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  #21  
Old 12-10-2015, 09:53 AM
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MartySantic MartySantic is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dick seiders View Post
Would appreciate if someone out there would provide info on the topic that is brief, concise, and complete. Call it a hose change info kit if you will.

I would certainly appreciate a primer on this and I suspect the many who are coming up on it would as well. Many thanks.
dick seiders 120093
Dick, have you completed your hose replacement project. If so, can you summarize the parts purchased, where purchased, tools needed, problems encountered, etc. Sure would like to see your final report. Thanks!

Any others that have completed this project.... sure would like to see your report as well.
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  #22  
Old 12-10-2015, 05:19 PM
yankee-flyer yankee-flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 838
Default Mine is done

I ordered the hoses listed by someone on the forum a while back from Lockwood without looking too closely-- some of them are oil hoses with a VAF number that don't need to be replaced until 10years-- just inspected each C.I. So I have the hoses to do the oil lines in 5 years if I can remember where I put them.

Removing/replacing big coolant hoses was no problem-- be sure to use the hose removal tool mentioned earlier. The big hose with the sharp bend is the one we put the spring inside of when installing it 5 years ago. Spring comes out easier than it went in.

Short coolant hoses from the reservoir to the heads are a B(*&*(^&%&^$! MY problem was that some were situated so that I couldn't get a pair of hose pliers on them, and I had every type known to man. Took two of us to get one hose off. Put new ones on so that clamps are accessible if I'm still alive five years from now.

Took the better part of two days but was easier because the nosewheel strut was off.

I had a Rotax-trained A&P do the carb rubber replacement earlier this year.

Wayne 120241/143WM Still waiting (5 WEEKS!) for prop blades, Yes, they were supposed to be shipped "This week" which was last week, Nov. 30. Wish I'd known-- I'm sure I could have traded props with someone who won't be installing theirs for a while. Two weeks of really nice weather (for Dec. in Ohio) with no prop.
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  #23  
Old 12-11-2015, 04:47 AM
Handclutch Handclutch is offline
 
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Location: Bendigo, Australia
Posts: 113
Default Spring clamps

What's the specific reason for using spring clamps? My mechanic favours srew type clamps "because you can nip them up".
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  #24  
Old 12-11-2015, 06:38 AM
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Spring clamps are used in many places in industry where pressures are low and piping or tubing may expand and contract. This is done because of thermal expansion and contraction. The spring clamps used on the Rotax are used where the hose is on aluminum tubing. I would stick with the spring clamps. Just a side note. When taking these off or putting them on make sure you do not damage them with a tool you are using. They do make a cable tool that is made for these types clamps. I have seen some use pliers and that in itself won't damage them, but if you twist and smash them it will. This will cause them to become a loose fit and could come off.

A note on screw clamps.
Do not use the serrated hose clamp that comes from a hardware store that many use on garden hose. It can over cam and become loose, it cuts into the outside of the hose and does not provide a good 360 degree seal.

If you are going to use a screw clamp in an application on this engine either use a fuel injection clamp or a Wurth (raised rip) style screw clamp.
Do not over tighten clamps especially on brass barbed fittings or they will cut into the inner liner of the hose. Over tightening will also cause hose cracking over a short time under and around the clamped area.


Owners get in trouble with Rotax engines because they or an A&P wants to do things they do on Cont. & Lycomings or their lawnmower. Rotax does many things for reasons not posted and from many years of research, testing and modifying. It's always best just to put it back the way you found it. Even some aircraft Mfg's have made modifications to the engine through the years and some haven't worked out so well.
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  #25  
Old 12-11-2015, 06:42 AM
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Hi Yankee-Flyer,

When working to remove or replace the spring clamps under the air intake areas it is easier to just remove the 4 screws on each air intake manifold and this will allow you to lift up and move things out of the way to get at these couple of clamps.
On the bottom of the engine it is many times easier to remove the muffler and this will allow ample access to hose under or around the bottom of the engine.
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  #26  
Old 12-11-2015, 08:59 AM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
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Hose tools -- Available from Rotax suppliers and others:


Intake pipes removed for access to top rear hoses--you may want to have new O-rings on hand:



Muffler removed for better hose clamp access:

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  #27  
Old 12-12-2015, 10:23 AM
yankee-flyer yankee-flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 838
Default You DEFINITELY want the muffler off.

I was doing this during the C.I. so the muffler was off. My problem with some hose clamps is that when I took the "spider" off to install the engine baffle I wasn't thinking about having to get to those clamps on 5 years and some of the earls were positioned such that I couldn't get a tool on them.

Wayne 143WM-- yes, STILL waiting on prop blades. Have now been told for the 3rd week in a row "they'll be shipped next week".
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  #28  
Old 12-21-2015, 07:45 AM
N223JH N223JH is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Boerne, TX
Posts: 228
Default Quick Question

Just got my coolant hose replacement kit from Lockwood. There's a pricy ($53) 90 degree water tube PN 922-192 included. I can't remember seeing this on the engine and can't find it in the catalog schematic. Another 12 builder can't find it in the Van's plans.

I noticed, however, it was on the Rubber Replacement List posted on the Forum...

Could somebody save me a de-cowling trip to the airport (low clouds today) and tell me if this is, indeed, part of the RV-12 912ULS configuration and not a generic Rotax item.

TIA, Jim
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  #29  
Old 12-21-2015, 07:52 AM
mrt890 mrt890 is offline
 
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Location: Friday Harbor, Wa
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http://www.lockwood.aero/c-166-water...sion-tank.aspx


Its part # 6
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  #30  
Old 12-21-2015, 10:16 AM
yankee-flyer yankee-flyer is offline
 
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Location: Dayton, OH
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Default Yes it is

It connects the reservoir to one of the engine coolant tubes. If you look at the tubes you will see that one is smooth rubber (that's the molded one) while the others have a much rougher texture. You'll cut those from a length of hose in the kit. Get every type of hose clamp plier known to man before you start.

Wayne 120241/143WM
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