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  #11  
Old 10-30-2014, 05:10 PM
dick seiders dick seiders is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 905
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Lots of questions and it's a bit early, but will answer as best I can at this point.

1. Commercially? Don't know, but maybe.

2. Cost? To be determined.

3. 11 lbs more than riveted tank. The 5052 is .090" for added strength.

4. The sending unit is placed on the top of tank towards the rear. In this way the sending unit could be repaired/replaced w/o removing tank.

5. Yes to the baffles, the reinforcing doublers, and the return line brackets as well.

6. Coupling is welded on bottom for the feed fitting. A threaded block is welded inside the bottom to lock the return line fitting in place.

7. You didn't ask, but the flange for the fill line, and a coupling for the alum. tubing to vent line is also welded.

8. I am still working on sending photos.

note: tank sealant is required only on the sending unit and the T1209 door. the Moller gage, and the two fittings on the bottom.

Dick

Last edited by dick seiders : 10-30-2014 at 05:13 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-04-2014, 02:34 PM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
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Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 1,361
Default Photos of Dicks Welded Tank

The photos show the details well. Please direct any questions to Dick:










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Last edited by Tony_T : 11-04-2014 at 03:15 PM.
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  #13  
Old 12-20-2015, 04:17 AM
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KALEWIS KALEWIS is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Jackson, OH
Posts: 489
Default Any updates?

Any updates as to cost and/or will these be available for purchase? Just finishing a new tank build using parts from the old "seeping" tank. Going new got rid of the sight window as well. Not a fan of sealant and rivets . ZENITH offers welded tanks..... Will VANS ever consider this? No idea.

Video shows a welded tank from Zenith.

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=3617603499001
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2015, 07:26 AM
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Piper J3 Piper J3 is online now
 
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Location: Hinckley, Ohio
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Wrong thread...
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Jim Stricker
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Bought Flying RV-12 #120058 Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 618

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Last edited by Piper J3 : 12-20-2015 at 07:30 AM.
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  #15  
Old 12-20-2015, 03:49 PM
Hotscam Hotscam is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Bosschenhoofd, Netherlands
Posts: 151
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I welded mine from 0.05 to keep it light.
Works well for 500 hours but it does not look so well as yours.
How did you prevent the heat buckling ? It looks perfectly straight
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  #16  
Old 12-20-2015, 09:43 PM
sblack sblack is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,456
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Usually tanks that size have beads rolled in the for rigidity and flange welds on the ends which give more rigidity. You can use geometry for strength rather than thicker material. This helps with the heat disortion. In WWII it was common to braze the fittings on to avoid distortion as the brazing temps are much lower than the melting point of the patent metal.

.09" is much heavier material than most fuel tanks in airplanes, but 5052 is a standard material for tanks because of its corrosion resistance and because it welds readily. This could be made from 0.050" material quite easily.

Kent White has written numerous articles on welded tank construction. A good one was in Home Shop Machinist a coule of years ago. He gas welds everything....old school.
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