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Interesting day today, lots of smoke in the cockpit!

Walt

Well Known Member
So while doing a small panel upgrade for a customer I had a bit a meltdown on his aircraft. The panel mounted Lightspeed CB, with open and bare terminals was connected directly to the battery, and was located right under the xpdr rack I was replacing (within about 1/8"). Well as soon as the rack came loose it came into contact the uninsulated terminals. (of course I was unaware at the time that this situation existed with a hot bus right below the rack).

I can tell you this, there was a ton of smoke accompanied by some small flames as the wiring began to burn, disintigrate and melt. All the switches and master were off so there was no killing this thing and it just continued to burn until the wiring finally burnt thru. I was scrambling to get the cowl off so I could disconnect the battery, but by the time I got if off the wires has already burnt thru and opened up.

So whats the moral to this story, do not run 'HOT' unprotected (no fuse, CB, contactor controlled) wires into the cockpit. This situation could have easily presented itself from any number of causes (loose hardware, wires, breaker, switches getting loose etc.) If this would have happened in flight there was no way to kill power to the burning wires, and trust me with a closed canopy you would be in serious trouble fast. I was really pretty amazed at how much smoke there was, in the air this likely would have ended badly.

For your Hot battery busses (this includes battery charger pig tails) there should ALWAYS be a fuse (or some type of circuit protection) located at the battery to prevent this kind of thing from happening.
 
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I agree on the fuse bit, and just had to go and read the LSE manual.

To connect power to the ignition system, install the 15-pin input connector from your sensor harness to the ignition module. Route the single conductor shielded power lead to a pull-able breaker, 4-cyl systems use 5A and 6-cyl systems use 7.5A, and then directly to the battery plus terminal, bypassing any electrical buss or master solenoid. Refer to the Input Connector Diagram & the Electrical Requirements.

If I was installing one I think I would add a fusible link at the battery in the breaker-to-battery wire connection.
 
I agree on the fuse bit, and just had to go and read the LSE manual.

To connect power to the ignition system, install the 15-pin input connector from your sensor harness to the ignition module. Route the single conductor shielded power lead to a pull-able breaker, 4-cyl systems use 5A and 6-cyl systems use 7.5A, and then directly to the battery plus terminal, bypassing any electrical buss or master solenoid. Refer to the Input Connector Diagram & the Electrical Requirements.

If I was installing one I think I would add a fusible link at the battery in the breaker-to-battery wire connection.

The reason they (LSE) wants it that way is to prevent noise (hence the shielded power wires), with little/no concern for aircraft safety or standard practices.
And I agree, a fusible link would also be an acceptable method of protecting the wiring.
 
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Of course, the *1st* lesson to be learned is that you don't start turning wrenches, especially for electrical work, without removing the negative wire from the battery terminal...

2nd lesson is, rationally examine mfgrs' install instructions.

3rd is to use a fusible links on critical circuits that nuisance trips might take off line.
 
This thread got me thinking.

My battery and master solenoid are rear mounted with a #2 wire to the engine side of the firewall where it connects to the starter solenoid and ANL fused #8 line back into the cockpit buss.

Is the master solenoid at the battery enough protection on the #2 line or should it also have an ANL fuse? It would have to be a pretty big fuse to handle starter current.
 
Wires

Thanks for posting Walt. Your efforts to increase awareness for the benefit of everyone are appreciated.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
Of course, the *1st* lesson to be learned is that you don't start turning wrenches, especially for electrical work, without removing the negative wire from the battery terminal...

2nd lesson is, rationally examine mfgrs' install instructions.

3rd is to use a fusible links on critical circuits that nuisance trips might take off line.

How about this for lesson 1, read 43-13, chapt 11:

11-47. GENERAL. All electrical wires
must be provided with some means of circuit
protection. Electrical wire should be protected
with circuit breakers or fuses located as close
as possible to the electrical power source bus.
 
This thread got me thinking.

My battery and master solenoid are rear mounted with a #2 wire to the engine side of the firewall where it connects to the starter solenoid and ANL fused #8 line back into the cockpit buss.

Is the master solenoid at the battery enough protection on the #2 line or should it also have an ANL fuse? It would have to be a pretty big fuse to handle starter current.

Yes a contactor is considered a means of wire protection, when you open it you disconnect the circuit.
 
This thread got me thinking.

My battery and master solenoid are rear mounted with a #2 wire to the engine side of the firewall where it connects to the starter solenoid and ANL fused #8 line back into the cockpit buss.

Is the master solenoid at the battery enough protection on the #2 line or should it also have an ANL fuse? It would have to be a pretty big fuse to handle starter current.

The master contactor is the 'protection'. It's accepted practice in certificated a/c. With proper care in routing and installation, you shouldn't ever have an issue, but if it somehow gets its insulation cut by a/c structure (typically a bulkhead pass-through), it'll quickly burn the hole big enough to remove the short. Sounds crazy, but the short to ground is effectively self fusing. You'll likely know it happened (;-) ), and can repair when safely on the ground.

An ANL fuse big enough to handle starter current will net you the same result as what I described above, if you had a fault to ground.

Charlie
 
The reason they (LSE) wants it that way is to prevent noise (hence the shielded power wires), with little/no concern for aircraft safety or standard practices.
And I agree, a fusible link would also be an acceptable method of protecting the wiring.

Walt, I think the reason LSE does this is to allow the engine to continue to run when the master is shut off (in case of some other electrical problem). The LSE needs power via another path to do this. I agree a fuseable link could be considered as is all the wire gauges on that (and every) circuit.

Bevan
 
This thread got me thinking.

My battery and master solenoid are rear mounted with a #2 wire to the engine side of the firewall where it connects to the starter solenoid and ANL fused #8 line back into the cockpit buss.

Is the master solenoid at the battery enough protection on the #2 line or should it also have an ANL fuse? It would have to be a pretty big fuse to handle starter current.

The standard master relay circuit design still baffles me. As in, who in their right mind could have come up with such a failure-prone design in the 1950s, and why does it endure. I did different on my first build, and will repeat on my second as I see no downside to what I did after five years of use.

Install a big mechanical master switch as the only thing the positive battery terminal connects to. Pass the starter current through the switch. Much safer and easier to debug. Esthetics can be improved I'm sure.

512cyc.png
 
Walt, what kind of wire was involved here?

Thanks,
Dave

Well I haven't removed all the remains yet but it looked to be standard Tefzel single cond. shielded wire, the good news is it did 'self extinguish'.
 
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Dan V,
Is your battery mounted directly behind that switch? The reason for a master contactor is the ability to disconnect the fat wire *at the battery*. So if you can put that style switch within a few inches of the battery, it's a great solution. Many others have done the same.
 
Use an in-line blade fuse holder

Yes, I know the LSE manual has it connected directly to the battery, but I have ALWAYS put an in-line fuse there right at the battery. One of the ones that are made to hold an in-line blade auto fuse works well. It usually has a cover on it and can be secured with zip ties right to the main battery cable so it won't come loose.

Vic
 
Yes, I know the LSE manual has it connected directly to the battery, but I have ALWAYS put an in-line fuse there right at the battery. One of the ones that are made to hold an in-line blade auto fuse works well. It usually has a cover on it and can be secured with zip ties right to the main battery cable so it won't come loose.

Vic

I suspect a well built fusible link is more reliable than the typical inline fuse holder, which tends to be manufactured to a very low price point. The terminal crimps are molded in; you can't see them. Won't say they're bad, just that your own fusible link work is probably better.

Traced an intermittent power supply to one yesterday (strobes and rotating beacon on a service truck).
 
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Good warning Walt. Somehow folks got thinking tefzel wire is fireproof, or low smoke, and it's not.

One demonstration worth 1000 words...everybody torch some wire scraps.
 
Good warning Walt. Somehow folks got thinking tefzel wire is fireproof, or low smoke, and it's not.

One demonstration worth 1000 words...everybody torch some wire scraps.

This was certainly a "lively" demonstration of this. :eek:

Something that actually aggravated this situation was the shielded wire, after evaluating the damage it looks like the center conductor quickly burned thru to the shield, so now both the shield and the center conductor was effectively a 'hot' wire. That explains why the LSE connector at the box also got cooked along with all the LSE wiring from begining to end even though the LSE switch was off (the now 'hot' shield found a ground path thru the LSE box and toasted it as well).

Trust me when I say you don't want to experience this in flight!
 
Smoke Hoods

Smoke in the cockpit is one of my biggest concerns...I have had it happen before in a Transport Category aircraft (fire broke out behind engineer?s panel) and it filled the cockpit with smoke so fast I couldn?t believe it. Luckily, we were on the ground taxiing in, so we came to a screeching halt, killed power, and dumped the crew by doing the Evac checklist. Killing power killed the fire, but even then, it still smoked for a long time....if it had happened 15 minutes earlier in flight, I don?t like to wonder what the outcome could have been. Especially since we had just shot an approach at night, overwater, near minimums.

I carry that concern to the GA aircraft I fly. Airlines are required to provide a number of ?PBE? or Personal Breathing Devices to cockpit and crew in the event of a fire/smoke event. I decided to search the marketplace for something similar to at least give me a fighting chance of getting the aircraft on the ground before becoming overcome if I have another smoke event. I found a supplier that has these:

https://www.aeromedix.com/safety-equipment/safe-escape-ase30-and-ase60-smoke-hood

I bought a couple of them to fly with. While they aren?t TSO?d like the stuff in the Part 121 world, they don?t carry the $$$$ price tag those have either. All I?m wanting from them is 10-15 minutes to put the airplane down...somewhere. Anywhere.

Like I said, I?m looking for a fighting chance; having had a few smoke events now over 30+ years, I?m convinced that I won?t be able to hold my breath or keep my eyes clear without some kind of help. I hope I never use these things, but I?m glad I?ve at least got them with me...
 
Dan V,
Is your battery mounted directly behind that switch? The reason for a master contactor is the ability to disconnect the fat wire *at the battery*. So if you can put that style switch within a few inches of the battery, it's a great solution. Many others have done the same.

Correct, the battery is about six inches away. Only the thick zero gauge cable going from it to the switch. The switch is rated to pass 1000 amps for half a minute. It will disconnect a short very reliably. Relays can fuse if disconnected under a high-current short.

I suppose the battery cable could still short in theory, but one has to draw the line somewhere. Also, it is my understanding that Odyssey and other motorcycle AGM batteries have internal fusible link designed in to prevent battery fire in case of a wrench-across-terminals event.
 
The standard master relay circuit design still baffles me. As in, who in their right mind could have come up with such a failure-prone design in the 1950s, and why does it endure. I did different on my first build, and will repeat on my second as I see no downside to what I did after five years of use.

Install a big mechanical master switch as the only thing the positive battery terminal connects to. Pass the starter current through the switch. Much safer and easier to debug. Esthetics can be improved I'm sure.

512cyc.png

Not a cure all in my opinion.....

It is not practical to mount the battery close to the instrument panel (accessibility for maint., lower level of safety should something really bad happen with the battery, etc.).
That means adding a bunch of additional weight in heavy cable to do an out and back (and the added danger of heavy cable penetrating structure with no way to depower it, along with some additional structural penetrations that add potential problems, starter cranking amps losses, etc.

I agree that the master relay method does have a failure potential, but it is a rather rare failure.
 
The switch posted in the prior post is not meant to be mounted in a panel. It is supposed to be mounted as close to the battery as possible.

Vic
 
I did this on my RV-10 (aft battery configuration) with the Light Speed power wire. Coming off the battery there is a 15 amp in-line fuse. Then it goes on forward to a panel mounted 7.5 amp circuit breaker.

The theory is that a malfunction of the LSE box would pop the CB prior to the fuse blowing. Thus, enabling me reset it in flight if I absolutely had to do it. Or even giving me the opportunity to reboot it inflight if I suspect it could be acting flakey.

But if there was a dead short somewhere between the tailcone mounted battery and the panel mounted CB, then the 15 amp fuse will blow fairly quickly and open the line before much smoke is released.

I agree on the fuse bit, and just had to go and read the LSE manual.

To connect power to the ignition system, install the 15-pin input connector from your sensor harness to the ignition module. Route the single conductor shielded power lead to a pull-able breaker, 4-cyl systems use 5A and 6-cyl systems use 7.5A, and then directly to the battery plus terminal, bypassing any electrical buss or master solenoid. Refer to the Input Connector Diagram & the Electrical Requirements.

If I was installing one I think I would add a fusible link at the battery in the breaker-to-battery wire connection.
 
The switch posted in the prior post is not meant to be mounted in a panel. It is supposed to be mounted as close to the battery as possible.

Vic

Correct, the battery is next to the switch in this install. For behind-the-seat batteries the switch could be recessed between the seats.
 
Agreed, nothing cures all, even staying on the couch. :p



My configuration also solves the fused-starter-relay situation, which is fairly common as that contact breaks a couple of hundred amps after every engine start.

Problems are based on personal opinions I guess......

I wont say it doesn't happen, but saying that a stuck starter relay is a reason to have a manual switch is not a good reason in my opinion.
From my experience it would be more appropriate to say it is fairly rare... not fairly common, and in the rare occurrence, if a traditional master relay has been utilized, it would remove power from the starter just as well.

If you used a manual switch and are happy with it... great. That's why they call them experimental.
Just adding another perspective for those still brainalizing their electrical system.
 
I did this on my RV-10 (aft battery configuration) with the Light Speed power wire. Coming off the battery there is a 15 amp in-line fuse. Then it goes on forward to a panel mounted 7.5 amp circuit breaker.

The theory is that a malfunction of the LSE box would pop the CB prior to the fuse blowing. Thus, enabling me reset it in flight if I absolutely had to do it. Or even giving me the opportunity to reboot it inflight if I suspect it could be acting flakey.

But if there was a dead short somewhere between the tailcone mounted battery and the panel mounted CB, then the 15 amp fuse will blow fairly quickly and open the line before much smoke is released.
Phil,

Have you tested it for the action you desire? The reason I ask is that the time constant for most CBs is so much longer than a fast blow fuse, the fuse might well blow first under a lot of overload conditions.
 
I got to our hanger not long after the smoke event occurred and saw the damage. It's was an eye opener.

I've been thinking about my wiring and decided to add an in-line fuse from the aux battery (4Ah EarthX) that is mounted on my firewall. Even though I have a fuse in the cabin, there is probably 2 feet of unprotected wire between the battery and the fuse.

I'm going to add another fuse forward of the firewall just a few inches away from the battery terminal.
 
Master Relay

I was an aircraft mechanic for several years before going into auto/truck repair. That short cable to ever what one uses as a disconnect can cause problems. The shorter the better would be my rule and many installations I have seen over the years, yes home built and owner repaired certified AC also have been very bad and have caused problems have seen autos burned to the ground because of it. One of the worst was the fellow on here who connected his starter cable to ground next to the starter. A switch can be welded shut but have never seen any type of solenoid do the same. Just my FYI as I think those who came before us on how aircraft things like this should be handled knew quite well what they were doing.
 
I got to our hanger not long after the smoke event occurred and saw the damage. It's was an eye opener.

I've been thinking about my wiring and decided to add an in-line fuse from the aux battery (4Ah EarthX) that is mounted on my firewall. Even though I have a fuse in the cabin, there is probably 2 feet of unprotected wire between the battery and the fuse.

I'm going to add another fuse forward of the firewall just a few inches away from the battery terminal.

I similarly got thinking about my wiring. I have a single wire from the battery to an essential bus switch, bypassing the master relay. That wire is going to get a fuse link on the firewall side by the battery.

Thanks, Walt, for passing on an important lesson.
 
Related thought...make sure there's a rubber boot on the positive battery terminal. Without one, if you drop a wrench when, say, removing the cap from the brake fluid reservoir (directly above battery on some RVs), it could instantly short out against the firewall. Not much space between the two.
 
It's the little things that can get you, too. I am guilty of releasing some of the magic smoke myself, from some wire that I really never thought about...

I ordered an Allan Nimmo cowl flap device for my 9A to control high oil temps during hard climbs and installed it, and it worked great (and still does). When I put it in I figured the wire itself would serve as a pretty good fusible link and declined to install a fuse inline for the supply power as the instructions dictate. Fast forward about 150 hours, and one day while working on an unrelated item in my panel I buttoned it back up and flipped on the master, and was amazed at the quantity of smoke coming from behind it.

Come to find out, after shutting everything down and inventing some new vocabulary, all I'd done was smoke about 3 feet of the 28-guage wire for the cowl flap - it attaches to power/ground and has some mating female/male pins to extended wiring for longer runs - but the male pins are on the power/ground side of the connection rather than the load side. The result is that under the panel you can inadvertently tug on wires while working on other items under there and these can easily disconnect at the extension point - which leaves one hot pin and one ground pin exposed - and the hot pin grounded against my 430W case. When I flipped the master, the magic smoke escaped.

I called AntiSplat Aero, and they sent me new wiring at no cost - which was not expected nor asked for, and for which I'm grateful - but I also mentioned to them the problem and the cause and recommended they reverse the pin location. They responded that this was supplied by a third party and they don't have control of that - but I do, and I changed it on my airplane as well as adding a fuse.

Be careful up there.
 
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A switch can be welded shut but have never seen any type of solenoid do the same.

A quick googling for "stuck starter solenoid" shows how ridiculous this statement is. Several such events have been described here at VAF over the years. Battery switches, on the other hand, are designed to reliably break a thousand amps using sliding contacts. Since they never have to do that in normal operation, the one time you really need them to in a choking panic they are highly unlikely to fail you.


Just my FYI as I think those who came before us on how aircraft things like this should be handled knew quite well what they were doing.

If that were true our experimentals would not be outnumbering "certified" designs today. Such attitude almost ended the U.S. auto industry in the 1980s.
 
A quick googling for "stuck starter solenoid" shows how ridiculous this statement is. Several such events have been described here at VAF over the years. Battery switches, on the other hand, are designed to reliably break a thousand amps using sliding contacts. Since they never have to do that in normal operation, the one time you really need them to in a choking panic they are highly unlikely to fail you.

Just looking at your switch and the key it uses, it looks like a press contact switch. As the key is turned, a tab on the key rides on a cam that forces the contacts closed. A spring is expected to force the contacts apart when the key is turned back.

An easy test..... push the key in without turning and see if contact is made. If it is truly a sliding contact, then you do have a reliable disconnect switch.
 
Remote Battery Disconnect

The Blue Sea switch that Dan posted a link to seems to be a great idea to me.

There are remote switches that can be mounted at the battery in the engine compartment and mechanically operated from the cockpit. IIRC there are some examples of this in the certified world albeit in very old airplane and more likely a starter switch. Consider this switch that comes with a T-handle and an 18” linkage:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-830051

As a mechanic it is ingrained that the first thing to do before working on electrical is to disconnect the battery. Although the design may have been faulty the destruction caused was not the designs fault. It was the fault of the one who did not follow this well known procedure. I hope original poster is not charging the owner of the damaged plane for the damages he caused.
 
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Just looking at your switch and the key it uses, it looks like a press contact switch. As the key is turned, a tab on the key rides on a cam that forces the contacts closed. A spring is expected to force the contacts apart when the key is turned back.

An easy test..... push the key in without turning and see if contact is made. If it is truly a sliding contact, then you do have a reliable disconnect switch.

H'm, now that you've planted the seeds of doubt, I think I'll buy another switch and cut it apart to study.

I can confirm that pushing the key in does not make contact.

FWIW, this design didn't elicit any comments from the airworthiness inspector (who asked that I put a rubber boot over the negative battery terminal as well, go figure). It was also endorsed by a high time pilot and homebuilder who is a retired professional electrician.
 
You might find out how the switch is made without buying another one by contacting Blue Sea Systems technical support
https://www.bluesea.com/products/6004/Single_Circuit_ON-OFF_with_Locking_Key_-_Red/FAQ

Click on Frequently Asked questions then on Contact Technical Support

The ratings of the switch are very good. It is ignition and water proof. The key design is for locking when removed and the amp rating and surge rating are such that one would think it is a properly designed battery switch.
 
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Smoke hood

Smoke in the cockpit is one of my biggest concerns...I have had it happen before in a Transport Category aircraft (fire broke out behind engineer?s panel) and it filled the cockpit with smoke so fast I couldn?t believe it. Luckily, we were on the ground taxiing in, so we came to a screeching halt, killed power, and dumped the crew by doing the Evac checklist. Killing power killed the fire, but even then, it still smoked for a long time....if it had happened 15 minutes earlier in flight, I don?t like to wonder what the outcome could have been. Especially since we had just shot an approach at night, overwater, near minimums.

I carry that concern to the GA aircraft I fly. Airlines are required to provide a number of ?PBE? or Personal Breathing Devices to cockpit and crew in the event of a fire/smoke event. I decided to search the marketplace for something similar to at least give me a fighting chance of getting the aircraft on the ground before becoming overcome if I have another smoke event. I found a supplier that has these:

https://www.aeromedix.com/safety-equipment/safe-escape-ase30-and-ase60-smoke-hood

I bought a couple of them to fly with. While they aren?t TSO?d like the stuff in the Part 121 world, they don?t carry the $$$$ price tag those have either. All I?m wanting from them is 10-15 minutes to put the airplane down...somewhere. Anywhere.

Like I said, I?m looking for a fighting chance; having had a few smoke events now over 30+ years, I?m convinced that I won?t be able to hold my breath or keep my eyes clear without some kind of help. I hope I never use these things, but I?m glad I?ve at least got them with me...

Just ordered one. Thanks for the post! $70 is not a lot of money and a smart safety investment just in case.
 
Just ordered one. Thanks for the post! $70 is not a lot of money and a smart safety investment just in case.

Al, I agree!

In fact, when not flying the RV I throw one in my suitcase and take it with me during my airline trips. Most every layover we have stays in a high-rise hotel in a 3rd world location...and I've experienced a couple of (minor) hotel fires in my career.

I don't want to be found dead in a stairwell 2 floors above ground level and safety....

Again...a fighting chance is all I'm looking for.

Fellow road warriors might want to consider it as well.

Sorry to the OP for the thread drift....

Rob
 
I didn't want to take focus of thread away from wiring, but was thinking about the smoke issue. The masks posted above seem like pretty good steps in terms of breathing, but what have people done to help suction the smoke out of cockpit after fire is put out? Opening vents helps with air flow in - if there is an out path to move air in bulk.

Thoughts?
 
Several documented instances of a tip-up being unlatched during takeoff, mine included. The canopy will ride open about 6" without significant trim change, at least that is the case at pattern speeds. I suspect the same will occur at cruise, but my unlatched canopy experience is limited to ~125 kts.

If the cabin was filling with dense smoke I would definitely slow to 125 kts and open the canopy. If rapidly filling with dense smoke....probably not wait to slow down..... ;)
 
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Anecdotal evidence is that sliders will act more or less like the tipup, which is widely documented. At worst, you wouldn't be able to open the slider at all, but it won't fly aft if you unlatch. High pressure on the back of the canopy prevents it.

The side tippers like the -4 are the radical exception. They are *designed* to 'unzip' and depart the a/c if unlatched in flight. And yes, it's been tested, multiple times.
 
I have a single plasma III and it calls for 5 amp. protection. I have a panel mounted 5 amp. breaker as per LightSpeed's instructions but after reading this post for a while I've decided to add a fusible link at the battery. I installed a 24 gauge wire about 3/4" with the proper sleeve (purchased a fusible link kit a while back). I do not have any literature with the kit so I looked up the load that one can put on 24 gauge wire and it's 3.5 amps. So I'm thinking if 24 gauge wire is good for 3.5 amps and LightSpeed is asking for 5 amps I should be about right with this for a fusible link? What do you think ? 24 gauge wire came with the kit.
Thanks
 
I have a single plasma III and it calls for 5 amp. protection. I have a panel mounted 5 amp. breaker as per LightSpeed's instructions but after reading this post for a while I've decided to add a fusible link at the battery. I installed a 24 gauge wire about 3/4" with the proper sleeve (purchased a fusible link kit a while back). I do not have any literature with the kit so I looked up the load that one can put on 24 gauge wire and it's 3.5 amps. So I'm thinking if 24 gauge wire is good for 3.5 amps and LightSpeed is asking for 5 amps I should be about right with this for a fusible link? What do you think ? 24 gauge wire came with the kit.
Thanks

Size the fuse link for some reasonable multiple of the actual load, which may or may not be the breaker size somebody specified earlier. In theory, that breaker was sized to protect the specified wire; the load was smaller.

Klaus specified 18 or 20 ga power supply wire. If you have 20ga, then a 24ga link is the norm. If (like most ignitions) the Lightspeed's power draw is in the 1.5 amp ballpark, a 3.5 amp fusible link should be fine.

That said, I wire an ignition feed in 18ga, then use a 22ga fusible link, just so the components are physically robust.

BTW, with a fusible link at the power source, you don't need the panel breaker anymore. Pitch it.
 
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I was able to wire tie both ends of the fusible to the alum. battery box clamp to secure it in place so it should not move around and break.
Thanks Dan
 
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