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Show us your panel !!!!!

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Evolution of the panel

It's amazing to watch the evolution of the typical panel from page 1 to page 76!
 
Poor Man's Panel

http://i48.tinypic.com/5wds7t.jpg

Here's the low cost/simple panel for my 6A. The Aera 560 and King xpndr were Ebay purchases. The panel mounted radio-intercom is an MGL V6. Fuel guages and digital tach are backups for Trutrak EFIS SG/Autopilot (fuel guages require a dip switch). Planning to replace the altimeter with a Trutrak PFD and to add a panel mount Garmin above the xpndr after phase I. I think I have about 8K in it so far (including wiring kit but not servos). Haven't flown it yet so any comments would be appreciated.
 
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First power to the panel. Lots of work still to do but VPX and Dynon have made it relatively easy for someone without a bunch of electrical experience.

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Almost there!!

Getting close to the finished line with my panel!! That was a LOT of wiring! The camera flash made things look harsh... sorry. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result. The GTN750 feeds data to the Pilot EFIS with a AFS GPS as backup if ever left to backup power (backup battery powers pilot EFIS only). - Mark

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MGL 6

Nice panel Mark. I used an MGL V6 radio and had trouble transmitting with the engine running... too much distortion. Turning the mic gain all the way down solved it. I also turned off the side tone. I'm told that radio doesn't like ANR headsets either.

That's a beautiful BMW in the background. Looks like one of the old 500 CC models. How did you clean the engine so well? John
 
MGL V6

Mark, my radio works fine. You just have to get the settings right. The man who helped me with it has an authentic FW 190 he just finished restoring. He used the MGL radio because he needed something very small. You can imagine the noise in his cockpit with that big radial, and he reports that it's working well for him also, but he had to switch to passive headsets. ANR headsets may work for you.

I'm sure you know BMW was originally in the aircraft business, and the emblem represents a spinning prop, so I think you're OK on the post. Mine is a 1974 R90/6 that has evolved into an R100S. A friend bought it years ago. When it got to the "basket case" stage he gave it to me. Rebuilding that bike was great practice for working on a Lycoming. Doesn't look near as good as yours so no pictures. Thanks for the tip on cleaning the engine. I'll try it.
 
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Everything Works!

There's still a bunch of prettying up to do but everything electric works as it should even in the garage. Full Skyview everything with PAR100EX audio panel and GNS430W updated for ADS-B out. Thanks to everyone that answered my stupid questions for the past 5 months. Also, my avionics mentor was right about 99% of the answers being in the manuals, especially the back pages. Never did find a good source with lots of pictures for the basic wiring skills needed for small airplane avionics, though.

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Finally I get to post here!

Not complete but the first trial fit for the boxes of stuff I got today. Thanks SteinAir for all the help and Hasty Awards in Ottawa for making my labels.
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I plan on flying the first year with a handheld and then possibly add a TruTrak Gemini/WAAS GPS/Transponder/Autopilot/ADSB. Perhaps I'll just buy Avgas instead, we will see after she's flyin!
 
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Panel getting close to finished

We have been working hard to get this project in the air. After 7 years of building and 7 grand children during the process, (they come first), we are getting closer. Finally got everything in the panel and behind the panel that "needed" to be there. Many thanks to everyone at Advanced Flight Systems and SteinAir for ALLLLL their assistance, as well as all the help at KCUB (lots of RVers here. All the smoke stayed in the boxes and RC and Moonpie are very happy. We still have the labels to do on the panel and other items, but here is a photo of what we have now.

HkmcYodMJkYkZgF0890VVpu4BmhHy-AeslUdU601eOI


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(if there is a moderator that would like to make this image show up here, please do)
 
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Beautiful panel Robert. Almost exactly what I'm going for in my 9A in another year. It almost looks too empty without the circuit breakers crowding things up, doesn't it? :)
 
Thanks, Scott

Thank you Scott. The only thing not in the photo is the switches on the left side. Master, mag switches, start button, avionics master and a/p master. DC plug and seat heater switches are on each side and a panel PTT. I will try to get a shot of that as well.
 

Wow, that's for a -7? I would've guessed a -10. Drop dead gorgeous, it is. It also raises a question in my pea brain. Is there any provision to isolate the aluminum from the carbon fiber on these panels? It may be of little or no consequence, just influence from some of my background where Al + C was always regarded as a battery. Small, to be true, but current nontheless. I would be cautious to avoid using it while immersed in salt water. :D
 
This is not a problem as long as you do not try and turn it into a U boat or submarine.
Many of the new aircraft use carbon and aluminum together. As long as it does not see salt water and seal or isolate with primer or paint things are good.

Aluminum and stainless have the same issue when in water.

(Galvanic corrosion requires an electrolyte. You can have a dry bin of aluminum and stainless fasteners... no big deal. Immerse them in water, you have an electrolyte and corrosion will occur. This is why galvanic corrosion is a big deal for marine applications. When possible, keep water away from metal. When not possible, try to use the same metal. .)

Geoff
 
Wow, that's for a -7? I would've guessed a -10. Drop dead gorgeous, it is. It also raises a question in my pea brain. Is there any provision to isolate the aluminum from the carbon fiber on these panels? It may be of little or no consequence, just influence from some of my background where Al + C was always regarded as a battery. Small, to be true, but current nontheless. I would be cautious to avoid using it while immersed in salt water. :D

If there is salt water contract we've got bigger problems!

The aluminum is going to be painted, carbon will be clear coated.
 
One suggestion, I would put more space between the "Area 51 Overflight Cloaking" and "Request Ramp Check" buttons because you could make a call for the ramp check and accidently turn on the cloaking device. Of course, this means you would have wait a long time for the ramp check.

 
compass?

Lots of beautiful panels shown here! Some have mag compasses, some do not. Two local builders tell me local DAR's are requiring mag compasses. I would think my Skyview mag compass would satisfy that, others say "no". I don't want to add a second compass unless I must to satisfy the inspection process. Any experiences regarding this?
Thanks, Jim :confused:
(dues paid 2013)
 
Lots of beautiful panels shown here! Some have mag compasses, some do not. Two local builders tell me local DAR's are requiring mag compasses. I would think my Skyview mag compass would satisfy that, others say "no". I don't want to add a second compass unless I must to satisfy the inspection process. Any experiences regarding this?
Thanks, Jim :confused:
(dues paid 2013)

Jim, I'll be interested in the answer you get. I've got a lighted whiskey compass in my flying 9a and have never used it other than to compare it to my Dynon. When I'm flying a heading, I use the Dynon as it's stable, easy to read, and reliable. While I'm sure I could get a reasonably close heading following the bouncing whiskey compass, it would sure take more attention and thought.

Now having expressed this position, I actually like having the whiskey compass. If the Dynon ever died, I'd have the whiskey compass and an air speed indicator, and my eyes looking out the canopy for sure and probably a back up GPS. I expect I could get where I was going (VFR) with these instruments and a sectional.

I don't have THE answer but I'm pretty sure Mel will weigh in with a definitive answer...well, as definitive as answers to FAR questions ever get.<g>

Edit: Actually Mel has answered the question already. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=42518&highlight=magnetic+instrument Take a look at the second post. Mel says the EFIS complies with the requirement.
 
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First teaser pic from Stein!

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If there is salt water contract we've got bigger problems!

The aluminum is going to be painted, carbon will be clear coated.

Pat,

Just saw this...wow is all I can say. Well that, and you are now officially not allowed to park next to me on the ramp...you're way too purty! :D

As for the salt water and galvanic corrosion...I guess there goes my plan to throw salt water over your bow, to make you feel like you're still in the Navy...since you'll be an ANG and UAL weeinie soon! :p

Looks really nice...really nice!

Cheers,
Bob
 
Derek
You seem to have 2 autopilots there (Trio pro pilot and Garmin 305 if I am seeing correctly).
How is that set up, and how will it be used?
John

The GMC305 is not an autopilot. It is simply a dedicated control pad for the autopilot/flight director controls of the G3X system.

It can be used with either the Garmin built in autopilot/servos or an third party autopilot like the Trio or GX Pilot. In either case, it is an optional component.

It also enables some features that are not present in the standard configuration.
 
4X-ORV panel in works

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This is the CAD (Check-it-out Aided Design) stage of my panel. Left side digital (MGL Voyager EFIS) and switches, right side the Classic 6-pack and mostly circuit breakers. Center reserved for com, nav, transponder. Flaps control, fuel selector and quadrant on the between-the-seats console. Any remarks?:)
 
We typically make those out of .080" and indeed that is what is on the panel pictured. However, if someone wants them different we can do that as well. We've done panels in everything from .020" to .250". We also try to keep the standard .063" in stock as well.

Cheers,
Stein
 
My Panel

I humbly submit my finished panel for my 7. Simple day/night VFR. Hand cut and rattle can painted. Plenty of room to grow.... I tried Brothers label machine and didn't like the fact that I didn't have enough choices for fonts and sizes. I moved on to water slide labels designed in MS word and even though I bordered every label, they still came out looking like decals and did not look painted on. I was just about to order the Decal Pro kit and I read about the plastic modelers using Micro Set and Micro Sol setting agents on their decals. I ordered both (12.00 plus overnight shipping) and after a little practice I was really pleased. The chemicals seem to melt the label on without damaging the paint. Actually, the Micro Sol melts the decal too much and I wound up using only the Micro Set. The decals look painted on, even with the light shining from all directions! I know I will probably adding to the panel later and I wanted labels I could change if needed.
 
There's a good reason it looks familiar!

Thanks Brian for all the postings you had on building your panel! Great work! The best thing I did besides following your postings was to use front panel express to cut/mill/engrave/paint my panel!

Thanks again, your fan! Gary
 
We typically make those out of .080" and indeed that is what is on the panel pictured. However, if someone wants them different we can do that as well. We've done panels in everything from .020" to .250". We also try to keep the standard .063" in stock as well.

Cheers,
Stein

Stein
I will get in touch soon to get those g3x wires
 
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