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10-23-2015, 10:24 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Kirkland
Posts: 11
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Tight quarter riveting suggestion
I just dug out my practice wing kit and have proceeded to make every easily avoided mistake...but I guess that is what this is for.
My question concerns the best way to rivet the two rivets on the ribs that are just forward of the trailing edge. I have various squeezer yokes and bucking bars but it is not obvious to me how to do this.
I am assuming someone has figured this out or may be just missing something. Any help would be appreciated. I would have posted a picture but I am not exactly sure how to do that on this site of it is allowed.
Thanks
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10-23-2015, 11:19 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 873
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Here are some things you can try:
1. A squeezer with a thin, no-hole yoke.
2. A very small offset bucking bar.
3. Backriveting using a thin piece of steel against the shop head. The steel has to be thin enough to fit between the rib flanges. You also need a steel backriveting plate to go against the manufactured head.
4. Use an MK-319-BS pulled rivet in the last hole.
__________________
Mark
RV-12iS Fuselage
RV-9A Project: Sold
VAF donation made for 2020
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10-24-2015, 07:55 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Tight space
Quote:
Originally Posted by rv9builder
Here are some things you can try:
1. A squeezer with a thin, no-hole yoke.
2. A very small offset bucking bar.
3. Backriveting using a thin piece of steel against the shop head. The steel has to be thin enough to fit between the rib flanges. You also need a steel backriveting plate to go against the manufactured head.
4. Use an MK-319-BS pulled rivet in the last hole.
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#4 was my choice. Once the plane is painted, the hole in the rivet will be filled and you're the only one who knows. But...
One option is to lay the surface on a back rivet plate. Use a solid flat blade screwdriver. Lay it on top of the shop head and use your gun to drive the screwdriver as close as you can get to the rivet.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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10-25-2015, 03:33 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 427
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Axe blade sharp edge as a bucking bar - worked for me. I may have also used slightly shortened rivets too. The mass of blade gave it sufficient inertia to set these with ease.
__________________
Doug Gray
RV-6 completed, flying since July 2010
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10-26-2015, 06:17 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Park Ridge, NJ
Posts: 637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv9builder
Here are some things you can try:
3. Backriveting using a thin piece of steel against the shop head. The steel has to be thin enough to fit between the rib flanges. You also need a steel backriveting plate to go against the manufactured head.
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Mark -
Can you explain this? I also worked on my sample project over the weekend and had the same issue. The Van's instructions tell you to build a small steel plate for this purpose. Why do you need a steel backriveting plate to go against the manufactured head? Can't you just hit it with the rivet gun directly?
Thanks
Charlie
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10-26-2015, 08:37 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion, IL
Posts: 93
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rivet tool
I ground off the teeth of a Vice Grip then riveted the handle so it could not lock. Grind the head to slide inside. Works great and it will come in handy for other tight areas.
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10-26-2015, 03:05 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cderk
Mark -
Can you explain this? I also worked on my sample project over the weekend and had the same issue. The Van's instructions tell you to build a small steel plate for this purpose. Why do you need a steel backriveting plate to go against the manufactured head? Can't you just hit it with the rivet gun directly?
Thanks
Charlie
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Hi Charlie,
I built my 9A control surfaces long before Van's introduced the practice kit, so I haven't seen the instructions. If they suggest making a small steel plate and riveting the normal way, give it a try. It will probably work!
The reason I used a back-rivet plate is because the piece of steel I had didn't have much mass to it. I didn't think I would be able to hold it firmly enough with one hand to set the rivet, while I used my other hand to hold the rivet gun against the manufactured head. Since I had a back-rivet plate, I decided to flip the control surface upside down and use back riveting.
I used the technique Larry describes in post #3, except instead of using a flat-blade screwdriver, I used a thin piece of steel. As Larry says, lay the screwdriver (or piece of steel) on top of the shop head. Then use the rivet gun to drive the screwdriver (or piece of steel). You want to place the rivet gun as close as possible to the rivet.
I was successful with this technique on some of my control surfaces. On others, I felt it was better to just use an MK-319-BS pop rivet.
I hope this helps.
__________________
Mark
RV-12iS Fuselage
RV-9A Project: Sold
VAF donation made for 2020
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10-26-2015, 07:14 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Park Ridge, NJ
Posts: 637
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Thanks Mark -
That was helpful. I did a little more searching and actually found an old thread that had a link to an EAA video that shows what I believe you are talking about. If not, it looks like this will work as well.
http://link.brightcove.com/services/...tid=5337092001
Thanks again,
Charlie
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10-26-2015, 08:41 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 873
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Hi Charlie,
Yes, the indirect riveting technique shown in the video is exactly what I did. The video shows it much more clearly than my written explanation!
__________________
Mark
RV-12iS Fuselage
RV-9A Project: Sold
VAF donation made for 2020
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10-26-2015, 09:38 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
Posts: 1,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug
Axe blade sharp edge as a bucking bar - worked for me. I may have also used slightly shortened rivets too. The mass of blade gave it sufficient inertia to set these with ease.
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Never thought of this myself, but seems like a great "alternate" bucking bar option. Didn't know they made axes out of tungsten... ;-)
__________________
Bill Bencze
N430WB RV-7 #74152 @ KHAF, tip-up; IO-360-M1B; Hartzell CS. !! Phase 1 !!
2357 hrs over 8.5 years to get to flying. Log at: http://rv7.wbencze.com
VAF 2020 donation happily made
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