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Old 01-07-2017, 07:52 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,783

Originally Posted by Reflex View Post

Thanks for the input. I'll use the MK-319BS rivets.

Regarding the rivet height, I agree, they look thin. However they fit perfectly in the gauge. I've found that some of the call-outs can be just a tad short (and some a bit long). In this case, 3-3.5's were specified. Going through the skin, R00904B-1, and R-00918 seemed like a bit of a stretch. They looked short so I checked them with calipers....they were of proper length so I used them.

Should I drill out and use 3-4's? Hate to drill out that .016 skin.


As described in Section 5, the rivets called out in the plans will result in shop heads that meet the Mil Spec (posted by cczarnik), but not necessarily meet the rule of thumb which is what the rivet gauges are measuring to.
The reason this is done is because often when a rivet size is selected that will meet the rule of thumb it is actually just a bit on the long side which makes it
much more likely that a novice builder will have a bunch of them clinch over and then they start removing rivets and things go bad quickly.

A good practice with the rivet gauges is is to get it close to meeting the diam. requirement. You are then probably also close to meeting the height requirement. This usually results in meeting both dimensions for the Mil Spec.

Some builders make there own rivet gauges with holes and notches based on the Mil spec values instead of the 1.5/.5 rule of thumb values.

And no, I don't think you need to remove any rivets.... I was just mentioning it as something you might want to keep in mind as you continue.
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

Scott McDaniels
Hubbard, Oregon
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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