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07-14-2015, 07:31 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 49
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Spar Tank Platenut attach hole deburring
Do I need to debur the platenut side of the rivet holes for the tank attach platenuts? There is only 240 of them. 
I duburred the bottom of the screw holes. The tops will be countersunk and then coated using the alodine pen like I just did for the tops of the platenut rivet holes.

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Mike Whaley #83456
Anaheim Hills, CA
RV-8 slow build
Last edited by FlyBoy8 : 07-14-2015 at 07:34 PM.
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07-14-2015, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Debur
If they were drilled, there's probably a bur that should be removed.
240 is nothing. Wait til you debur the 2,000 holes in the wings and ribs! 
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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07-14-2015, 07:52 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 49
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Ok, then the next question is do i need to hit them with the alodine pen after deburring since that will expose bare alum again? When I alodined the tops it ran thru the holes enough to coat the entire hole, not just the countersink.
Is it OK to just run the alodine pen along the bottom of the spar flange or should it try to just hit the debur areas?
Not trying to get out of deburring. I can reach the holes pretty good with the tool extension although it is at a slight angle instead of square to the hole.
Thank you for the help BTW.
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Mike Whaley #83456
Anaheim Hills, CA
RV-8 slow build
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07-16-2015, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Seattle (Edmonds) and Iowa
Posts: 200
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Won't hurt to alodine the flange if the deburring exposes aluminum. Could just hit it with a rattle can and a cardboard mask. Would take about 15 seconds. Course that might not match the anodizing in case folks are looking at it. Guess not many will see it with the wing closed. 
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Dave Grimmer
RV8 N46LG for Lynda
Flying
Edmonds WA
paid 2019
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07-17-2015, 07:23 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
Posts: 900
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Yep it dose..
We sat down one winter when there was not good weather to do anything and counted or estimated rivets. The figure we came up with was about 15,000 Number 3s and number 4s in an RV-8A. That's just by the plans and just rivets you put in. It dose not change the need to address each side of every hole you encounter by the number of the holes you find. One will be putting a lot of rivets in an RV. I think it is worth it to get them all in a well prepared hole. You will feel more comfortable thinking about stress cracks once you start flying the bird. Hope this helps. Yours as always, R.E.A. III #80888
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07-18-2015, 02:59 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 49
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I used my angle drill adapter with the 1/4" bit to debur the rivet holes. A few rotations with very light pressure did the trick and it was quick. Its taking a lot longer to alodine pen all the holes then it did to debur.
Thanks to all for the tips.
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Mike Whaley #83456
Anaheim Hills, CA
RV-8 slow build
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07-19-2015, 07:29 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 49
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I swear my CS cutter has a mind of its own. I spent an hour studying posts on how deep to CS the tank attach screw holes, and tested on a piece of angle until I was satisfied. Yet, the first hole I CS was at least .01 larger than I wanted. It measures .375 (.385 with my crappy plastic micrometer) with my ruler so I guess it is in spec, but it looks an awful lot like the too deep example shown in the rvator. What do you guys think? The rest of the holes measure about .360.

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Mike Whaley #83456
Anaheim Hills, CA
RV-8 slow build
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07-23-2015, 10:40 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 14
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I had a lot of the same questions as to the proper CS depth on these #8 screws as the manual was a little concise on this important step. I used the test dimple method(which I don't recommend) and later asked Vans for some guidance and they forwarded me a page of the RV10/14 manual which covered the specs for these #8 & #6 screw countersinks. I would get a copy of this before proceeding as it takes most of the guesswork out of this step.Goodluck
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07-24-2015, 12:18 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Englefield Green UK
Posts: 73
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I'll soon be at this step since my wing kit arrived yesterday. Any chance you could post a pdf of the manual page Van's sent? Would be much appreciated and it sounds like there are a few of us who need help. Thanks.
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Andy @ EGLM/EGTB
RV-6 (Shared, Bought Flying)
Building RV-7 #74424
Riveting fuselage
Donated 2019
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07-24-2015, 07:10 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: KEUL
Posts: 222
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Just my $0.02
Dealing with potential issues on what I would call critical parts (load bearing, spars, hinges,...) I always go to Van's for advice.
A bad dimple in a skin is very different than a over sized hole in a hinge.
Cheers
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Dan
RV-7 Slow Build - Sold
KEUL
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