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Removing T-708 plate from gas tank

wrongway john

Well Known Member
Got left gas tank off on my RV-6, undid the screws to T-708 plate, applied heat in the form of a heat gun, then tried a 250 watt heat lamp for 15 minutes, using a flat putty knife to try to get under it, and some gentle tugs of various screw drivers, still not really getting anywhere.

Any suggestions? Seem like somebody may have used piano wire?
 
1" wide putty knife

Round the corners very slightly so they wont gouge the aluminum.

Sharpen the end slightly using a disk sander.

Tap it under the cover and then around the perimeter using a small hammer.
 
Thanks, Scott, there were two metal rings, I assumed one was the outer metal ring attached to the rib, that the T-708 attached too.

I tried it again with my 1" putty knife, and sharpened it, along with giving it 30 minutes under the heat lamp. I had used a little hammer before tapping on my putty knife, but got no where. This time, I'm doing better, 15 minutes into the hammering, I'm about a 1/4 of the way through. Unbelievable the kind of strength this bonding stuff has. Wasn't sure if this was even going to do the trick, reassuring to know you got it off like this.

For others that may be doing this in the future, I talked to Van's, and they said they don't recommend using the cork anymore, nor using proseal, but recommend using their latest tank sealant and sealing it up with just that. Although I'm sure proseal is still very popular too.
 
Yeah, I had a leak on both of my tanks. Luckily, they were both on the ends and I was able to get to the leak on one by removing the plate. The other one, I was able to reach the leak with a long stick and pro seal from the fuel cap hole. I hadn't installed them on the wings yet.

I didn't use the cork gasket at all, I just used pro seal. When I had to take the plate off, I used MEK pretty sparingly to soften the pro seal. It was still a booger getting it off though.
 
Just out of curiosity, why would you not implement PolyGone 310-AG to aid this process?

This is all new to me since I didn't build this plane, and that was the reason for posting, since I rarely have time for VAF, tried some search engines but wasn't finding what I was looking for, so was asking for suggestions.

I didn't use the cork gasket at all, I just used pro seal. When I had to take the plate off, I used MEK pretty sparingly to soften the pro seal. It was still a booger getting it off though.

Mine didn't have the cork either, so will go corkless again since Van's recommends this. Since Home Depot and Lowe's don't carry MEK anymore, and I didn't want to wait and also have the expense ordering through mail again, I used "MEK substitute", which is what Home Depot calls it, and thought it also did a good job of helping get the stuff off.
 
This is all new to me since I didn't build this plane, and that was the reason for posting, since I rarely have time for VAF, tried some search engines but wasn't finding what I was looking for, so was asking for suggestions.



Mine didn't have the cork either, so will go corkless again since Van's recommends this. Since Home Depot and Lowe's don't carry MEK anymore, and I didn't want to wait and also have the expense ordering through mail again, I used "MEK substitute", which is what Home Depot calls it, and thought it also did a good job of helping get the stuff off.


We can still get MEK at Lowe's here in OK. Just picked up a gallon yesterday.
 
I get real MEK at Sherwin Williams. Other paint stores may have it, too.
 
Maybe they do still carry it in TX too then, looked forever for it, and wasn't able to find any help in either store, so I settled on the "MEK Substitute". Keep Sherwin Williams in mind as well.
 
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