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  #21  
Old 08-31-2015, 12:29 PM
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KatieB KatieB is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Stilwell, KS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanRV6UK View Post

My best advice would be to not blindly believe all the dimensions on the blueprints ... measure one way .. the back measure to see if the dimension make sense ...
+1 for that! The -3 is the same way.
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  #22  
Old 08-31-2015, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprucemoose View Post
This is very much true. It's also a great example of this mis-use of terminology. The "true pre-punched kits" are known as matched hole. Sorry but I'm a stickler for proper terminology.
Thanks for the correction on the terminology in my statement. I feel I should help you also with the terminology in your signature. The correct term for "Tail" is "Empennage"
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  #23  
Old 08-31-2015, 07:27 PM
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sprucemoose sprucemoose is offline
 
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Location: MKE
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Touch?! Not bad for a nose wheel guy! (Sez this empennage dragger)
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RV-6, RLU-1 built & flying
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Milwaukee
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  #24  
Old 08-31-2015, 08:44 PM
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I'm pretty proud of what I have sticking out front!!
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  #25  
Old 08-31-2015, 10:14 PM
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Mycool Mycool is offline
 
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Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 386
Default New rv

You guys are great, I just learned I'm building an emp dragger, I think this may catch on!
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CFI, CFI-I, MEI, MEI-I, A&P

RV Transitional trainer
RV9A - FLYING
RV3 ?a? - FLYING 200+MPH
Onex - Building
Q200- Rebuild in progress
Wheeler Express - Sold
Grumman AA1-C - Sold
Grumman AA5 - Sold
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  #26  
Old 09-01-2015, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mycool View Post
Hi guys,

I just purchased a slow build fuse, any words of wisdom or advice on starting a 6? I have lots of experience building an rv8, rv7, and rv9.
The big difference for you will be using a jig as opposed to the jig-less building possible with the CNC pre-punched kits. The jig itself does not have to be perfectly accurate, it just has to be STABLE. You can shim parts into the jig for accuracy but it all goes out the window if the jig warps as you build. So use seasoned wood and check measurements often; re-shim if needed.

Other than that, I remember the bulkheads were pretty floppy and it was handy to screw them to some particle board to stiffen them up. Cut the particle board just under the size of the bulkheads and it will help to keep them from twisting as you strap the skins in place. I also found it handier to pre-drill the bulkhead flanges and then drill the skins from the inside rather than trying to find the bulkhead by measurement from the outside.

And you probably know this from your previous experience but plan your wiring runs before skinning the framework. Trying to drill through bulkheads next to a skin can be a real PITA. The plans don't mention anything about wiring, so it's easy to forget about it until the structure is already complete.
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RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
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  #27  
Old 09-01-2015, 10:12 AM
rvkcflyer rvkcflyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 19
Default RV-6 resources

Since you are building an older kit, you need to go to the older sources to find answers. The Matronics email list has lots of great information in the archives from notable people like Gary Sobeck, Rosie, and Sam Buchannan.
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/index.htm

Lots of other resources here as well, with the supplemental instructions from Frank Justice being the most helpful.

http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/index.html
(towards the bottom of the page)

A little searching and you can find some great builder websites as well.

All of these resources and many more have gotten my very slow build RV-6 to the point in may just fly this year.

Kevin
RV-6
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  #28  
Old 09-01-2015, 09:19 PM
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Mycool Mycool is offline
 
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Location: West Hills, CA
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Default Info galore

Thank you all for the info.

The links will take time (well spent) preparing for the build. I also ordered the tool from fly boys. I can't wait to use it, I see so many uses!
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US ARMY VETERAN (75th & 1st 509th Airborne)

CFI, CFI-I, MEI, MEI-I, A&P

RV Transitional trainer
RV9A - FLYING
RV3 ?a? - FLYING 200+MPH
Onex - Building
Q200- Rebuild in progress
Wheeler Express - Sold
Grumman AA1-C - Sold
Grumman AA5 - Sold
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  #29  
Old 09-02-2015, 06:40 PM
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Mycool Mycool is offline
 
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Location: West Hills, CA
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Default Technique

Is it a good idea to do all the skin layout and drilling before hand?
I have not yet read through the manual, I'm actually waiting for it but do I drill the skins undersize?
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US ARMY VETERAN (75th & 1st 509th Airborne)

CFI, CFI-I, MEI, MEI-I, A&P

RV Transitional trainer
RV9A - FLYING
RV3 ?a? - FLYING 200+MPH
Onex - Building
Q200- Rebuild in progress
Wheeler Express - Sold
Grumman AA1-C - Sold
Grumman AA5 - Sold
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  #30  
Old 09-02-2015, 07:42 PM
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gyoung gyoung is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Spring, TX
Posts: 233
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Be sure to RTFM. It's a different beast from the matched hole kits. If you don't have PP skins then you build the structure first, then lay the skins on the structure and trace the structure on the skin with a sharpie. You use the outline to pattern the holes. Use a straight edge to align the holes in the center of the rib flange tracing and a rivet fan to space them. Once you're sure all the holes will hit the flange where you want them, then you can drill the holes. Mark a centerline on the structure flanges and when you put the skin back on the structure the centerline should show up in the holes you drilled. That's a perfect world. The reality is that even straight ribs will wander when the skin is clamped down. So you need a pick or other way to get things realigned. Once you can see the centerline in all the skin holes do you drill thru them thru the ribs and cleco.

Interpreting the tracings and getting straight, evenly spaced rivet lines is part of the art form. If you have PP skins that is taken care of but you need to tweak the structure spacing so the centerlines will fall where the holes are.
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1950 Navion - flying
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