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Access Panel Installation - mistake in plans?

Amazon-1

Active Member
I am nearly finished my RV-14A. I decided to add the optional access panel modification from Van's to allow me to access the "pit" area in front of the instrument panel sub-panel. The kit is inexpensive ($25) and seems to be a good idea.

Today, I was working on installing the mod and found myself confused by the instructions. Essentially, the mod is made up of a backing ring that is riveted to the inside of the top skin and an access plate that sits flush into the top skin and is screwed into the exposed lip of the backing ring.

In step two, the plans say to final drill #19 the screw holes in the fuse top skin but two steps later they tell you to "remove the hatched area" which includes those holes I just final drilled. It would make sense if they said to final drill #19 in the access panel - but not in the fuse skin.

So am I reading the plans wrong?
 
I’m building a 7 but I did the mod.

You drill the holes from the template (backup ring). Remove the ring, then cleco the panels on. Trace the edge of the panels. Then remove them, and cut the holes.

The backup ring alone can’t give you the dimensions for the opening; you need to trace the panels themselves. Putting the holes in the skin (even temporarily) allows you to cleco the panels on for tracing.
 
I bought the kit for my 9A tip-up but haven't installed it yet. I did have a complaint about the way the instructions read. It has you use the 2 model specific key holes (on the tabs) to position the cutout, but, like you pointed out, the tabs get removed. Those holes line up on the top skin/firewall rivet line and in in a finished plane, that means drilling out 2 rivets per panel. Then those holes aren't used for the access panels and you have to just replace them. No way I'm going to remove 4 perfectly good rivets and replace them later just to position the cutouts. Makes much more sense to use the holes to line up above the rivets and drill different holes to set the position - holes that will be used for the ring installation.

Other than this oddity, the installation looks pretty straight forward and I'll doing it during the winter doldrums along with my partial IFR upgrade.
 
Seal

I used 1/8” wide by 1/32” thick self adhesive neoprene foam tape. Worked great and is available from mcmaster. I have the part number at the hangar...
 
... In step two, the plans say to final drill #19 the screw holes in the fuse top skin...

I drilled the access panel #30 to the top skin initially so it can be traced for the cutout. I sent this suggestion to Van's.
 

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Bob.

That part number would be appreciated! I’ve been wondering how to seal it. I wasn’t sure I wanted to break out more sticky pro seal .

James
 
I'm planning to just use a Permatex gasket maker compound, easy to find, inexpensive and in my opinion would do a better job around corners and holes than an adhesive foam tape. Also not nearly as awful to use as proseal.
 
Mcmaster part number

I used 1/8” wide by 1/32” thick self adhesive neoprene foam tape. Worked great and is available from mcmaster. I have the part number at the hangar...

rocketman Bob helped me find what he used from McMaster... 93375K601
 
I drilled the access panel #30 to the top skin initially so it can be traced for the cutout.

Just chiming in to say that I did the same thing: Drilled #30 initially, then drilled everything up to #19 together with all the parts clecoed to the fuselage. Worked great and everything is perfectly aligned. Adds a couple minutes of extra work but no worries about holes not lining up.

More pictures: http://www.rv7blog.com/2021/01/08/avionics-access-panels/
 
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I happened to call Vans on this same issue today, and was told that the plans should include and instruction to final drill to no. 19 the holes in the access panel covers before dimpling them. But you still need a few of the larger (black) clecos if you go this route.
 
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