Tip: Drilling out Rivets

[kinger]

Here you go.....

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sp...7&tab=Pictures

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sp...l?keyword=0619

[spaceflightmeow]

I think I found my problem: using Boelube on the bit after every few holes really makes the bit too slippery! A clean bit sticks to the 470 heads without slipping and I have no issues with drilling the 470s out without a tool now. Just need to keep the bit clean and dry, no lube.

A Cobalt bit on thin sheet metal basically doesn't need lube anyway. I am now using the stuff only for drilling into thick plates or steel.

[Ottertrack]

After removing the head of the rivet, whenever possible, I use my rivet squeezer to force the shank out. For instance, if it is an AD4 size rivet, I use a #30 male dimpler in my squeezer, but do not use the female counterpart. this forces the bad rivet out with minimal force. If the rivet shank gets stuck in the female side of the squeezer, I use an old drill bit to tap it out. A big advantage using this method is that I do not have to pound the rivet out, thus avoiding the possibility of damage.

[thelynns]

The original posters first step is to

1. Make sure you expose the rivet head (especially csk) remove paint (I use a scotch brite wheel on a high speed grinder).

I just removed a few hundred rivets on a RV6 tail cone I'm rebuilding and I did not do this step? The previous project owner did use this step on the top forward skin to remove some avionics. This forward top skin will not be replaced and will be re-riveted in place But now, it has all these deep surface areas over the rivets removed and looks and feels very unsightly. Why remove the paint over the rivet being removed. I've skipped that step removing the tailcone skins and it's worked out OK? Am I missing something?

[wirejock]

No. The only reason is to break the edge where the rivet is going to come off so it doesn't take extra paint with it. There's a tool for it I think.

[Aero_Octaveus]

My experience is that I have done unnecessary damage when trying to punch out the rivet shank once the manufactured head is drilled off. More so when dealing with thicker material like when dealing with spar doublers. At the advice of a friend at the EAA chapter meeting, I made myself various little punch guides.

I had ordered 1" dia steel round bar and cut a few pieces 1" long.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LYatZ8ANFN...0/IMG_1976.JPG

I then drilled a 15/64" hole in the center of one. Others I drilled off center. The 15/64" hole will allow the shop head of a AD4-X and AD5-X rivet to fit inside. When you are punch a rivet shank out by placing this handy little tool over the rivet, you support the area around it and you do not bend any aluminum.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n1iXwTFerC...0/IMG_1977.JPG

Drilling the 15/64" half way through the round bar will allow a friend to hold it tight as you punch without driving the punch into their fingers. (Ask me how I know!) This has saved me so much headaches in removing rivets

P.S. Use gorrilla tape on top of the steel guide so you don't marr the aluminum you are working on.

[wirejock]

Very useful. Great minds.

[David Paule]

When drilling out -3 rivets, I'll start the hole with a #50 drill, then drill it out with the #40.

Likewise, when removing -4 rivets, I'll start with a #40 bit and then go to the #30 bit.

This gives me greater control and reduces the likelihood of ruining the hole.

Dave

[David Paule]

When you're removing rivets, stick a piece of duct tape over the shop head and that'll capture the debris. It won't roll into some hard-to-get-to part of the airframe.



If that photo doesn't show up try this.

Dave

[amaris]

I'm starting SB-14 and just need to drill out the 8 rivets on the flange connecting to the spar. I can't get a drill in there and the angle drill still hits the rib which won't allow me to drill straight down into the rivet.

Thanks for the help!