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longer pop rivet needed ?

andrew phillips

Well Known Member
I am ready to close the to skin over the panel area. Along the longeron and especially under the roll bar mount I have lots of wires. I have to rivet the top skin through the side skin and longeron. It is impossible to get a bucking bar in some of these locations. I am willing to use pop rivets but I think the grip length on the 3/32 is too short (.125). Any suggestions?
 
Cherry

I am ready to close the to skin over the panel area. Along the longeron and especially under the roll bar mount I have lots of wires. I have to rivet the top skin through the side skin and longeron. It is impossible to get a bucking bar in some of these locations...... Any suggestions?
I just did that a few days ago on the -8 project. Like my 6A, those holes I deemed impossible or impractical to access with a bucking bar, I reamed to #30 and slightly machine countersunk the dimples and inserted CR3212-4 Cherry rivets. It is VERY important to use a grip gage to determine the correct length Cherry rivet. A single Cherry rivet is pricey and range from $0.45 to $1.23 each for -3 through -8. The photo shows the use of a combination of solid rivets and Cherry rivets. Since the CR3212 stem breaks off flush with the surface, its profile blends in well enough with solid rivets and after prep and paint becomes virtually indistinguishable from the rest.

 
A few questions on using Cherry Rivets

Trying to address the same issue raised by the previous posters in this thread. Specifically which rivets to use for the rivets that go through the longeron.

Rick mentioned using CR3212 which required countersinking the already dimples skin.

I also found a CCR264SS rivet (at Wicks) that is a 3/32 rivet. Will this rivet fit in a standard 3/32 dimple and is this an good option?

Since I don't have a Cherrymax grip gauge handy, is there a solid rivet cross reference? The rivets I need are to replace a -6 solid rivet.
 
Don't use CCR264SS blind rivets

The rivets above are not structural and are only good for attaching nutplates and other non structural things. Don't use them on the skins or other stressed parts of the airplane.

Bruce Reynolds
RV-6A
 
bucking bar

I made a special bucking bar from 1/4" or 3/8" steel plate stock. It was approx 6" long x 2" wide. Shaped kinda like the state of Utah. Worked great on the rivets under the slider roll bar / longeron / center section uprights.

Steve
 
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