|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

08-31-2015, 12:29 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Stilwell, KS
Posts: 1,096
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JanRV6UK
My best advice would be to not blindly believe all the dimensions on the blueprints ... measure one way .. the back measure to see if the dimension make sense ...
|
+1 for that! The -3 is the same way.
__________________
Katie Bosman
RV-3B sold, but flying!
Next project: ???
Builders gonna build...
|

08-31-2015, 05:28 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 384
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprucemoose
This is very much true. It's also a great example of this mis-use of terminology. The "true pre-punched kits" are known as matched hole. Sorry but I'm a stickler for proper terminology.
|
Thanks for the correction on the terminology in my statement. I feel I should help you also with the terminology in your signature. The correct term for "Tail" is "Empennage" 
|

08-31-2015, 07:27 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: MKE
Posts: 1,519
|
|
Touch?! Not bad for a nose wheel guy! (Sez this empennage dragger)
__________________
Jeff Point
RV-6, RLU-1 built & flying
Tech Counselor, Flight Advisor & President, EAA Chapter 18
Milwaukee
|

08-31-2015, 08:44 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 384
|
|
I'm pretty proud of what I have sticking out front!! 
|

08-31-2015, 10:14 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 386
|
|
New rv
You guys are great, I just learned I'm building an emp dragger, I think this may catch on!
__________________
US ARMY VETERAN (75th & 1st 509th Airborne)
CFI, CFI-I, MEI, MEI-I, A&P
RV Transitional trainer
RV9A - FLYING
RV3 ?a? - FLYING 200+MPH
Onex - Building
Q200- Rebuild in progress
Wheeler Express - Sold
Grumman AA1-C - Sold
Grumman AA5 - Sold
|

09-01-2015, 07:48 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,653
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mycool
Hi guys,
I just purchased a slow build fuse, any words of wisdom or advice on starting a 6? I have lots of experience building an rv8, rv7, and rv9.
|
The big difference for you will be using a jig as opposed to the jig-less building possible with the CNC pre-punched kits. The jig itself does not have to be perfectly accurate, it just has to be STABLE. You can shim parts into the jig for accuracy but it all goes out the window if the jig warps as you build. So use seasoned wood and check measurements often; re-shim if needed.
Other than that, I remember the bulkheads were pretty floppy and it was handy to screw them to some particle board to stiffen them up. Cut the particle board just under the size of the bulkheads and it will help to keep them from twisting as you strap the skins in place. I also found it handier to pre-drill the bulkhead flanges and then drill the skins from the inside rather than trying to find the bulkhead by measurement from the outside.
And you probably know this from your previous experience but plan your wiring runs before skinning the framework. Trying to drill through bulkheads next to a skin can be a real PITA. The plans don't mention anything about wiring, so it's easy to forget about it until the structure is already complete.
__________________
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
|

09-01-2015, 10:12 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 19
|
|
RV-6 resources
Since you are building an older kit, you need to go to the older sources to find answers. The Matronics email list has lots of great information in the archives from notable people like Gary Sobeck, Rosie, and Sam Buchannan.
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/index.htm
Lots of other resources here as well, with the supplemental instructions from Frank Justice being the most helpful.
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/index.html
(towards the bottom of the page)
A little searching and you can find some great builder websites as well.
All of these resources and many more have gotten my very slow build RV-6 to the point in may just fly this year.
Kevin
RV-6
|

09-01-2015, 09:19 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 386
|
|
Info galore
Thank you all for the info.
The links will take time (well spent) preparing for the build. I also ordered the tool from fly boys. I can't wait to use it, I see so many uses!
__________________
US ARMY VETERAN (75th & 1st 509th Airborne)
CFI, CFI-I, MEI, MEI-I, A&P
RV Transitional trainer
RV9A - FLYING
RV3 ?a? - FLYING 200+MPH
Onex - Building
Q200- Rebuild in progress
Wheeler Express - Sold
Grumman AA1-C - Sold
Grumman AA5 - Sold
|

09-02-2015, 06:40 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 386
|
|
Technique
Is it a good idea to do all the skin layout and drilling before hand?
I have not yet read through the manual, I'm actually waiting for it but do I drill the skins undersize?
__________________
US ARMY VETERAN (75th & 1st 509th Airborne)
CFI, CFI-I, MEI, MEI-I, A&P
RV Transitional trainer
RV9A - FLYING
RV3 ?a? - FLYING 200+MPH
Onex - Building
Q200- Rebuild in progress
Wheeler Express - Sold
Grumman AA1-C - Sold
Grumman AA5 - Sold
|

09-02-2015, 07:42 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Spring, TX
Posts: 233
|
|
Be sure to RTFM. It's a different beast from the matched hole kits. If you don't have PP skins then you build the structure first, then lay the skins on the structure and trace the structure on the skin with a sharpie. You use the outline to pattern the holes. Use a straight edge to align the holes in the center of the rib flange tracing and a rivet fan to space them. Once you're sure all the holes will hit the flange where you want them, then you can drill the holes. Mark a centerline on the structure flanges and when you put the skin back on the structure the centerline should show up in the holes you drilled. That's a perfect world. The reality is that even straight ribs will wander when the skin is clamped down. So you need a pick or other way to get things realigned. Once you can see the centerline in all the skin holes do you drill thru them thru the ribs and cleco.
Interpreting the tracings and getting straight, evenly spaced rivet lines is part of the art form. If you have PP skins that is taken care of but you need to tweak the structure spacing so the centerlines will fall where the holes are.
__________________
Greg
1950 Navion - flying
RV-6 - 18 yrs and 99.5% done
1940 Rearwin Cloudster project next
4 L-2 projects on deck
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:31 AM.
|