|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

08-03-2015, 07:37 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 45
|
|
How to remove fuel servo studs?
Need to remove 4 studs from the sump and they turn out to be very stubborn.
I have tried using 2 nuts and even 3 nuts but no luck, tried to drill a hole thru to pin one of the nuts but it only ripped the stud. I am little scared and puzzled on what to do next. I have not tried to use heat, concerned it will leave discoloration or something...
Any ideas or special techniques out there?

__________________
RV-7A Standard kit
Empenage - Finished
Wings - Finished
Fuselage - almost done
Panel and engine done.
On to fiberglass.
VAF Donation 2020
|

08-03-2015, 07:59 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: State of Bliss
Posts: 396
|
|
BreakFree
Those studs look to hold the fuel servo. So, that area is not a good idea for heat as residual fumes could make a dogs-breakfast out of it.
Try some breakfree (or similar product), let sit for a period of time, and give it another whirl.
__________________
Ch?z King
|

08-03-2015, 08:08 AM
|
 |
VAF Moderator / Line Boy
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,256
|
|
Find a friend with a Snap-On stud puller. Not cheap, but they cost WAY less than a sump. Or...become the guy in your circle of friends who OWNS the Snap-On puller and you'll make even more friends..... 
__________________
Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
|

08-03-2015, 08:17 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight
Find a friend with a Snap-On stud puller. Not cheap, but they cost WAY less than a sump. Or...become the guy in your circle of friends who OWNS the Snap-On puller and you'll make even more friends..... 
|
+1 - and Heat from a heat gun would not hurt at all, no open flames! That is basically a zero clearance fit and with heat, the sump (Al) will expand more than the steel (Fe). The Snap-ON tool will give much more thread engagement to avoid issues from the double nut method.
I've never had much luck with penetrants in this situation.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
|

08-03-2015, 09:13 AM
|
 |
Senior Curmudgeon
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,420
|
|
Heat gun is fine, also when you do get it to move, don't force it to unscrew all at once----if it is still fighting you, rock back and forth and use some penetrating oil as needed------I like Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
I use a star washer between the two nuts when removing a stud------jam the nuts together really good, then turn the top one to remove the stud.
Good luck, it can be done.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
|

08-03-2015, 09:30 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 768
|
|
Stud removal
Heat the sump up to at least max allowable oil temp with a heat gun. Like Mike said use the top nut as the primary place to apply unscrewing pressure. You may need to use a 2nd wrench on bottom nut to apply a small amount of tightening force to keep the nuts clamped together while unscrewing with the top. If still no luck you can tap on studs in vertical direction with a hammer (brass is good) and then try spraying the stud with something cold like contact cleaner.
Don B
RV 9 Rebuild in Progress
|

08-03-2015, 10:18 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 821
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL
+1 - and Heat from a heat gun would not hurt at all, no open flames! That is basically a zero clearance fit and with heat, the sump (Al) will expand more than the steel (Fe). The Snap-ON tool will give much more thread engagement to avoid issues from the double nut method.
I've never had much luck with penetrants in this situation.
|
FYI, I am pretty sure the sump is Magnesium for the Lyc 320's and 360's not AL, but the principle is the same. Just more important no open flames for heating.
__________________
Dan Morris
Frederick, MD
PA28-140
Hph 304CZ
RV6 built and sold
N199EC RV6A flying
Learn the facts. "Democracy dies in darkness"
|

08-03-2015, 01:52 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 45
|
|
Snap-On stud puller
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight
Find a friend with a Snap-On stud puller. Not cheap, but they cost WAY less than a sump. Or...become the guy in your circle of friends who OWNS the Snap-On puller and you'll make even more friends..... 
|
Snap-On stud puller is coming this way... I will be the guy with "friends" 
Looking at the youtube video, looks like it should work like a charm.
Thanks guys.
__________________
RV-7A Standard kit
Empenage - Finished
Wings - Finished
Fuselage - almost done
Panel and engine done.
On to fiberglass.
VAF Donation 2020
|

08-03-2015, 01:52 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,393
|
|
Sumps
Most of the more common 320 and 360 sumps are aluminum. A few odd balls are magnesium. I believe some of the Piper Arrows are magnesium sump. Lycoming IO 360 with aft mount injector???
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:59 AM.
|