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Skyview Avionics Received!

Read prior posts for most of these with further details and exact page numbers. IF you are using the conversion harnesses you will not use the WH-00025. You will instead plug in the plug labeled "Autopilot" from your options conversion harness and install a molex disconnect on your AP switch.

The intercom issue is also fully covered in prior posts. You only have the WH-RV12-FLTCOM403 harness if you bought the prior D-180 avionics. Otherwise they found out they had overlooked it, then sent us some new wires to use and a new plans page revision.

The L456 harness is not done by Stein exactly as described in the plans but it is labeled. Also covered in prior posts.

The (PRP/YEL) and (YEL/GRN) are for the roll bar light, You do not use them if you already installed that in the finish kit "the old way" which is why you would cut them. Remember they are doing totally new harnesses for people now getting the finish kit.
 
Still confused

I have printed several posts on the AP disconnect and what goes in the molex plug. The disconnect side in pretty easy (for me) to understand who to organize the plug, but coming from under the panel side is still a bit confusing to me.

So the long purple/yellow and yellow/grn are used to run to the roll bar light but since I installed the finish kit I abandon those wires, Correct? Where do the 2 wires coming from the roll bar now go? Are these the 2 "light" wires associated with the molex plug to the disconnect? Even if they are identified differently in the plans. Just confusing because it is set-up for different situations.

42D pg22 step3, running P600 & P601, orn/blk to headset then tie off? Really, is there something else down the road or is this too another change associated with a different installation?

Is anyone else install the new fuel sender? I am and on 42D pg 24 step 7 Red wire WH Q741 fuel pressure power supplied with the kit. What kit? It wasn't in with the sender, and I couldn't find a single red wire with any of the wiring item that came with Skyview. Any idea?

There was a prior question about removing AP 74 and 42D pg16 step2 states roll it up or cut and seal the wire ends so I did.

L456 & L458 go left and right but I have not done any of 31A so I hoped it would be identified there and on 42D pg 23 these wires are mentioned. However, the note at the top says If up-dating directly to skyview on 31A then ignor this page. Now I'm wondering if I am converting because of installing the finish kit even though I never install the D180.

Thanks to all ahead of me who have figured these things out!:eek:
 
I am on a business trip without my plans. But...
Imagine that you completed the AP disconnect switch as per the original finish kit plans. You can find the page. There are 4 wires going to that switch. They come from "inside" the panel, out through a hole in the base, then underneath the base to the switch. Now, those wires prevent you from taking off that center piece of the panel! Which you have to do because the new center piece is different. Those are the 4 wires you CUT and you install a molex connector there to reattach them later. (It should have been done that way in the first place, sometimes Van's saves some money on strange things...)

You are correct in cutting off entirely the branch of the old harness that would have been used for the AP-74. That is per the instructions.

Those wires that get tied off at the headphone jacks have been confirmed in this thread to provide 12 V. You could use them to supply ship's power to a noise cancelling headset that needs it (rather than carrying around a battery pack).

I installed the new fuel pressure sender. Just make yourself a wire. You'll need to crimp a pin on one end. Doesn't matter if its red. It is probably red in a new harness you get if you buy a finish kit now.

If you installed the roll bar light already per the earlier finish kit plans, don't change it and just don't use those wires you mention. You might remember that making the wires for that light was something of a tacked-on-kludge. What is happening now is that they are being included in the default wiring harness.

Cross check L456 and L458 with the lighting connector upgrade section. You need them. They will power the nav lights, with the existing wires being separated out and supplying only the strobes. The new switch panel is different, with separate switching for nav only and nav/strobe-combo.
 
At first I was disappointed that I was not first and I did not get to solve all the early wiring problems with the Skyview, but now I am actually quite thankful that Bill got to do it, and even more thankful he is sharing what he found with the rest of us. Thanks Bill!
 
Thanks Bill and like Don I too an very glad there are others who have accomplish the install and can coach others, like me!!:D

I never installed the AP disconnect because it would have required me to install the center panel section. Knowing I was going to hold out for Skyview I waited and thought I had the wiring worked out, but the interior light played a part and yes a little convoluted. I will review some of the past posts and try to figure out what wires they are identifing.

So those long 2 wires would go to the interior light now go to the wires I already installed to the interior light? I know I printed a plans revision for the interior light and will review that page.

Thanks again Bill.....and if you have any prior post #'s which would be good to explain any of this stuff I probably have printed it out but let me know.
 
To be safe, you should electrically connect the roll bar light and the AP disconnect switch per the original finish kit plans. Just add in the Molex "dis-connector" beneath the panel when you wire up the AP disconnect switch.

The conversion harness assumes you did it that way and those things will work correctly when you use that conversion harness. They may or may not if you try to use those new wires for the roll bar light - depends on how they were wired in the new harnesses and we don't have that diagram! So play it safe - the plans say not to use them. I know my roll bar light and AP disconnect works fine by following the plans!

I had also held off originally on that AP switch for the same reason you did. Then I went ahead and put in carefully marked male-female spade-type disconnects because I ran out of things to do waiting for Skyview! (Oooooh! What about E-LSA..... give me a break!) And then they sent the Molex and I had to undo/redo that! Oh well! I think in newer kits (not for us conversion types) they are also "molexing" the trim motor, the fuel flow transducer, and who knows - maybe even the AP servos. Those would all be a good idea compared to the multitude of these finicky spade lugs that are problematic with 22ga wire.
 
I think in newer kits (not for us conversion types) they are also "molexing" the trim motor, the fuel flow transducer, and who knows - maybe even the AP servos.

Correct Bill.
All wire connections have been upgraded to molex or micro molex connectors.
 
Speaking of the nefarious AP Disconnect Button, I discovered a "challenge" Friday evening that set me back on my heels for several hours. I'm upgrading the old wiring harness to Skyview and hadn't bought the D180 avionics kit. When installing the wiring last year, I didn't do the AP Disconnect Button because Van's had already announced that Skyview was coming and the Autopilot would be handled differently. The button with its four dangling wires was placed on the shelf in a ziplock bag, until last Friday.

If we turn to Page 31-07 Step 7 of the Scriptures, we find that WH-F78 and WH-F79 (the long pinned wires coming from the AP Disconnect Button) are inserted into Pins 9 and 12 of the 25-Pin Optional D-Sub Connector. Easy enough, right? But there were already two wires in those pin locations! Now what?

Since Van's was closed for the weekend, I got into some thread searching here on vansairforce.net and came up with a wiring table spreadsheet that listed all of the wires for the original wiring harness. Studying this for awhile, I finally figured out that the factory-inserted wires in Pins 9 and 12 should've been inserted into Pins 10 and 11. So, I moved these two wires, inserted the AP Disconnect Button wires according to Page 31-07 Step 7, and am now hoping for the best.

I sure hope this thing works...
 
Challenging

Catbird, Bill H, and builder 2002

I am having difficulty identifing the wires now that conversion has started. I thought it was fairly clear during the finish kit install, but even then not the "clearest instuction part." Now since I did not install the AP button it looks a little more confusing. Wire identification is different. For instance these darn cabin light wires and how they integrate into the AP button. I guess it was a power thing, but the numbers on those are not the lighting wire numbers on the conversion plans. Both my cabin light wires are white coming from the light and terminating inside the bottom of the panel. So when I look at color of wire and number assigned I have no idea where those wires might be. Again the button wires are there and figuring those out and into the molex are not too bad. I have to remove some pin ends to attach new connectors but not too bad.

Any help appreciated.
 
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Here's what I did, for better or worse. Again, I'm upgrading the older wiring system to Skyview.

First, I set aside WH-00025 harness since we determined that it isn't supposed to be used for upgrading the older wiring system.

Second, I skipped the Molex 4-plug connector under the panel. Since I had never wired up the AP Disconnect button in the first place, there was no need to cut the wires for the Molex pins. I just made sure the center panel was ready to install permanently, installed it, and then ran the four wires from the button up through the nearest snap bushing in the panel base.

Third, I followed page 31-07 Steps 5, 6, and 7 verbatum. This is in the old Fuselage Wiring Harness Section 31. As well as I can tell, there is no change to the wiring of the AP Disconnect Button wires, except for the additon of Molex pins and associated plug to accomodate removal and replacement of the instrument panel center section.
 
Thanks Catbird

I final figured it out using 31-07 and my pee-brain realized I had to make-believe I had installed the AP disconnect, cut the wires under the panel to add the plug.

Now the wiring makes sense except where they had me cut the striped wires I would have used into the butt-joint with the AP disconnect and lighting wires. I will have to review those wire mods again, but I feel I have it now.:D

Moving forward.
 
WH-00025

I am installing the Autopilot Servos now. Where is the WH-00024 that you are not using? Looked in the Master Parts List and do not see this number. Which harness is it? My autopilot kit came with the Molex connectors
 
Roger,

I'm assuming you're inquiring about the WH-00025 harness, as shown in the title of your message. The body of your text refers to WH-00024.

Keep in mind that each of us is potentially receiving a different wiring kit. Dependent on our level of completion, Van's is individually tailoring each kit so that it matches the previous kits each of us has purchased from them.

If you didn't receive WH-00025 and if it isn't listed in your inventory parts list, then you most likely don't need it.

Catbird (Jerry)
 
Ours fired up!

After getting the panel powder coated, we fired up the panel and so far everything is working great. I still need to do more on the Skyview to configure it but all the switches seem to work. Just need to swap a couple of pins to make the trim go the right way.
I love the wiring on this panel, just need to finish it up and button everything down.

IMG6665-X2.jpg


IMG6660-X2.jpg


IMG6662-X2.jpg
 
Very nice Scott!
I am getting my panel ready for powder coat. Did you have to enlarge any openings to allow for the coating thickness?
And it looks like you have not connected the pitot tube yet?

Good job and thanks for posting the motivational photos.:D
 
Looks nice the powder coat!
I used the same stuff as Bill ; 3M DINOC (CA-421). Easy to apply with a heat gun and an iron for RC models.
Only lining up the stuff on the panels took some time. Powered up today for the first time. No smoke!:D
BTW I'm gonna use AN515B6R8 (MS35214-27) for the panel. Those screws are black.

IMG_2470.JPG
 
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Gagarin737 --

Did you wrap the CA-421 around the edges of the panel holes and perimeter or did you trim the edges of the CA-421 flush with the outside edges of the aluminum? Which way do you think will work best?

-- David
 
I wrapped it around the edges. I used the heat gun at 70 degrees celcius. I was really amazed how flexible this stuff gets. I also used the 3M primer around the edges.
In real life it looks much more "luxury" than at the pictures.

Edges.jpg
 
I was advised to use washers under the screws with this stuff. You could paint 'em black.
 
Skyview Panel

Very nice Scott!
I am getting my panel ready for powder coat. Did you have to enlarge any openings to allow for the coating thickness?
And it looks like you have not connected the pitot tube yet?

Good job and thanks for posting the motivational photos.:D

Thanks. Nope, I did not have to open any holes. I forgot to open the hole for the autopilot disconnect before powder coating but it was fine opening it up with a unibit and did not crack or chip the powder coating.

I have not hooked up the pitot tube yet. Everything there is done, I just took off the prop because I don't have a ton of room in my garage. I will hook it up this weekend and finish tying up the wires once I know everything is working.
 
FIRST ENGINE RUN TODAY! Went just fine! The oil pressure and tach scales on the Skyview change their green ranges when the oil temp reaches 120 degrees. (The D-180 also did this.)
 
Receiver a new WH00027 intercom harness from Van's this one is longer they said that the one I have is too short. I have the first one installed and have no problem. This happen to any one else. One other question. What are the nutplates below the center panel for.
 
If you mean where the new plans show to add nutplates to the very bottom of the center panel - the curved-under bottom edge underneath the engine controls - the answer is "nothing!" Can't figure out why they added putting nutplates on those even though they were predrilled for them. (I am thinking it had to do with some other model of RV that had a similar center panel - they do reuse many construction ideas and components from other RVs on the -12). The prior plans did not show that. Nothing connects there.
 
skyview

recieved the new 42d drawings today. On page 42d-20 is
the wiring diagram for the headset pinout for the
wh-00026 rev. 1 kit. I don't know which is the pilot
or copilot they are listed as rz194 and rz195 has
anyone found which is pilot and copilot?
 
Bill-Congrats on Completion! -- a Milestone!

The Facebook pictures look great Bill, nice job.

Tony
 
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Wow Bill, you did not fool around when you got your skyview! Congratulations on your completion!

"Sweetie" is now fully assembled! At the airport, taxi tests done, and the Airworthiness Inspection is imminent!!! See the last few pictures HERE and note the great job Abby at Flightline did with the interior. (Even though all of the pieces are not in yet because of the need for the inspection plates to be open.)
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.151245628228677.26907.100000297210697&type=1&l=a2b29e894a
 
Looks ready!!

Good job Bill! I look forward to reading about first flight.

In the photos I noticed an adel clamp on the upper left firewall area. What will it be for? :confused:
 
skyview

Thanks gagarin737 for the information on the pilot and copilot wiring
connections. I will try to get the wiring diagrams off Van's web sight.
I hope the diagrams also solve the autopilot disconnect problem.
 
That clamp is for the to-be-relocated Honeywell oil pressure sensor - a mod thoroughly discussed in the "Modifications" thread. I already obtained and sized that oil line and so the post-certification swap will only take a few minutes.

If you look in that thread you will see that people have co-mounted the relocated sensor with the fuel pressure sender. Unfortunately, the new fuel pressure sender is mounted on a revised bracket from Van's - so that clamp you see is held by an AN bolt to the engine EMS box on the other side of the firewall, replacing a screw.
 
Thanks Bill

Bill,
Unfortunate about the Rotax accessories. Fuel pump, fuel pressure sender and oil pressure sender, all have had issues. I too did the fuel pressure sender now and will allow the others to function until failure. Seems to be a poor way to function in an aviation environment with safety so high on the preparation check list. Some have had no problems so one can only hope and be vigilant.:eek:
I too will look up the information on the sender adel clamp size and have it ready.
 
Another one delivered today

Finally got my Skyview kit this morning, only one harness on back order. Exceptional job of packing by Vans as usual. All inventoried and ready to start work now.
2rbyqsm.jpg
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Don
Relief!
I'm not sure why I have been so "emotionally" involved, but I have been hanging out for you to receive your avionics kit!
I sort of breathed a sigh of relief reading your post.
Looking forward to reading your progress and then first flight.
I enjoy your posts quite a bit.
Regards
John
 
Don,

I'm happy to see you've received your kit! Hopefully you'll feel like it was worth the wait....keep us posted as to your progres!

Cheers,
Stein

PS, I'm fairly certain you'll have your backordered harness before you know it!
 
I have to admit, it was worth the wait. The work and attention to detail that has gone into this kit is outstanding. When you realize that Vans had to make it fit RV12's of various stages of construction, that was quite a task for sure, for instance mine is one that has to have some things pulled back out and tossed to make room for the new. I sure cannot do it as fast as Bill did, but I am going to try.
 
N412BR "Sweetie" flies! Successful test flight today!
Kit # 412, N412BR, 1st flight 4-12!
This might be the 1st E-LSA Skyview in flight. Details being posted in the 1st flight sticky thread and also were sent to Van's.
Bill H - whew!!!!!!
 
Congratulations Bill

Great News! Also, thanks for sharing all your experiences during the Skyview conversion installation. It has been invaluable to all of us following in your wake.
 
Great job, Bill!!! I'm really happy for you!
Just did 0.5 hr on the stick of Denny's RV-12 myself. What a great airplane!
 
I added a fuel pump switch near the the fuel valve handle.
From the switch I pulled an extra wire to the EMS 37D-SUB and made a button on the Skyview screen. Fuel pump off gives a red light with the text "OFF", fuel pump on gives a black dot without text (like the spar pin and stall warning).
The only thing is I accidentally "configured" the battery sensor while I planned to configure the fuel pump sensor.
Is there anybody willing to write down the voltage values for the battery indication? (EMS sensor settings)
The fuel pressure sensor was wrongly mapped. Had to change it to the 0-30PSI sensor, so the red cross is gone.

Thanks in advance, Joeri.

foto1bd.jpg


foto2bly.jpg


foto3ic.jpg
 
That's a great idea, Joeri! Which pin did you hook the extra wire up to on the EMS 37D-SUB? I'll look it up myself but it's good to know what to look for before diving into that diagram...
 
I only had a single pole switch. So you will have 12V or 0V. The EMS can only measure values with a maximum of 5V. If the pin sees no input the value is also 5V. Because of this the standard pins are not working (like the spar pin and stall warning), or you'll have to work with a pull down resistor.
I put the wire at pin 2. With this pin you can measure voltage. Two ranges (15-7, 7-0) makes the button work.
To make it easy just order a double pole switch. Then you can use any free pin mentioned in the Skyview sensor mapping setup like the stall warning and spar pin circuit.
 
So with the dual-pole switch you just connect the sensor circuit to ground? If the switch is open, the EMS sees 5V as the circuit is undefined, and then sees 0V when the switch is flipped and connects it to ground? I guess that should work. I want to keep the better ports that can measure voltages open for future use.
 
Sensor settinf

Does anybody have a table of all the sensor settings as required for the 12. ?

I have completed the Skyview installation and all seems to work well after some corrective work.
I ran the Rotax without problems and all readings seem to be what expected.
VAN's advised to verify all the sensor configurations and level settings but they say they have no table of the settings. Unusual when they supply the settings file.
To sort these all out with the rotax manuals and sensor data thats quite a time consuming job and I wonder if its worth while..
Bill, did you check all these ?
 
Skyview software 3.3.2 is released and you NEED to install it! It corrects a "frozen screen" problem - pretty serious! The page where you download it is here:
http://dynonavionics.com/docs/support_software_SkyView.html
and there are full instructions. EXCEPT...

Here is a tip - after Skyview installs the 3.3.2 update it "appears" to reboot itself. Then it wakes up with big red "X"s on the main PFD and MAP screen. So you think, "Lets look at the network" and you will see all your modules there, but showing "in red" and "Offline." So you think "OK, I just have to tell it to scan its network again." Wrong! That won't work. TURN IT OFF (hold down the #1 button), then back on (ditto) and it will wake up and complete the update.

Jack - regarding your specific question, the Van's initial implementation of all the settings follows the standard Skyview recommendations in the installation manual. I did check them by looking at the various Skyview config pages and - as you are doing - verifying readings when the engine is running. But I haven't checked absolutely everything - I mean - CHT 1 & 2 might be swapped, for example. Some things I am trusting.

I am currently working an issue with Dynon about displaying "% Power" of the Rotax. Dynon has a very good support forum where questions are monitored and answered by factory personnel.

Bill H - Have flown 2.5 hours now!
 
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