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Removing Magneto Studs?

Ironflight

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
Hi folks - quick question for the experienced mechanics here. I need to replace the left magneto studs on the Valkyrie (swapping to _P-mags, and taking out the impulse coupler spacer - so need shorter studs). I've put doubled nuts on them and cranked, - they just aren't coming. I'm figuring heat is the answer, but I don't have a lot of experience with that - are we talking butane-torch heat? On the case? And how much?

Non-heat answers are even better - I haven't put gorilla strength on them yet - they are so long, they almost seem to want to twist....if the answer is "use more force!" we can try that too....

Of to lunch - let's see how many answers I get!
 
Find a mechanic around that has a Snap On CG-500 stud extractor set. They are the best tools to use to remove studs.
 
Stud removing tool

Paul,
I used Jay Pratt's stud remove removing tool yesterday replacing the short studs in the vacuum drive on the RV-1. It is the tool you need to do the job.
 
A good rap with a plastic mallet ,heat in the form of a pin point torch on the stud not the case will heat the area, the cam lock style stud remove-ll tool is the best way to go or a small pipe wrench will work in a pinch.PM me if you need the snap-on tool.
Bob
 
Second on the butane torch and tiny pipe wrench if the nuts won't do it (unless you can get the stud removal tool in there)
 
I?ve used a normal heat gun, heat it properly and if needed you can buy a Freeze spray and spray the stud, it should come off easy... You dont want a open flame behind the engine while it is installed in the A/C, even if using a heat gun make sure you have a fire ext in close range :eek:

/Dennis
 
If you don't want to reuse the studs - clean the stud thoroughly with MEK. Take two nuts and clean throughouly with MEK. Put a couple of drops of super glue on the stud down to the last thread (assuming you have unthreaded shank available). Torque the 1st down to the end and torque the 2nd nut onto the first while holding the first and super glue this in place. Let dry a few minutes and remove using the first nut. Done if a dozen times.
 
stud

I've removed broken cylinder studs from IO 540 with some good vice grips-tightened really tight. Some of the studs were only sticking out 1/8". No heat. Heat is fine if you don't get carrried away. If you don't intend to reuse the studs use vice grips. Vice grips as tight as you can get them using two hands with gloves on. Once they start to turn you can probably switch to double nuts.
 
spacers?

What about putting some steel spacers on to make up the distance the impulse adapter took. McMaster Carr should have some (92145A128).
 
Don't Do It Ethel............ :D

Had the same issue on our Mattituck IO-360 when we swapped out from LASAR to P-Mag.

Those studs will snap off.

Measure the new distance allowing for the loss of the impulse coupler, get some thick wall 4130 tubing, washer either side, crank it down - works a treat.

This was passed by the great and the good at our end and has been absolutely fine for over 50 hours without any problems.
 
Thanks for all the quick input guys!

This is clearly not as simple as it might (at first) seem. I chatted with Mahlon at Mattituck, and he suggested vice grips and a little heat (if a double nut doesn't work). Unfortunately, getting vice grips on the studs with the engine IN THE MOUNT is really not an option (would work great on a test stand). I was curious if there is Loc-Tite on these things, and he told me that the accessory cases come to them with studs already installed, so they don't really have any control over that. What's really neat is that I found the correct "new" studs in a bag that came with Junior's engine, anbd I even have spares!

I took a quick look at spacers - won't rule it out, but there might be an interference problem with the P-Mag - at least in the same orientation that they are installed on our -3. I'll look again when I have time. In the meantime, Louise is going up to Jay's to work on the RV-1 on Saturday, so she can bring his stud extractor tool home. the right tool for the right job. I guess I'll entertain myself with installing power wiring and plug wires in the meantime.

Always good to have threads like this in the archives!

Paul
 
We wondered about the spacers causing an interference.

By carefully moving the P-Mag around, we found an orientation that worked well with the tubing, after all it is only an extended stud if you figure.

You do have to play around when fitting the P-Mag - engage it on the studs, then get the washer, tube, washer and nut on and then slide it down - kind of build it as it engages.

I tried to get some snaps for another guy but it is well buried, but I can assure you, that is how we did it.

I think they do have some kind of thread lock because we put a fearful amount of pressure on ours before we gave up.

Ours was a new TMX engine, so it is a good comparison.
 
RE: CG500 stud extractor

I used the CG500 stud extractor on my ECi engine to change studs for Slicks to P-Mags. Worked !!!!!!!!!!!!! But it was sure expensive but not as expensive or as frustrating as a broken stud on the case!!!!!!!!!!:eek:
 
Hi Paul et al...

Did this very recently, without the advice of this thread, on a 4yr / 500hr XP-IO-360.

Double nut did not work, but double nut + mole grips (presume UK speak for vice grips) did.

When we first fitted the P-Mag, we did not have the correct studs. I devised some spacers, using 2 large AN nuts, and the larger standard AL pipe slightly drilled out, each side. It worked well as a stud, but did confine the P-Mag to essentially one orientation only. NB You 'build' the spacer into 1 unit which makes life easier - see:
stud1.jpg

stud2.jpg

stud3.jpg


HTH?

Andy
RV-8 G-HILZ
RV-3B G-HILI very slow build
RV8tors
 
Check new studs carefuly

Paul, I did this recently and double nuts worked on original Lycoming installed studs. When you replace the studs note that the new ones are larger dia on the side going into the case. This makes a tight fit as they go in while your mag nuts turn freely on the other end.
 
Thanks for the pictures Andy - I was playing with the idea of spacers yesterday for a little while, and have to decide on the compromise between mounting the P-Mag in only one position versus having to change the studs. On advantage to NOT changing the studs, of course, is the ability to drop in some Slicks at a future date out in the middle of nowhere (if I needed to).

Ah well, I am waiting for the stud puller, and have wiring to do....

And John brings up a good point for those not familiar with studs - they DO have two (slightly different threads on each end! Understand what you're doing before installing them....

Paul
 
Done!

Got the Snap-On stud puller from Jay, and it took about ten minutes to pull both of them - I took my time because it is such a pleasure to use a good tool designed for a particular task....

No worries -- both came right out with no heat. I almost wish I had some more studs to pull, just to use it some more.;)

Now I can mount the P-Mags exactly how I want them oriented.

Paul
 
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Pictures

Here's the Snap-On Stud Puller - a housing and the proper collet (5/16 for the Mag studs):

IMG_6218.JPG


IMG_6216.JPG


And here it is on the engine - screw on the collet, slide on the housing, tighten the nut to pull in the collet, then crank on the thing with a big wrench - stud comes right out!

IMG_6221.JPG


Paul
 
Paul, y'all need to get the exterminator out for them termites, before the workbench falls apart:eek:

IMG_6218.JPG
 
Last night I went and checked my set, it is a CG515B. Just in case you have access to a Snap On truck and you feel like disposing of some cash.
 
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Already answered, but here's how I did it.

I used two nuts, red loctite and a gentle rocking motion to get the stud to break loose. I also have long wrenches. Clean the stud with solvent, put on the red loctite, put on the nuts, tighten as hard as possible. Let set for 15 minutes or so. Then using socket with breaker bar, TIGHTEN the stud a bit, then LOOSEN. Repeat until the stud lets go.

YMMV,
JP

Ironflight said:
Hi folks - quick question for the experienced mechanics here. I need to replace the left magneto studs on the Valkyrie (swapping to _P-mags, and taking out the impulse coupler spacer - so need shorter studs). I've put doubled nuts on them and cranked, - they just aren't coming. I'm figuring heat is the answer, but I don't have a lot of experience with that - are we talking butane-torch heat? On the case? And how much?

Non-heat answers are even better - I haven't put gorilla strength on them yet - they are so long, they almost seem to want to twist....if the answer is "use more force!" we can try that too....

Of to lunch - let's see how many answers I get!
Click to expand...
 
Snap-on Dealer (Franchisee)

After reading this forum string, I've been debating for a few minutes whether or not to make this offer. Nights and weekends I'm an RV7 builder but by day I am a Snap-on dealer. One of the VAF moderators may delete this, deeming it an advertisement but it's simply an offer from a fellow RV builder. Please let Doug make the call on this one and if he decides to delete it, I completely understand.

If you order tools through the Snap-on web site (www.snapontools.com) you will pay for the tool + sales tax + shipping. My offer is this: Send me a Private Message here on VAF and tell me what you want. I'll have Snap-on drop ship the items directly to you and I'll cover the sales tax (to save you a little) and I'll send Doug 10% of your purchase (to support VAF).

If you are currently doing business with your local Snap-on dealer, please disregard this offer. I don't want to step on anyone's toes (Including Doug's).
 
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