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  #301  
Old 03-14-2015, 07:52 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,308
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I am in the process of replacing my fuel lines due to over flaring and over tightening, details here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=123689

I did add some "pip" pins to the canopy,
http://www.mcmaster.com/#98404A008
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  #302  
Old 03-14-2015, 07:56 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 6,336
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If those pins come out you might be flying an open cockpit RV
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  #303  
Old 03-25-2015, 06:08 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,308
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Whew, new fuel lines from the tanks to the gascolator complete. I used approximately 24 feet of 5052 to make roughly 6 feet of fuel lines. Leak check, ground run and an hour flight were leak free.
I wasn't able to appropriately bend the 5052 as a 1 piece line like I could the 3003 so I used a union and 2 pieced it. I went back and forth between the 5052 and the extra joint or 1 piece of 3003. I found 3 1/2 turns of my Rigid flaring tool gave me good consistent flares and 75 inch/lbs with a crows foot was about 3/4-1 flat after my "finger tight."
I wanted to follow the recommendations in this thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ght=Fuel+valvee
So I wouldn't have to cross the fuel lines but everything was already setup the plans way so...





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Last edited by crabandy : 03-25-2015 at 06:11 PM.
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  #304  
Old 03-25-2015, 06:13 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
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My homemade AOA port seemed to calibrate fine, but the AOA was flaky in the pattern. More playing needs to be done.
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  #305  
Old 04-17-2015, 10:10 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,308
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Sooooo instead of flying I've been working on the RV again, long story short the rings never seated and the excessive blow-by caused a sticky exhaust valve. More details in this thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...engine+stumble

In addition to the cylinder inspections, I've had several sets of hands and eyes on the bottom end. I originally wanted to pull it all apart but was advised to leave it together.

I was originally going to clean up cylinders/pistons, re-grind valves/seats (slightly pitted), check and ream valve guides if needed, replace rocker boss bushings, and put it back together with new rings and seals. After adding up cost i found I could purchase factory new lycoming steel nitrided cylinders with everything but rockers (even seals/gaskets) for about twice the cost of fixing my current channel chrome cylinders. I opted for the new cylinders, I've spent over 10 years working on it I'm ready to fly for a while. The new cylinders showed up last night in my driveway....





I had 1 intake leak on my first flight, I found the intake tube clamp was bowed. I filed it back flat, installed a new gasket and flew for 100 hours leak free. While cleaning up the intake tubes/clamps I wanted to see if the other clamps were as bowed as the one I filed. It was pretty easy to find the one I had previously filed, the other 3 looked like this when placed on my back riveting plate.


Although filing the clamp flat did "work," it didn't leave the proper amount of material for the flange of the intake tube. Luckily a college buddies dad needed a little project and since he has the tools and know-how he is re-machining my intake clamps for me. He sent me a teaser photo, man I wish I had all of his tools!


I also sent my rocker arms off to have new bushings installed. I'm meeting an A&P friend tomorrow to look over my new parts and hopefully install them on Monday.
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Last edited by crabandy : 04-17-2015 at 10:15 PM.
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  #306  
Old 04-19-2015, 04:44 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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My A&P suggested I leak check the valves before installation by pouring fuel (I used jet fuel) into the intake/exhaust chambers and make sure nothing leaked into the cylinders. As one would hopefully expect, no leaks. You can see the fuel in the right port in the pic.


No leaks on the inside, everything is still shiny and pretty.


More general cleanup on the push-rods and tubes etc.
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  #307  
Old 04-23-2015, 04:30 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
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Cylinders torqued per the Lycoming Overhaul Manual and Service Instruction 1029D.

When I did a baffle repair several months ago I noticed the lower cooling fins were eating into the lower baffles. I made "pads" out of the Van's black baffle material and glued them to the lower baffle wraps. There was more wear than I expected on the black baffle material on the lower wraps, I'm going to copy DanH's work from here (post 39):

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...fle+mod&page=4

As expected my composite workmanship still has a ways to go, on a good note there was no mess to speak of. The front cylinders have always been cooler than the rear cylinders, I extended the baffle wrap a little higher on the front cylinders.



Between the heads I used short pieces of the Ultra Black infused 9 Oz fiberglass, than I ran a bead of sealant between the 2 pieces from underneath. I also used Ultra Black along the edges of the wraps that I could get to.



I have the oil cooler mounted behind #4, I made the wrap a little longer slightly overlying the top of the cylinder. I wanted to see if this would help keep the air in the cylinder fins instead of exiting through the cooler, at least that's my intent.



On the backside of #3 I made a small piece of wrap that started slightly below the minimal cooling fin depth area. Previously had a washer between the cylinder and the baffling, I may add a small bump to increase airflow.

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  #308  
Old 04-30-2015, 11:47 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
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The shop that overhauled my engine previously ground the numbers off the pushrods and made "custom" shorter pushrods.......


Thanks to McDoogle for the borrowed ride, I was able to buzz around and pick up the proper pushrods. An A&P friend walked me through the procedure for checking the dry tappet clearance, quite a handful by yourself!


After I got the airplane back together it took me an hour and a half to put tools away and clean up to ensure I didn't leave any tools in or parts off. I rolled it outside and did a test run. I can't believe it started on the first blade, everything ran up normal and shut it back down in 1 minute.


I gave it a twice over and cowled it up and pushed it most of the way to the runway. I reviewed my flight plan and emergency procedures and possible scenarios, ready as we'll ever be! My spinner gap looks great!

Startup and runup were normal, full power on the runway showed gauges green and a normal static RPM of 2080. No issues on a 45 min flight besides high CHT's(400-450) at full power. Very short descent and taxi in to the hangar for de-cowling. Everything looked good, a little leftover oil from assembly but not oil on the usual spots from the breather. She's all buttoned up and ready for the next flight at 16.5 GPH...I'm just happy to be flying again!
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Last edited by crabandy : 04-30-2015 at 11:50 PM.
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  #309  
Old 05-01-2015, 06:19 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Location: 08A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabandy View Post
As expected my composite workmanship still has a ways to go, on a good note there was no mess to speak of. The front cylinders have always been cooler than the rear cylinders, I extended the baffle wrap a little higher on the front cylinders.

Remember, the forward side of #2 has the same "no fin depth" issue as the back side of #3.

Quote:
Between the heads I used short pieces of the Ultra Black infused 9 Oz fiberglass, than I ran a bead of sealant between the 2 pieces from underneath. I also used Ultra Black along the edges of the wraps that I could get to.

Don't forget to seal between the outside of the glass wrap and the inside of the aluminum wrap.
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  #310  
Old 11-16-2015, 03:20 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,308
Default Cowling Inlet ReShaping

I recently sent my prop back to Catto, I've been watching it closely since hitting a rubber cone at OSH. I found that the scratches in the prop from the cone haven't grown lengthwise but one scratch started to open up slightly when I twisted the blade with my hand.
While the plane is down why not turn a small project into a big one......

I would like to re-make/redesign my stock air inlets for:
-better cooling
-less cooling air leakage
-easier cowl removal and installation
-retain the same basic shape of the Van's cowl inlets

Step 1: Order plenum from BillL

Step 2: Remake the cowl inlets into a divergent shape instead of converging and a female notch to hold a rubber intake diffuser.

Ste 3: Make rubber Inlet diffusers to fit baffling and plenum and the cowling inlets with a male notch to hold the front in place.

The stock inlets converge and seem to choke off airflow, the opening gets smaller before it gets bigger. The outboard portion of the outlet seems to be angled the most.









The inboard portion isn't as bad, and it has to go around the ring gear.



Looks like Its best to cut the entire flange off the inlet, glue in foam-sand to desired shape with a female notch for the diffuser to fit in?
Best way to make the notch so it is repeatable on the rubber boot diffuser?
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Last edited by crabandy : 11-16-2015 at 03:24 PM.
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