work for me. Can you post come pics of how you have the compressors set up?
my setup, pump spray bottle with water for floor to the right. for winter I need 25ft of hose before the vertical separator to condense the water out of the line, it's coiled on the floor and I splash some water on it for added cooling. two water separators, one at the vertical pipe exit and another at the aux tank exit. I think this setup is sufficient for painting sections, one wing, one fuse, etc. not the overall airplane.

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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 900+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
I was born an airplane nut. I have no explanation for it.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com

Last edited by Steve Melton : 01-05-2016 at 05:45 AM.
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  #150  
Old 01-04-2016, 06:43 AM
06ktrv6 06ktrv6 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Halifax,VA.
Posts: 23
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Hey Steve and others,
What has always worked well for me shooting single stages or for that part any catalized paint or clears is to test the flash off time between coats by doing the fingertip touch test by pressing your fingertip into the previous coat on a spot which is on the masking immediately adjacent to the tape off line. When you lift your finger you should not see any fine stringing, but should should still feel a little tacky. If stringy, wait some more. When it is no longer stringy, it is time to shoot the next coat. This tactic gives perfect dwell time between coats every time.
Avoid laying it on heavy. It just yields a softer finish that is easily bruised.

For a good looking corner/edge protector, run out a length of clear laminated P-Touch Brother label printer tape and install on the corner of the canopy rail after paint has cured well. This makes a beautiful and almost undetectable installation.

Kelly
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