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Texas Fastback 2.0

acam37

Well Known Member
124TT has made it safely to its new home in Germany. I hope the new owners enjoy the heck out of it. We decided to build another fastback, this time starting with a somewhat blank canvas with a partially completed kit. We thought we looked it over pretty good but I guess not good enough. I'm not going to mention any names or where I got it, but we have already ran into a major screw up that requires major surgery. It requires removing and replacing the top and lower longerons and the firewall weldments that they attach to. Hopefully after this is done we can actually go forward with this build instead of going backwards. I would like to know how others have solved this problem of getting the correct edge distance and fit? pictureds would be nice.
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Looking at those pictures, I would be suspect of every single point of prior assembly from the previous builder. Good luck with you project.
 
Actually the rest of the build looks pretty good. There are a few rivets that need to be drilled out. The good news is that the wings are still open and the fuse is a canoe. If this is the only boo-boo then after I get these longerons replaced its off to the race. I will definitely look everything over carefully before it gets installed. This is my second RV-4 build so I have a pretty good idea how things should look.
 
On my RV-3B, I decided to start with 1 x 1 x 1/8 angles and narrow them down in between wide spots. My VAF blog introduces them in this post.

That's post # 246 in this thread.

The subsequent posts don't particularly emphasize this feature - you can get glimpses of it - but it's definitely proving to be a good one. I'm glad I did it this way.

I remember that the narrowing took a weekend and left the shop with tiny aluminum needles. I had to make many, many passes with the shop vac to keep things under control.

Dave
 
You go

Actually the rest of the build looks pretty good. There are a few rivets that need to be drilled out. The good news is that the wings are still open and the fuse is a canoe. If this is the only boo-boo then after I get these longerons replaced its off to the race. I will definitely look everything over carefully before it gets installed. This is my second RV-4 build so I have a pretty good idea how things should look.

Interested in your opinion about the fastback vs. plans.
Do you think it is worth it to re-build an existing (and flying) canopy to make it a fastback?

Daddyman

Dues +
 
Interested in your opinion about the fastback vs. plans.
Do you think it is worth it to re-build an existing (and flying) canopy to make it a fastback?
Builders preference. I think it looks better. I got the longerons out and have the angle on the way. I went with Daves suggestion and ordered the 1" angle. I'm not sure how it will bend in the reqired areas and may have to notch those out. I may also need to build a jig to make sure everything goes back together straight and level. It's pretty flimsy with those longerons out.
 
On my longerons, remember, I narrowed them from the 1" flanges to 3/4" where I didn't need the additional width. I think that saved roughly 3/4 pound. It also eased their insertion into the pre-cut slots in the bulkheads.

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Dave
 
Motor Mount

Arlie,

Just a quick though here. I used the motor mount as my jig for most of what I have had to rebuild on my project. Bolted the weldments to it. The longerons are about the only thing that I didn't have to replace on mine. Rebuilding from the carry through forward.

Bruce
 
Airframe Realignment

Bruce, I intend to bolt up the motor mount using the bottom and center weldmets and then bolt the top welments directly to the motor mount. I hope to be able to set the new longerons in and put a level on top and start clamping everything in place before I drill a single hole. The tail is what Im most concerned about. I don't want any twist in the fuselage. If its level span and lengthwise then it should be straight. After the top get done, then I can change out the left bottom weldment and angle. The bottom right one is good so I'm leaving it alone.
 
the red structure

may I request a larger pic of the operating table. I think I see a jig that I may try to copy, any info would be cool. billythekid
 
I went with Davids suggestion and ordered 1" angle for the longerons. Can 1" be bent like the 3/4" or do I need to trim the bend areas down? I paid big bucks getting these two 15' pieces shipped so I really cant afford to experiment and risk destroying a piece.
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bending oversized longerons

Hi Arlie,
Yes you can put the bend in these.
I made my Main Longerons from 1.25 x 1.38 2024-T3 angle and made the required bends. However, I also made special tooling to do so. Easiest would be to take a picture but I've never posted a pic on here. Bottom line is that I mimicked a press brake with the top radius (inside of bend) being a turned slug with a groove to accept one flange (leg) of the angle; and the bottom v-die being two jaws backed by round rods so they would lay flat against the angle and rock as the radius die was pressed into them. For actuation I used a mill vise with an indicator set-up so I could repeat how far I squeezed and slowly step up to the required bend. The groove in the radius die kept that flange (leg) of the angle from deforming. Fair amount of work but it all worked out fine. And yes, I tapered the whole thing down to take off the unnecessary weight. The added flange was very nice at both ends and mid-span wherever fasteners tied in.
 
I narrowed my angles and then bent them. Here's the posting about that.

It went quite well.

I didn't make the tool. It was made by David Howe and I borrowed it. It works less well on 1/16" thick angles.

Since then I bought a HF shrinker and a stretcher and stand and that is another way to do it. I just made new seat rib angles for my RV-3B using these, and except for needing to clean up the grooves made by the shrinker/stretcher, it worked pretty well.

Incidentally, I'm finding that I should have made one additional wide spot at the bulkhead that has the aft horizontal stabilizer mounting bars.

Dave
 
David, that bending tool is a great idea. I think I will make one. Larry, can email the pictures you were referring to? My email address is on my profile page.
 
Actually the rest of the build looks pretty good. There are a few rivets that need to be drilled out. The good news is that the wings are still open and the fuse is a canoe. If this is the only boo-boo then after I get these longerons replaced its off to the race. I will definitely look everything over carefully before it gets installed. This is my second RV-4 build so I have a pretty good idea how things should look.

That particular problem is pretty common. My project had it too. There is not a lot of room there from the inside of the weldment to the edge of the angle. There could well be an approved fix that VANS could give you that would allow you to work with the current longerons i.e. adding a couple more fasteners somewhere. I would bet money they have seen this many times.
 
pics of longeron bend tooling

I'll work to round up the pieces and take pics of them tomorrow at the hangar.
Sorry, I'm an infrequent lurker.
 
Billy, sorry for the delay. The red steel jig is a Fry Jig. I posted a thread about the jig itself here.

They were made for the -3, -4 and -6. Mine is nominally for an RV-4.

There are a number of posts on my RV-3B blog here on VAF starting with post #235 that show how I'm using the jig.

I expect to be done with it in a year or so, more or less, and then I'll be ready to pass it along.

Arlie, sorry for the interruption.

Dave
 
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Update

It’s been a while since I posted on this thread. All of my Photobucket pictures are no longer available. I’m proud to say that the plane is ready to fly and has passed it’s airworthiness inspection. The next chapter is to get the first flight done and complete phase 1. The exterior will need paint but the interior is done except for the stick boots and covers which are at Oregon Aero. Here are a few pictures of the plane and interior. We are really happy with the final results.
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Uhmm what is that little display showing George strait? is that an Ipod mini wired in? if so that looks awesome and would like to know more please about how that was done.
 
Yeah, that?s an iPod that my buddy Justin integrated into the audio panel. He is really good at figuring stuff like that out and make it work flawlessly. He has the data cable and power wired direct into the planes electrical supply. The USB is located in the center tunnel for easy access.
 
Nice job Arlie! Is the Dynon the 7in or 10? Also, curious about the additional nav display below the Dynon. I thought there was a nav display on the Dynon.
 
It?s the small Dynon due to real estate. We have a Garmin 660 for backup. Both can run the autopilot.
 
Brought the -4 into the modern era

It?s the small Dynon due to real estate. We have a Garmin 660 for backup. Both can run the autopilot.

ACAM37,
You really detailed the cockpit switches well and nice job making it IFR capable.

From an old one to the "newest" -4 way to go.

Happy Landings,
Daddyman
 
It?s been a while since I posted on this thread. All of my Photobucket pictures are no longer available. I?m proud to say that the plane is ready to fly and has passed it?s airworthiness inspection. The next chapter is to get the first flight done and complete phase 1. The exterior will need paint but the interior is done except for the stick boots and covers which are at Oregon Aero. Here are a few pictures of the plane and interior. We are really happy with the final results.

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Arlie, thanks for visiting us here at Vaca Moo yesterday, it was great meeting you. Remember when we were talking about a picture that I said looked like it had a wood spar? Look at these two pictures. That's what I was talking about.
 
Oh, I see what you mean? No, the spar is aluminum anodized gold. That?s one way you can tell if it?s a pre built Phlogiston spar? The older RV-4?s required the builder to assemble the spar. Those were not anodized.
 
Oh, I see what you mean? No, the spar is aluminum anodized gold. That?s one way you can tell if it?s a pre built Phlogiston spar? The older RV-4?s required the builder to assemble the spar. Those were not anodized.

Nice. Really good to know we have someone like you for construction and Justin for the electronics side in our neck of the woods !
 
It?s been a while since I posted on this thread. All of my Photobucket pictures are no longer available. I?m proud to say that the plane is ready to fly and has passed it?s airworthiness inspection. The next chapter is to get the first flight done and complete phase 1. The exterior will need paint but the interior is done except for the stick boots and covers which are at Oregon Aero. Here are a few pictures of the plane and interior. We are really happy with the final results.
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Wow, stunning! Love the way you angled the instrument panel, and the side consoles w/switches are very nicely done as well.

Nice choice on avionics too (full disclosure, I now work at Dynon)!
 
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