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  #1  
Old 10-11-2015, 04:03 PM
jdmunzell jdmunzell is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 419
Default Machine C/S vs. Dimpling fuel tank baffle flange

Okay, so I missed this on the plans.. I am about to close up the right fuel tank and when originally dimpling the wing tank skin, I wound up dimpling all the holes in the skin, including the spanwise holes that mate up to the rear baffle flange. DOH!! The plans show that the skin should be countersunk then mated to the baffle flange. Dimpling the baffle flange is going to mean having to shave down the female die in order to fit up against the main baffle while dimpling the flange. I can do that or just C/S the baffle flange in order to accept the already dimpled tank skin. Both surfaces are of the same thickness and I believe this to be key here.

What would guys do here? Dimple the baffle flange or countersink it??

Jeff
-8 wings...STILL UGH!
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2015, 04:21 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Dimple

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmunzell View Post
Okay, so I missed this on the plans.. I am about to close up the right fuel tank and when originally dimpling the wing tank skin, I wound up dimpling all the holes in the skin, including the spanwise holes that mate up to the rear baffle flange. DOH!! The plans show that the skin should be countersunk then mated to the baffle flange. Dimpling the baffle flange is going to mean having to shave down the female die in order to fit up against the main baffle while dimpling the flange. I can do that or just C/S the baffle flange in order to accept the already dimpled tank skin. Both surfaces are of the same thickness and I believe this to be key here.

What would guys do here? Dimple the baffle flange or countersink it??

Jeff
-8 wings...STILL UGH!
Do a search. I think you'll find this is a common error and some actually prefer to build tanks that way. Dimpled baffle.
Always ask Vans to be sure.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
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I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2015, 04:51 PM
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AltonD AltonD is offline
 
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Location: Dothan, Alabama
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Default

If I were to build my tanks today, I would dimple.
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2015, 05:15 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 1,055
Default

The hard part dimpled is the squeegee of the sealant as you slide the baffle on. The dimples will make an interference as the baffle is slid down and extra care would be needed to not have a sealant gap in that process. But a number of people dimpled anyway. I think that is the main thing.

Second thing at least in the RV14 plans is to leave every 10th hole or so unsunk and to do it after the sealant dries. I think this is to keep locator holes in proper position when first placed. Might be some play in the part if you don't do this - but I'm just thinking that is why.
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  #5  
Old 10-11-2015, 06:25 PM
jdmunzell jdmunzell is offline
 
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Location: Hamilton, VA
Posts: 419
Default

It does seem to me that dimpling the baffle to fit the already dimpled skin would make for a stronger joint especially in sheer strength.. I'll check with Vans in the morning just the same but I do think I'll dimple.
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-8 wings, finishing up
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  #6  
Old 10-11-2015, 06:51 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Sealant

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDA_BTR View Post
The hard part dimpled is the squeegee of the sealant as you slide the baffle on. The dimples will make an interference as the baffle is slid down and extra care would be needed to not have a sealant gap in that process. But a number of people dimpled anyway. I think that is the main thing.

Second thing at least in the RV14 plans is to leave every 10th hole or so unsunk and to do it after the sealant dries. I think this is to keep locator holes in proper position when first placed. Might be some play in the part if you don't do this - but I'm just thinking that is why.
Just be careful as Dudley mentions above.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #7  
Old 10-12-2015, 02:22 AM
rwtalbot rwtalbot is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 251
Default

I would dimple the skins and baffle. I followed the plans on my first set, but over CS is a common error. If the rivets work they can leak later. IMO you are better to dimple and work a little harder to seal them.

In general I try to dimple anywhere I can reasonably do so. Less working rivets.
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