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HS Inspar rib to front spar-spacing

My understanding is that slight gaps between rivets are not a big deal, but If after riveting you can get any feeler gauge to touch the rivet shank it is cause for rejection.

When using a squeezer, I had good luck putting a thin faucet washer or similar on the shop side of the rivet, so that when setting the rivet the washer squeezes the work together and effectively eliminates any gaps..
 
Buy some small diameter tubing. Then, by cutting short pieces you can have washers of any required length.
 
What size did you use? I bought some vinyl tubing at my local Ace hardware, but it seems a little stiff. Tried a few different sizes too.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
Build on...

I rememeber getting a lecture from the support desk on an “issue” similar to the situation you’re asking about....I got told to put away my micrometer and feeler guages unless it was spar or engine related and build on. I blew it up and posted it it on the wall. With an BSME it was almost like blasphemy, but now almost through phase one...build on. ;) ( I’m not saying being stupid or careless is ok, but now having been inside a Cherokee and a Skyhawk...yeah, I’ll take my workmanship over factory any day!)
 
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Thanks for the feedback. I think im being too picky, but dont want to miss something important. I will try the faucet washers and move along. Much apppreciated!
 
Thanks for the feedback. I think im being too picky, but dont want to miss something important. I will try the faucet washers and move along. Much apppreciated!

If you use faucet washers, make sure they are the soft rubber type. Some are are more firm and won't give the results you are looking for. My supply is running low, and I'm having trouble finding the soft type. I think I'll try the tubing suggested by mturnerb above.
 
Silicone model airplane fuel line works great for me on 3/32. For ⅛ I use rubber drip irrigation line from the big box. Had both lying around.
 
One rivet every 2 seconds

The women who built B-24s would set a rivet every 2 seconds, or so I'm told by the guys who used to work with them.
 
Small diameter ?O? rings - (thicker ones) work very well. Most hardware stores carry as well.
 
I can see that washers would work well in some locations but I have built eleven aircraft without them. If the parts do not fit well together then perhaps you should adjust the flange or change the order of riveting. The parts, especially on the 14, should line up so that the use of rubber washers is not required
 
I used @ 1/8" thick orange silicone baffling sheet cut into very small squares with an appropriately sized rivet hole punched in the middle -- worked great in compressing the aluminum parts together while squeezing or riveting.
 
I had a snag from the inspector on a gap between a stab rib and spar. Vans told me that the only purpose of that rivet was to hold the rib in place so that the skin could be riveted on. The loads go from the the skin into the spar. So that gap will not affect the structural strength of the tail. Of course you want to know how you can improve your workmanship, understandably, but don't waste your time drilling this out and risk elongating the hole etc.
 
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