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  #1  
Old 08-03-2015, 07:37 AM
AK-Models AK-Models is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Iowa City, IA
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Default How to remove fuel servo studs?

Need to remove 4 studs from the sump and they turn out to be very stubborn.
I have tried using 2 nuts and even 3 nuts but no luck, tried to drill a hole thru to pin one of the nuts but it only ripped the stud. I am little scared and puzzled on what to do next. I have not tried to use heat, concerned it will leave discoloration or something...

Any ideas or special techniques out there?

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  #2  
Old 08-03-2015, 07:59 AM
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chazking chazking is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Default BreakFree

Those studs look to hold the fuel servo. So, that area is not a good idea for heat as residual fumes could make a dogs-breakfast out of it.

Try some breakfree (or similar product), let sit for a period of time, and give it another whirl.
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  #3  
Old 08-03-2015, 08:08 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Default

Find a friend with a Snap-On stud puller. Not cheap, but they cost WAY less than a sump. Or...become the guy in your circle of friends who OWNS the Snap-On puller and you'll make even more friends.....
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  #4  
Old 08-03-2015, 08:17 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
Find a friend with a Snap-On stud puller. Not cheap, but they cost WAY less than a sump. Or...become the guy in your circle of friends who OWNS the Snap-On puller and you'll make even more friends.....
+1 - and Heat from a heat gun would not hurt at all, no open flames! That is basically a zero clearance fit and with heat, the sump (Al) will expand more than the steel (Fe). The Snap-ON tool will give much more thread engagement to avoid issues from the double nut method.

I've never had much luck with penetrants in this situation.
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  #5  
Old 08-03-2015, 09:13 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Default

Heat gun is fine, also when you do get it to move, don't force it to unscrew all at once----if it is still fighting you, rock back and forth and use some penetrating oil as needed------I like Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

I use a star washer between the two nuts when removing a stud------jam the nuts together really good, then turn the top one to remove the stud.

Good luck, it can be done.
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  #6  
Old 08-03-2015, 09:30 AM
cajunwings cajunwings is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 768
Default Stud removal

Heat the sump up to at least max allowable oil temp with a heat gun. Like Mike said use the top nut as the primary place to apply unscrewing pressure. You may need to use a 2nd wrench on bottom nut to apply a small amount of tightening force to keep the nuts clamped together while unscrewing with the top. If still no luck you can tap on studs in vertical direction with a hammer (brass is good) and then try spraying the stud with something cold like contact cleaner.

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  #7  
Old 08-03-2015, 10:18 AM
RVDan RVDan is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frederick, MD
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
+1 - and Heat from a heat gun would not hurt at all, no open flames! That is basically a zero clearance fit and with heat, the sump (Al) will expand more than the steel (Fe). The Snap-ON tool will give much more thread engagement to avoid issues from the double nut method.

I've never had much luck with penetrants in this situation.
FYI, I am pretty sure the sump is Magnesium for the Lyc 320's and 360's not AL, but the principle is the same. Just more important no open flames for heating.
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  #8  
Old 08-03-2015, 01:52 PM
AK-Models AK-Models is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 45
Default Snap-On stud puller

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
Find a friend with a Snap-On stud puller. Not cheap, but they cost WAY less than a sump. Or...become the guy in your circle of friends who OWNS the Snap-On puller and you'll make even more friends.....
Snap-On stud puller is coming this way... I will be the guy with "friends"
Looking at the youtube video, looks like it should work like a charm.

Thanks guys.
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Panel and engine done.
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  #9  
Old 08-03-2015, 01:52 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
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Default Sumps

Most of the more common 320 and 360 sumps are aluminum. A few odd balls are magnesium. I believe some of the Piper Arrows are magnesium sump. Lycoming IO 360 with aft mount injector???
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