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  #11  
Old 09-08-2015, 11:15 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A1AVIATON47 View Post
P.S SOUNDS LIKE CARB. NEED ANS O/H OR AT LEAST TO SHOP CK FLOAT LEVEL, ENGINE GETTING TO MUCH FUEL WILL TURN OIL BLACK ,MAY HAVE INTERNAL LEAK , HOW DO THE PLUGS LOOK, ARE THEY REAL BLACK , OR OIL FOULED
I overhauled the carb and float is brand new and set exactly to spec. Plugs look good. Tops are dry and have a nice grey cast to them. I have a fuel flow gauge, so have a pretty good idea what is getting to the carb. I have the richer of the two carbs for this engine and I mistakenly drilled the jet based upon the experience others have had. I don't mind having to take off with the knob 1/2" back. I only get 2200 static and don't believe that I need more than the 12.5 GPH that this setting gives me.

Larry
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  #12  
Old 09-09-2015, 05:58 AM
Pat Stewart Pat Stewart is offline
 
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Location: Granbury Texas
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Larry,

218 on the oil temp, 12.5 GPS on takeoff fuel flow, carbon chunks. I am assuming this is an 0360?, if so that is just too many problems. Oil temps should be below 200 or at least below 205. Take off fuel flow should be around 17gph, what are your CHT's on take off climb.

If this were my engine it would be on the ground until these issues were corrected.
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Last edited by Pat Stewart : 09-09-2015 at 06:26 AM.
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  #13  
Old 09-09-2015, 08:26 AM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Stewart View Post
Larry,

218 on the oil temp, 12.5 GPS on takeoff fuel flow, carbon chunks. I am assuming this is an 0360?, if so that is just too many problems. Oil temps should be below 200 or at least below 205. Take off fuel flow should be around 17gph, what are your CHT's on take off climb.

If this were my engine it would be on the ground until these issues were corrected.
If I recall correctly, the oil temp green band noted on almost all oil temp gauges I've seen is generally between 180-220+. Especially during break in, I wouldn't be too worried about 218.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 09-09-2015 at 11:39 AM.
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  #14  
Old 09-09-2015, 10:19 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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I am not worried about 218. It was the first time that hot and it was 95* outside. If it keeps creeping up, I will investigate, but temps have usually been around 200 with high ambients and this seems normal for break in. I know that the extra blow by increase oil temps, so expect this to go down a bit after rings seat.

Any ideas on the carbon? I have found a few articles that seemed to indicate that it was not problematic. I probably won't worry too much unless I see it after the rings seat. I will also run it a bit richer to help keep the temps down.

Larry
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  #15  
Old 09-09-2015, 11:04 AM
TS Flightlines TS Flightlines is offline
 
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is this a field overhaul, or a refresh from a engine supplier?
tom
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  #16  
Old 09-09-2015, 11:15 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by TS Flightlines View Post
is this a field overhaul, or a refresh from a engine supplier?
tom
This is a field overhaul. The cylinder were done by harisson and case tested/machined by ECI and it got new pistons.

I have done some more research and it seems that excessive heat can cause carbon deposits to form in the oil and this was consistent with my thoughts. I am wondering if this excessive heat is common with break in. I did some more research on CamGaurd and it seems that one of it's properties is to help reduce carbon deposits. Is there any harm in adding that during the break-in.

Larry
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  #17  
Old 09-09-2015, 11:37 AM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Who cleaned the oil sump? Intake tubes? Accessory case? Are the chunks hard? Cut one with a razor, is it old sealant or gasket?
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  #18  
Old 09-09-2015, 11:52 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
This is a field overhaul. The cylinder were done by harisson and case tested/machined by ECI and it got new pistons.

I have done some more research and it seems that excessive heat can cause carbon deposits to form in the oil and this was consistent with my thoughts. I am wondering if this excessive heat is common with break in. I did some more research on CamGaurd and it seems that one of it's properties is to help reduce carbon deposits. Is there any harm in adding that during the break-in.

Larry
I agree but also think you may need to push the engine a little harder during break-in.

I believe you should keep it higher than 75% as long as cylinder and oil temps remain in the green zone. They should come down once the rings seat. At that point, oil consumption, CHT and oil temps should stabilize in the lower normal range.
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  #19  
Old 09-09-2015, 11:57 AM
rhill rhill is offline
 
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Lycoming wants you to run straight weight no additives for the first 50hr.Then a multi weight after the rings & brake-in are complete.Ring alignment,Glazing issues are what I suspect.If the issues we have already covered caused damage,it's already done.My vote is to fly another 5-10 hours and see what you have.I'd be inclined to pull all four jugs match weight for the pistons and the wrist pins,replace all 8 end caps with New 60828 caps,as well as the one non matching wrist pin or get three more of the superior one piece pin/caps SL13444-1.So all four match in part and weight and are new pieces.It's too late to play with rod bushings as removing the rods would require replacing the $$$bolts&nuts.Please check the pin/bushing tolerance for spec. Replace the rings with new Lycoming or Superior and hone the cylinder bores.It's not what you want to hear and lot of work but its what needs to be done IMHO.
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  #20  
Old 09-09-2015, 12:57 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhill View Post
Lycoming wants you to run straight weight no additives for the first 50hr.Then a multi weight after the rings & brake-in are complete.Ring alignment,Glazing issues are what I suspect.If the issues we have already covered caused damage,it's already done.My vote is to fly another 5-10 hours and see what you have.I'd be inclined to pull all four jugs match weight for the pistons and the wrist pins,replace all 8 end caps with New 60828 caps,as well as the one non matching wrist pin or get three more of the superior one piece pin/caps SL13444-1.So all four match in part and weight and are new pieces.It's too late to play with rod bushings as removing the rods would require replacing the $$$bolts&nuts.Please check the pin/bushing tolerance for spec. Replace the rings with new Lycoming or Superior and hone the cylinder bores.It's not what you want to hear and lot of work but its what needs to be done IMHO.
RHill
Thanks for your input here. I have been a bit afraid that glazing could be an issue here. I agree with putting more time on the engine to see what happens. How do I determine if I have a glazing issue? Is it just a matter of oil consumption not stabilizing? Does a compression test show glazing? Can I see it with a borescope?

The rod bushings were replaced during the overhaul and the rods were balanced as well.

Larry
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