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  #1  
Old 11-25-2015, 09:26 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southeast
Posts: 663
Default Linear actuators for heat control

Considering going to the actuators vs cables for the heat control and an Avery oil cooler valve. Wondering if the acuators being fire wall forward is too harsh for them. At 170 dollars an actuator, failures could add up. Also, how they would hold up in the Florida heat and humidity. Oh, and just to keep the "cabin heat and Florida" jokes to a minimum, we travel and back pack in those places that acually get colder then 70
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2015, 09:45 PM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
 
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Location: Victoria, Canada
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What actuators are you considering?
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  #3  
Old 11-26-2015, 06:16 AM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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The only one Iam aware of is from TCW
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  #4  
Old 11-26-2015, 07:20 AM
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AlexPeterson AlexPeterson is online now
 
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Location: Maple Grove, MN
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http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=87720
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  #5  
Old 11-26-2015, 07:53 AM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,516
Default KISS

For all the reasons mentioned in the above linked thread,
I would not "pimp" the heater actuation mechanism.

Actuating the old fashion heater control cables is an exceedingly simple and
intuitive pilot action.

Spend the money for electrically actuating the overhead air inlets.
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  #6  
Old 11-26-2015, 08:03 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,189
Default Try this

http://store.firgelli.com/mobile/Category.aspx?id=1821

These are great and are exceptionally easy to control. You need not do something just because "that's the way it has always been done". I am using these actuators for the oil cooler butterfly and probably the heater valves. There are many others doing the same. Do the cables work? Yes. Do the actuators work? Yes. Pick one and run with it!
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  #7  
Old 11-26-2015, 09:07 AM
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DanH DanH is online now
 
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Consider how the actuator will be used. There are two kinds of applications. The first applies strain to the actuator when it is static, as well as when it is asked to move an attached device. The other app only loads the actuator when it is in motion. The static load case will probably be more prone to heat related problems related to plastic gearing or adhesives, in particular if the load is significant.

Someone noted that inability to close a heater door in the firewall could be a serious problem. Ahh, yep. I'd always recommend a stainless heater control valve, and if you want to use an actuator, keep it behind the firewall. An engine compartment fire is going to kill a hot-side actuator very quickly.

The oil cooler supply duct valve is non-critical.
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  #8  
Old 11-26-2015, 09:38 AM
greghale greghale is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: TULSA, OK
Posts: 62
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I've been using the TCW heat valve actuators on my RV10 with no problems.
The kit is complete with variable control.
http://www.tcwtech.com/control_valve_servo_kit.html

After having a locked elevator trim on my Rv8 I installed their safety trim also on th -10.

Greg...
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  #9  
Old 11-26-2015, 09:56 AM
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NovaBandit NovaBandit is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hastings, MN
Posts: 582
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I did a hybrid solution with both push/pulls and high torque RC servos. I ran the push/pulls to a location under the panel, where they are both out of the way, but in the event of a servo failure, I can reach them (barely).

The servos are powered by an RC BEC (basically a 12v to 6v transformer) and potentiometer knobs on the lower panel are wired to an Arduino that controls the position of the servo. It gives me very precise control of the servos. This is handy in the 10, because it's a very narrow margin between frosty toes, and feeling like your legs are ready to melt!

It also allowed me to put the heater control knob for the rear seat heat in reach of the rear passengers, on the back of the center console.

Here is what the servo bracket I made looks like. It's mounted on the bottom of the subpanel flange on the far right side:



Video of it hooked up to a servo tester:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1049158...77199384733234

That said, doing this did take a few iterations to get it working reliably, and I bet I have 30-40 hours invested in it. Push/pulls alone would have saved me 95% of that time and effort.
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  #10  
Old 11-26-2015, 08:11 PM
GTWreck GTWreck is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Locust Grove, GA
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I have the TCW servo on my oil cooler baffle valve on my RV10. Very happy with it so far. 100 hours on it so far and no troubles.
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