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12-11-2015, 10:44 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA / USA
Posts: 159
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Door Edge Lip: Square or 45-degree bevel?
I hope I'm not starting a never-ending debate...
Just getting started on the doors and I had a question I thought I'd pose here: Once you glue the door halves together and trim them to size, they need to be trimmed to fit in the opening of the cabin top. The plans have you bevel the lip of the door at a 45-degree angle, and sand the edges of the cabin top so that the edge on the door matches the edge on the cabin. Some folks seem to have finished their doors differently, trimming the door edge square and building up the edge of the cabin to also be [more] square.
Which is better and what should we do???!?  Or, probably better way to ask, pros/cons of each method? Anyone who did it one way and wishes they did it the other, and why?
If it matters, I'm planning on doing the McMaster seal (1120A311) on the cabin opening.
Thanks as always... Cheers!!
__________________
Mike Jimenez & Sarah Hammonds
EAA Chapter 33 Prez & Soc Chair
Marion, IA USA
RV-10 In progress! (N165MJ reserved)
-Emp & Wings complete
-Panel wired up, working on Fuse & Finish
-Blog horribly outdated (sorry)
-Too many distractions, we will finish the plane someday!!!
http://mikeandsarahrv10.blogspot.com/
http://www.eaa33.org/
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12-11-2015, 10:57 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,420
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The 45* will self center as it closes, just in case the door is slightly misaligned.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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12-11-2015, 12:24 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 4,196
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Mike,
I think you are talking about multiple issues here.
You may have to build up the cabin cover to match the contour of the doors. There are a variety of causes for this that I won't go into here. The most common is a very typical flat spot on the cover between the door frame and rear window.
Your painter is going to want probably a 1/8" gap between the door and cabin cover to ensure that you don't get contact and cause the paint to chip.
You are probably going to get a variety of opinions here too, but what I did was to round all my corners instead of a bevel. My thoughts are that round corners are less likely to chip the paint than anything with a sharp corner.
You are also going to have to build the door lip up if you are going to use the McMaster Carr seals. I recommend using the 1/4" version. Use small strips of glass to build everything up. Keep the amount of filler to a minimum and you'll get good results.
bob
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12-11-2015, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,596
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As Bob says - build up the door or frame to make the fit flush, sand edges round and leave a 1/8" or so gap. Let the door seal do it's job, not try to seal with the door edge.
One trick I learned was the last step in this process was to close the door and put a skim coat of mico over the door to door frame space. Let the mico set up a little then take a razor blade and cut a fine line in the mico along the gap. Let it all set up and then sand. You end up with a perfect door to door frame gap.
Carl
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12-13-2015, 08:34 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA / USA
Posts: 159
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Mike/Bob/Carl- Thanks for the replies! I wondered about the possibility of contact between the door and frame, and also the idea of doing the 45* bevel, meaning there's a sharp 135* corner at the outboard face of the door. The 1/8" gap idea makes sense to me, and I'll try that micro trick!
I think I'll be bonding both doors together by the end of the day today (had hoped for yesterday, but you know how that goes  )... so hopefully within the next day or two we'll start making those cuts. Thanks again guys!
__________________
Mike Jimenez & Sarah Hammonds
EAA Chapter 33 Prez & Soc Chair
Marion, IA USA
RV-10 In progress! (N165MJ reserved)
-Emp & Wings complete
-Panel wired up, working on Fuse & Finish
-Blog horribly outdated (sorry)
-Too many distractions, we will finish the plane someday!!!
http://mikeandsarahrv10.blogspot.com/
http://www.eaa33.org/
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12-13-2015, 08:41 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,189
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Beware!
Make SURE you mix up more epoxy than you will need, once you start applying it is no time to realize you need to mix more... 
__________________
Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88
RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
EFII System 32 - Done
297 HP Barrett Hung
ShowPlanes Cowl with Skybolts Fitted - Beautiful
Wiring...
Dues+ Paid 2019,...Thanks DR+
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12-16-2015, 06:51 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketman1988
Make SURE you mix up more epoxy than you will need, once you start applying it is no time to realize you need to mix more... 
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Caution..........better to have help to mix more as you need it. Mix too much and you can run out of pot life or worse, have the reaction go uncontrolled and self combust. Depends on your work space temps, whether you have fast or slow catalyst , etc. Just don't blindly mix up a bunch. Door bonding is a task where help is very useful.
__________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA
EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD
RV-10 40866
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12-16-2015, 08:16 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,189
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epoxy
I am using the West system and have had good luck mixing up to 6 - 8 ounces at a time with no runaways...shop temp 70..slow hardener.
That being said, help is a great thing as trying to mix more epoxy and cabo takes time which is eating in to the pot life of the first mix...and once you start applying it to the door surfaces, you are committed.
__________________
Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88
RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
EFII System 32 - Done
297 HP Barrett Hung
ShowPlanes Cowl with Skybolts Fitted - Beautiful
Wiring...
Dues+ Paid 2019,...Thanks DR+
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02-15-2018, 07:58 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 58
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I am about to start the door trimming, so I have some questions on this old thread...
Does the 1/8" clearance apply to both the perimeter of door as well as the cabin cover behind the door?
i.e. when door is flush with outside, there is no contact with cabin cover except where the inboard part of door bottoms out on the gutter lip of cabin cover.
For those that have rounded off the inside edge of door instead of bevel, what was done with the cabin cover behind the door?
Was the door edge just slightly radius to knock off the sharp edge or aggressively rounded off to clear the underlying cabin cover?
This is for the standard VANs door seals.
Thanks!
__________________
-Brendon
RV-10
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02-15-2018, 08:52 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hastings, MN
Posts: 582
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I did a 45 degree angle, and then did a nice roundover on the sharp 135 degree edge of the door to make it paint friendly.
__________________
Ed Kranz
RV-10 N829EC - Flying
First Flight: 8/29/15
KSGS - Fleming Field, South Saint Paul, Minnesota
YouTube.com/GoodPlaneLiving -- Build Timelapse and Travel Videos . . GoodPlaneLiving.com -- Build and Travel Blog
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