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  #1  
Old 12-30-2015, 11:16 AM
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Husker'87 Husker'87 is offline
 
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Default Elevator E-903 to Skin Rivet

All,

I am having some difficulty getting the last AN426AD3-3.5 rivet driven in the E-903. I can drive the one for the top skin, but that reduces the space that I have for diving the one one the bottom skin. I have tried a couple times using either the toe of one of my bucking bars or a piece of steel that I have ground down to fit into the space. Both had to be drilled out as the head was lifted out slightly. I am looking guidance to get the last rivet driven.

I can post pictures later, but I wanted to get this posted.

This is the rivet in question.


Thanks for the help,
John
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  #2  
Old 12-30-2015, 12:05 PM
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Default Use a...

...pop rivet.
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  #3  
Old 12-30-2015, 12:12 PM
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I drove the AN426AD3-3.5 rivet on my top skin and pop riveted the lower skin.
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  #4  
Old 12-30-2015, 12:27 PM
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Are you back riveting it? I had this same issue with my rudder and back riveted it with a chisel on top of the shop head.
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  #5  
Old 12-30-2015, 12:47 PM
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I completed this recently. Pulled rivet on the bottom. You'll never see it.
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  #6  
Old 12-30-2015, 01:00 PM
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Which pop rivet did you guys use?
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  #7  
Old 12-30-2015, 01:11 PM
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I think it was a BSC-34.
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  #8  
Old 12-30-2015, 01:20 PM
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I am a big, fat liar... I could have sworn I used a pulled rivet but turns out I used a driven rivet.

I used an old wood chisel. I used the grinder to dull the edge and then put a couple pieces of duct tape on the tip of the chisel to avoid scarring the rib. Elevator goes on top of the back-rivet plate. Chisel goes on top of the shop-side of the rivet. Rivet gun driving on top of Chisel.

You might want to try a few test pieces because the chisel tends to drift a bit. You want to keep it pretty flat and steady.

This is a bit of a pain but once it's done, you'll quickly forget about it

Here's an EAA video that covers this very thing...

http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=5337092001
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Last edited by ERushing : 12-30-2015 at 01:22 PM. Reason: content
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2015, 11:58 AM
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Thanks for the link! I will give that a try and let you know how it goes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ERushing View Post
I am a big, fat liar... I could have sworn I used a pulled rivet but turns out I used a driven rivet.

I used an old wood chisel. I used the grinder to dull the edge and then put a couple pieces of duct tape on the tip of the chisel to avoid scarring the rib. Elevator goes on top of the back-rivet plate. Chisel goes on top of the shop-side of the rivet. Rivet gun driving on top of Chisel.

You might want to try a few test pieces because the chisel tends to drift a bit. You want to keep it pretty flat and steady.

This is a bit of a pain but once it's done, you'll quickly forget about it

Here's an EAA video that covers this very thing...

http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=5337092001
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  #10  
Old 12-31-2015, 04:04 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ERushing View Post
I am a big, fat liar... I could have sworn I used a pulled rivet but turns out I used a driven rivet.

I used an old wood chisel. I used the grinder to dull the edge and then put a couple pieces of duct tape on the tip of the chisel to avoid scarring the rib. Elevator goes on top of the back-rivet plate. Chisel goes on top of the shop-side of the rivet. Rivet gun driving on top of Chisel.

You might want to try a few test pieces because the chisel tends to drift a bit. You want to keep it pretty flat and steady.

This is a bit of a pain but once it's done, you'll quickly forget about it

Here's an EAA video that covers this very thing...

http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=5337092001

Same here....... Get used to using a chisel or some other tool creatively as a bucking bar. The are a couple rivets in each kit that you have to get creative with.
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