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11-24-2015, 05:07 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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And fabricate some strut locks to prevent a failing cylinder from allowing this to happen again.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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11-24-2015, 05:33 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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I found some of these type thingies on Amazon and use em:

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11-24-2015, 06:27 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Collierville, TN (M41)
Posts: 120
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I like the idea of making a targa strip to reinforce the overhang and cover most of the damage, but what exactly do you guys use? I am not that familiar with what material would work best. Do I need to be concerned about the targa strip and the acrylic expanding and contracting at different rates with temperature change?
Quote:
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Can I ask a question? You say 'Upon putting it in the hangar for the first time....' Did you have the canopy open when you were moving it? I'm paranoid about leaving my canopy up outside even when there is no wind. I never leave it up when moving it-the gas springs on mine are basically as strong as they were when they were new, but they aren't hydraulic.
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I was not moving the airplane at the time. It was already sitting in the hangar and I was sitting in the left seat checking out the avionics. It was cold out, which may have caused the struts to be weaker. I have ordered new struts and am building a canopy brace.
Thanks again for the info.
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11-24-2015, 08:50 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,009
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Targa Strip
Chuck:
While a few have made Targa strips using aluminum, the more common approach is using fiberglass and resin to create a buildup. Personally, I don't think aluminum would be a good choice in your case.
I believe there are instructions for this in the plans - contact Vans if you don't have them. Construction involves masking off the canopy fore and aft, using a non-binding material on the area to be bridged, and scuffing the plexi on the forward bubble so that the glass will adhere. Builders have used different thickness and layer numbers for buildup, but in this case, more may be better. The good news with fiberglass is that after the layup is done, you can fill and fair to the level of perfection that you're looking for. As you've not yet painted, the targa will match perfectly with the rest of your aircraft. Look at some of the RV slider models - you'll see fiberglass fairings all around the canopy. Fairly easy to do and get great looking results. In your case, it can cover the cracked plexi completely. You'll be fine. Remember to breath in and out. You'll learn some new skills and afterwards will be able to offer first hand advice for others that encounter similar problems. Just like the rest of us.
Good luck.
Terry, CFI
RV9A N323TP
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11-24-2015, 09:10 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Near Seattle , WA
Posts: 79
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Weld-on
As a suggestion, don't let the crack repair on your canopy be your first attempt at using Weld-on. Watch some youtube videos and practice on scrap first. It's possibly to make an almost invisible repair but it takes practice. The targa strip solution with Sitka bond for the broken piece are great solutions.
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11-24-2015, 09:54 AM
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Milano Italy
Posts: 78
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wild plane
Chuck
after cut my canopy under 48?C sunny day heating and breathing parts of it, that bad ugly inconvenient is my nightmare any time I open/close my tip-up 
....but....
if I were in your shoes (hoping never) , like my friend Pete say, I would try to repair it, the cracks aren't in your view so no problem scanning around and, I would never a targa strip because that would cover the great scar that seem so bad and wild plane
tell us about your fix
ciao
Lucio
__________________
Lucio
Milano Italy
Blue-7
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11-24-2015, 02:10 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Collierville, TN (M41)
Posts: 120
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Ordered two similar to this today from Amazon. They are called "Lift Support Clamps".
Thank you all for the detailed responses. I am much more relaxed now and looking forward to fixing this thing.

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11-24-2015, 03:48 PM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckGant
Ordered two similar to this today from Amazon. They are called "Lift Support Clamps".
Thank you all for the detailed responses. I am much more relaxed now and looking forward to fixing this thing.

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Or...you could just take a 6" length of 3/8" fuel hose, slit it length-wise, and slip it over the strut push rod for a nifty safety that will keep the canopy open. I carry a couple of them in the flight kit.
I would be concerned about that clamp-thingie marring the strut pushrod and ruining the seal.
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11-24-2015, 03:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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The clamp thingies I bought have brass screws. No damage after many many many clamps.
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11-26-2015, 08:32 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,932
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All of the talk about clamps, stronger struts, etc. are all sidestepping the root cause of the problem, that the canopy was left open while moving the aircraft. A cracked canopy is a painful (and expensive) way to learn that lesson.
When I bought my tip-up -6, one of the other RV owners on the field told me to never trust the pistons, and never leave the canopy open (a) unattended or (b) while moving the aircraft.
__________________
Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
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