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AX-O's Fastback RV-4

How are you handling the stick interference and also the brace that typically goes along the bottom of the panel? I am looking to do the same but these are challenges in extending the panel down in the center region there that I am scratching my head over, can you post more pictures of how you dealt with this?

For more pics, look at the Picasa link in my signature.

Picture below shows the stick. No issues. The pannel was designed not to interfere with the stick. The red line is just there to hold the stick under the panel.
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I removed the standard brace and moved the support a few inches closer to the fire wall. It also holds my avionics rack. If you look at the picture below (bottom of the pic, right off center), you will see a 3/4 inch angle that runs up and down (on the picture). Right behind the radios. It is a much much larger support compared to the original.
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from the top
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from the other side (behing the large multi-color wire harness)
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Forgot...... I also put some 3M Di-Noc on my panel. It looks nice. We will see how long it will last.

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AX-O: Do you have any scraps of the Di-Nox left over? Would you mind mailing me a snip? How's it holding up? Where's the best place to purchase?
 
I am way behind on pics. I updated my Picasa albums today. Here are some of the updates.

Comm and xponder antennas are on.
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The NACA Scoops are on. Like everything else in this build, I had to compromise. This is not the ideal location pressure wise but I ran out of the best options due to internal interferences with other things.
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The switch panel and the front stick are in. Still need to wire the switch panel. The blue seat is just there as a sub. It came out of an AV-8B ejection seat.
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Still updating. Pics are of work in progress.

I removed my canopy for some clean up. I have yet to fill the glass and make it nice. One day it will be done.
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Changed my mind on the standby instruments and replace it with a cicuit breaker panel. I also made provisions on the instrument panel for vents.
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I modified the lever by extending the lever up 1 1/4 inch from the original position. The lever is also bent at approx 45 deg. Parts were provided by Dayton Murdock of DJM.

I started with this and modified it.
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here are additional pics.
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Nice "Go Fast" lever Axel - believe me, it is probably one of the best cockpit improvements you can make - there is just something that feels right when you wrap your fist around it.... :)

Paul
 
Pistol Grip

Axel,

This is exactly what I want to do for my 7A quadrant. Can you provide specifics such as the brand and type of grip used. What if anything did you use to fill the hollow. I plan on putting the flap switch on top of the handle as flaps and throttle are used most and together at landing or take off. Thanks in advance.

Dave Nellis
7A Slider Canoe rolled
N410DN (Res.)
 
Axel,

This is exactly what I want to do for my 7A quadrant. Can you provide specifics such as the brand and type of grip used. What if anything did you use to fill the hollow. I plan on putting the flap switch on top of the handle as flaps and throttle are used most and together at landing or take off. Thanks in advance.

Dave Nellis
7A Slider Canoe rolled
N410DN (Res.)

The grip is the standard one that comes with the AR15s. Most people replace them and use nicer ones. So you can get them for a few bucks. I did not fill the hole. I just used two #3 AN bolts, countersunk the grip accordingly then bolted the lever and grip together. Adding the flap switch on the top will not be difficult but you will have to cut and shape the grip. Good luck.

FWIW I have the same vent location on my -4 and it works great.

Thank you.
 
Just posting a few more pictures of the progress. Finally got the relays figured out and the majority of the avionics wiring. I have the system set up to accept a Tru Track auto pilot but don't know yet if I will change it to a GRT. I also installed some drilled wheel disks and a new wheel pant bracket (made by Dayton) for my Sam James wheel pants.

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Looks like you are doing an outstanding job! But above and beyond that, you should be extremely grateful for whomever wrote that awesome note of encouragement on the firewall! I'd pay big money just to have my wife (in my situation/build) give me one ounce of encouragment- not to mention seeing her write a nice note on my firewall! That is awesome! You are lucky to have such a supporter.
 
you should be extremely grateful for whomever wrote that awesome note of encouragement on the firewall! I'd pay big money just to have my wife (in my situation/build) give me one ounce of encouragment- not to mention seeing her write a nice note on my firewall! That is awesome! You are lucky to have such a supporter.

I don't want to drift this thread too far off the RV-4 topics for archive resons. All that being said, my wife is my biggest supporter and I am very grateful. She does not come out to the garage often but when she does it is to bring me food, something to drink or support me in whatever way she can. I have notes like that on post-it too. I just move my post-it notes around the plane to whatever area I am working on. Pretty cool huh? Thank you for the kind words.
 
Really Awsome craftsmanship AXO. Excellent wiring. You should be proud of your work. I am envious.:)
 
Great to see the progress Axel!

One question on your bus bars - it is probably just the color balance on the photos, but what material are you using? It looks more yellowish than copper....

Paul
 
With the EIS mounted up underneath the front deck, are you planning on putting in an access hatch for getting to it??

As I recall, there is a lot of button pushing needed to get the system all set up.

You could even make an extension cord so you could have the box in the cockpit area while doing all the initialization stuff, the remove the extension, and remount it back in the dark recesses of the fuse.
 
Those look like fast on grounding tabs, but what about your buss bars? I agree with Paul, they look yellowish, almost look like aluminum which I don't believe would be quite as good conductor as copper and melts at about half the temp.

I was there a couple of weeks ago and I want to say that the bus bar on the CBs are Brass. Axel will clarify.
 
With the EIS mounted up underneath the front deck, are you planning on putting in an access hatch for getting to it??

No. It is not too difficult to get in there. Electric screw driver will do the trick. I am not painting the plane for a while so I am no worried about damaging paint.

I also have the capability to remove the EIS box and store it in the space between my feet (where the battery originally goes).

Those look like fast on grounding tabs, but what about your buss bars? I agree with Paul, they look yellowish, almost look like aluminum which I don't believe would be quite as good conductor as copper and melts at about half the temp.

My bad. I am using this, made out of brass and the washers. http://www.bandc.biz/busbarstock.aspx

I was there a couple of weeks ago and I want to say that the bus bar on the CBs are Brass.
Yes, thanks.
 
Smoke check of EFIS

Major mile stone for me. I put power on the GRT screens and EIS. The smoke remained in the boxes. Will try to put power on the rest of my avionics this weekend. Fingers crossed.

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Congratulations!!

Nice :D

I like the bigger screens you have there, makes me want to upgrade mine.

From what I see of your shop, it is way too clean/organized.
 
Nice :D

I like the bigger screens you have there, makes me want to upgrade mine.

From what I see of your shop, it is way too clean/organized.

Mike,
Those are the standard size screens. They may look bigger because the panel space available on the RV-4 is limited (compared to a 10). I had to extend the panel down 2 inches in order to fit both of the screens.


and yes the garage is clean/organized. Doing that puts me in the frame of mind that each project i work on (rivets, wire, etc) needs to be just as clean and organize. Works for me.
 
Mike,
Those are the standard size screens. They may look bigger because the panel space available on the RV-4 is limited (compared to a 10). I had to extend the panel down 2 inches in order to fit both of the screens.

I think you have the newer HS/HX screens which are a half inch taller than my old WS series. I can not get the engine data in the lower block like yours is showing.

Whatever they are, you are going to enjoy flying behind them, that is for sure :D
 
For the most part everything went well today. I put power on all my avionics . The smoke remained in all the boxes. However, my SL40 did not power up. I spent 45 minutes or so trouble shooting and no joy.

-Checked power and ground wires for continuity and no problems.
-Checked the power and ground pins and no problems.
-Checked to make sure I had 12V at the radio and no problems.
-Checked voltage with the circuit breaker in/out and no problems.

So I decided to swap my radio with the radio in the flying RV. Sure enough I found the problem. My bran new radio does not work (in the flying RV either). Moving on to the next project. At least I know why it does not work. Below are two pics; one with all the stuff ON and one with the stuff OFF.


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I am starting to run out of parts. I can almost count the number of parts required prior to the ?big move?. I am starting to do ?flare? type stuff. Some pics of progress over the last few weeks are shown below. I have also been doing functionality check on some the systems. All smoke is still remaining contained in the avionic boxes.

Wiring:
This last plugs allows me to disconect all my avionics and pull out the tray so I can have access during Maint functions.
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Side panels:
These two plugs allow me to remove the control panel in case of Maint.
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The small holes are for pockets. The large ones are for the copilot comm plugs.
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Auto pilot:
The nice thing about a fastback, just a little more space. My wife came out to garage looking for me and freaked out.
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Magnetmeter:
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Axel, Keep the pictures coming, it inspires me to keep moving on my 4. Not at the stage your at, but will be this summer, I hope!

Ross Scroggs
Locust Grove, GA
RV-4 #3911 Fuselage
 
Axel, Keep the pictures coming, it inspires me to keep moving on my 4. Not at the stage your at, but will be this summer, I hope!

Ross Scroggs
Locust Grove, GA
RV-4 #3911 Fuselage


Wilco. I am glad it helps you out. Others constantly give me motivation; the least I can do is pay it forward to those that are at an earlier stage on their build.
 
Here are a few more pics of the pockets and the cockpit lights installed. the lights can rotate as required. The straps are for the head set when ingressing or egressing the cockpit.

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Love that map pocket just below the elbow pad (last pix).... if that's what its:eek:

The pilot pockets were designed to hold charts and standard size paper. The co pilot ones were designed to hold one gossip magazine. There will be an additional pocket on the back of the pilot seat to hold an ipad.
 
Axel, you are doing beautiful work. You Sir, are going to have one super fine -4 when you're through. I want to see it up close!! :)

Cheers,
 
The pilot pockets were designed to hold charts and standard size paper. The co pilot ones were designed to hold one gossip magazine. There will be an additional pocket on the back of the pilot seat to hold an ipad.

Why don't you want the gossip mags up front with you? Maybe she'll read them to you though..

You're doing a great job there. Hurry up!!!
 
I have not been able to work on the plane for over a month. I hurt my back. Below is some of the work I did before I hurt myself. I will cut the hole for the aft control stick once the controls a connected. I also had to extend the baggage compartment a few inches due to the fastback.

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Since my back is still not well enough to work inside the plane, I had to figure something else to work on from the outside. I did not want to work on the wheel pants, gear legs, fairings yet but it is one of the only things left to do that don't require a lot of heavy lifting. I know how much I dislike fiberglass work but get reminded ever so often. The wheel pants, gear legs and fairings are a pain. I should have waited but the process has started and it must be completed. Some pics below.

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So sorry to hear about your back Axel! I've had some experience along those lines and "it ain't fun". I applaud your decision to forge ahead on the other tasks. They have to be done sometime anyway; so you are making progress. Good move.

Your metal work, well all your work is beautiful. I wish you a speedy recovery & a happy 4th. :)

Cheers,
 
More work on the gear leg fairings. I was able to set the correct angle on the gear leg fairings this weekend. I used a different method than Vans because I was having problems with fairing twist. So I decided to drill a #40 hole on each side of the fairing and a matching hole on my work bench. I then left the #40 drill bit in place. Holding the fairing in place. After I had both end set, I used clamps and tape. I also drilled three #40 holes on the trailing edge of the fairing. The fairing came out straight during the installation. I was surprised. Pics below.

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I also worked on the gear intersection fairings. Been trying to figure out how to make the left and right side the same. Well more like "similar". They won't ever be the same. I tried out this idea of making a cardboard template until I was happy, then making the template out of thin metal. I did 2 of the same metal templates for the upper gear leg fairings. One for the front and one for the back. I slid the template into the aft gear leg seam then used glue to secure the aft metal template to the plane. I used tape on the forward template because I was able to bend a tab and tape the template in place. Pics below.

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I then made the mold for the left side. Will try to make the right one in a few days. It ended up being larger than I wanted but it looks as good as any other I have seen.

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