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10-19-2015, 09:40 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Advise
You got all the good advise.
Find a builder nearby with both and try them.
I second the issues with cheap manual squeezers.
I love my pneumatic and use it first. Learn to feather the trigged on all your pneumatics.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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10-19-2015, 01:22 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 669
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Wound up with both an Avery hand squeezer and a ????? brand pneumatic. Used both frequently depending on the task.
As others have suggested, care with the pneumatic - it can make a lot of scrap metal pretty quickly.
Dan
__________________
RV7A (N7101) - Flying 10/2008
CFI- SE/ME/Inst
A&P
KC2ZEL
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10-19-2015, 02:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
Posts: 1,065
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IMHO a pneumatic squeezer is a must - but, as pointed out, learn to use it. I started with a hand squeezer then moved up - I wrecked the first part I tried to build.
However, once you get the hang, it's a godsend. Start with a slight under-squeeze and then close up the jaws. Once you get the right setting, it's just perfect rivet after perfect rivet. And then there's the dimpling......... And -4 rivets can be really tough with a hand squeezer.
Having said that, you need options. I seem to remember using 6 different riveting techniques on one assembly!
__________________
Paul
Mercy Air, White River FAWV
RV-10 ZU-IIZ - "Zeus"
Building Bearhawk Bravo - RV-18 not available
2019 Donation Made
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10-20-2015, 08:50 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Boone, Iowa
Posts: 342
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Dimpling
Something to consider that has not yet been mentioned...
Half the dimples in the aircraft are done with a squeezer, nearly the entire substructure. So if you are not building a QB kit, I always recommend the pneumatic squeezer.
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10-20-2015, 03:24 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 601
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Thank you
Oh Boy. Thanks for all the input. Looks like this is a very personal preference. I am actually surprised so many said they prefer the manual. Wish I could go to the store and try them all out...
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12-13-2015, 10:59 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Apollo Beach, FL
Posts: 10
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A lot of good info on squeezers. But not much on yoke size. If I were to buy a Cleveland Main Squeeze and a Tatco (for the tight places?) what sizes should I get?
Thanks in advance.
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12-13-2015, 02:40 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Yokes
Quote:
Originally Posted by B. Hoover
A lot of good info on squeezers. But not much on yoke size. If I were to buy a Cleveland Main Squeeze and a Tatco (for the tight places?) what sizes should I get?
Thanks in advance.
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If it's a financial choice, get the 4" deep yoke.
If you can swing several, get the standard, 4", longeron and no hole.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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