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  #31  
Old 09-03-2015, 11:28 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gyoung View Post
Be sure to RTFM. It's a different beast from the matched hole kits. If you don't have PP skins then you build the structure first, then lay the skins on the structure and trace the structure on the skin with a sharpie. You use the outline to pattern the holes. Use a straight edge to align the holes in the center of the rib flange tracing and a rivet fan to space them. Once you're sure all the holes will hit the flange where you want them, then you can drill the holes. Mark a centerline on the structure flanges and when you put the skin back on the structure the centerline should show up in the holes you drilled. That's a perfect world. The reality is that even straight ribs will wander when the skin is clamped down. So you need a pick or other way to get things realigned. Once you can see the centerline in all the skin holes do you drill thru them thru the ribs and cleco.

Interpreting the tracings and getting straight, evenly spaced rivet lines is part of the art form. If you have PP skins that is taken care of but you need to tweak the structure spacing so the centerlines will fall where the holes are.
Since you are going to drill the skin twice, make the initial hole only 1/16, and then drill it out to #41 when the rib centerline mark is visible through the hole as stated above.

One other option some builders used was a large mylar sheet as a template. Cut it to the same size as the skin, lay it on top of the structure and simply mark the hole locations.
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  #32  
Old 09-03-2015, 12:55 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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A third option (already mentioned previously in this thread)... which is probably the easiest... is to predrill all of the rivet hole layout in the substructure.
Then put the skins in place and match drill from the inside. You can use pieces of plywood cut from the shipping crates to makes stiffeners for the tail cone bulkheads to keep them straight while drilling. Use a hole saw to add holes around the perimeter for clamps. Using this process assures that you will never come up short on edge distance.
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  #33  
Old 09-03-2015, 01:23 PM
Far North Texan Far North Texan is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
A third option (already mentioned previously in this thread)... which is probably the easiest... is to predrill all of the rivet hole layout in the substructure.
Then put the skins in place and match drill from the inside. You can use pieces of plywood cut from the shipping crates to makes stiffeners for the tail cone bulkheads to keep them straight while drilling. Use a hole saw to add holes around the perimeter for clamps. Using this process assures that you will never come up short on edge distance.
its been a long time, but I think this is how we did it. back drilling works nice.
a few tools that I was going to suggest that you may not have that you will either need or at least find valuable. Spring loaded center punch, fan spacing tool, and 90 degree angle drill.

Another good idea is to put a piece of 3/4" particle board as a table top for at least one work bench. then drill thru the part you are working with and into the wood and cleco to hold the part.
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