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Vertical Stabilizer Skin question

BOHICA

Well Known Member
So it looks like I dimpled more holes than I needed to on the VS. Trying to find out if these are ok? Or if I need to order another skin?:mad:

Currently I am looking ahead in the plans to see if this is going to be an issue.

Location at arrows below.

50867590812_681061546d_c.jpg
 
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It is not going to be much of an issue. Those holes will have to get dimpled anyway but after you fit the fiberglass cap. When it is dimpled prior, it will not help with the fitting as well or as easy.
Did you dimple them with #40 or #30?
I suggest to leave them as they are and fit your cap. If it is with number 40, you will need to re-dimple them with #30 but do it after all the fit is complete.
 
I dimpled with #40. Sounds like it salvageable. Just going to suck. But no new skin needed.
 
This is where Van's suggestion to tape over the non dimpled holes really comes into play. Look over the drawings really well and tape over the holes that you are to skip before you start working the material.
 
I dimpled with #40. Sounds like it salvageable. Just going to suck. But no new skin needed.

Mistakes will happen and this is really of no consequence so I would not let it bother me other than looking it as a reminder to pay attention.

When you are in that stage, just fit the cap and if it was not perfect, then you can work on the fiberglass to make it perfect, more forgiving than the metal parts
 
This is where Van's suggestion to tape over the non dimpled holes really comes into play. Look over the drawings really well and tape over the holes that you are to skip before you start working the material.

I think the plans could use a little tweaking on this one as they say in the note on the page:

"NOTE: Tape over holes that do not receive rivets at this time to avoid accidentally dimpling or riveting these hole locations. See Figures 1 and 2 for locations."

in Fig 1 & 2 they point out in the drawing every where to leave open. Except they do not point at the top holes to not dimple or to leave open. So those didn't get tapped. Only the second squeeze did I stop and start to question why to dimple those so I stopped.

So warning to other builders tape the top four holes as well as the ones marked "LEAVE OPEN."
 
VS cap

If memory serves, the 14 VS is the same as the 7. Those holes end up drilled for #30 pulled rivets. The dimple won't matter. Most of it will be drilled away. Build on.
 
Smiley

Maybe. I woul ask Vans first. They might suggest a rivet either side.
The smiley can be filled later unless you plan to polish.
I prefer a swivel set for that reason but many don't like them.
 
Managed to not get rivet gun straight. I am Guessing this would be a new skin.

50883322552_59ab699e4d_z.jpg

If for every smiley we were going to replace a skin, few of us ever finish a RV.

White this is more pronounced then a typical smiley, I highly doubt they would suggest a rivet on each side or replace the skin. Like Larry has said, a swivel head helps much avoiding this but also requires two hands as the head moves if not held.
 
As long as it doesn't look like the skin has been thinned at the location of the dent, I don't think the skin needs to be replaced.

I am a huge proponent of the swivel head rivet set and have recommended it for years.
It can be especially valuable to rooky builders for avoiding damage to skins. This comes in handy when less experience help has to be used for two person riveting. Then the less experienced help can be put of the rivet gun rather than the bucking bar, were a mistake can cause major damage.

The swivel rivet set works just as well riveting solo as any other flush rivet set. The rubber cup provides enough friction to keep the set from walking as long as you don't get the gun severely misaligned.

To work well they do require a small modification..... the rubber on the edge of the cup (where it contacts the skin) is too stiff which requires a lot of pressure to keep the set flush to the skin. The edge of the rubber needs to be chamfered at 45 degrees, enough to reduce the thickness to about 50%. Then the swivel set works great.
 
Swivel set

Mine built two airplanes so it's like an old pair of shoes. Not sure what I will do if the rubber fails. I have no problem using it solo with either hand but I do require helpers to use two hands for reasons mentioned.
 
As long as it doesn't look like the skin has been thinned at the location of the dent, I don't think the skin needs to be replaced.

I am a huge proponent of the swivel head rivet set and have recommended it for years.
It can be especially valuable to rooky builders for avoiding damage to skins. This comes in handy when less experience help has to be used for two person riveting. Then the less experienced help can be put of the rivet gun rather than the bucking bar, were a mistake can cause major damage.

The swivel rivet set works just as well riveting solo as any other flush rivet set. The rubber cup provides enough friction to keep the set from walking as long as you don't get the gun severely misaligned.

To work well they do require a small modification..... the rubber on the edge of the cup (where it contacts the skin) is too stiff which requires a lot of pressure to keep the set flush to the skin. The edge of the rubber needs to be chamfered at 45 degrees, enough to reduce the thickness to about 50%. Then the swivel set works great.

Got the swivel head and modified as you said worked great. Thanks
 
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