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Fuse Outboard Rib Fluting? F-1018

bkmerrill

Member
26-5 Step 1 calls for fluting the F-1015 ribs, which I did no problems. It does not call for fluting the F-1018 rib (next further aft outboard rib) to match the curve in the bottom skin holes. I am now clecoing on the bottom skin and finding the holes do not align. I can get the clecos in going one at a time, but the rib begins to pucker/flute itself. Anyone else have this issue? Should I just flute the rib flange? Only concern with doing so is shrinking the overall length causing a different issue. Before doing so wanted to check with the trusty VAF.

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Fluting worked perfectly. Usually instructions are spot on, but frustrating that sometimes they are inconsistent with when they explicitly call for a certain step/technique vs other times...oh well! Thanks.
 
Just got caught out on that as well, fortunately managed to fix before riveting.

This is the 4th RV type I have built and find these instructions most difficult to 'get into'. A bit like understanding a crossword compiler, there are basic bits missing that would be really helpful.

Cases in point.

Where two pieces both have platenut holes punched in, but it turns out, one of them isn't needed.

Trying to look forward to see how the engine mount weldments are going to link in before you rivet the firewall.

They need a Where's Wally character who can appear on pages with a quick explanation :D;)
 
Brandon, you and I are at the same place right now and I had this very issue 2 days ago. I went ahead and drilled them after they "self fluted", then fluted them after I removed the skin. I just about have everything ready to go back on after all the deburing and priming.
 
Any tips on fluting those F-1018 ribs once they are riveted in place? I haven't attached the bulkhead assembly that goes on the back of them yet so they are still flexible and the rivets attaching them at the front were enough of a pain that I'd rather not drill them out if I don't have to.
 
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