fuse assembly questions RV-12

1. 2902 step 3 plans call for riveting nutplate only at top hole. Am now on 2903 step 2 . Looking ahead can find no instruction to add 2nd rivet to nutplate.

2. Also dimpled 6 #30 holes on bottom of 1201A. Plan calls for flush on top which is contrary to the dimples I put on the F1201B shelf and the F1257 rudder support channels. I am unable to find dimple position instructions for these. I suppose I need to reverse these dimples but want to be certain before doing so. Lastly I presume these positions take CS$-4 rivets, but can find no plan view of those either.
Would appreciate any clarification on these issues from you folks who are ahead of this stage. Thanks
Dick RV6A and lovimg it till the 12 is ready

Pages 29-02 & 29-03

I dimpled the F-1270 side skin for the nutplate #8 screw and bottom rivet before starting page 29-03. I can not remember the exact sequence, but I put the bottom rivet in while I had a chance. I figured that I could always drill it out later if need be, but there was never a need to.
As for the dimples on the bottom flange of F-1201A, Page 29-02 Revision 1 calls for the bottom to be flush. See http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices2.htm
And Page 29-03 Revision 3 calls for CS4-4 as you suspected. I do not know why they want the bottom flush. It must have something to do with parts in the finish kit.
Joe

fuse assembly questions RV12

Thanks, Joe. I need to get in the habit of checking for revisions for each section. The second nutplate rivet makes sense as well.
Dick

I am at the exact same spot. The screw hole in the side skin should have been dimpled for a #8 screw but it is NOT. The squeezer will fit and allow me to dimple the rivet hole but what should I do with the #8 screw hole in the side skin that is NOT dimpled???

Marty

Dimple it. If you look on page 29-05 Figure 3, All of the #8 screw holes get dimpled. On the same page, Step 7 says to screw the F-1240 Fuselage Skin to the side skin F-1270. If one skin is dimpled, its mating hole in the other skin also must be dimpled. Hope this helps.
Joe Gores

With the nutplate installed, what is the best way to dimple the screw hole. Or should I drill out the nutplate and start over?? The side skins were installed in Section 23 of the plans. Went back and looked. Can't find any mention of dimpling the rivet hole or the screw hole in the side skin??????

Marty

You could try using a flush rivet set instead of the female die and let the nutplate take the place of a female die. Or you could put grease around the hole in the side skin and tighten up a flat head screw in the hopes that the screw will dimple the skin. Drilling out the rivets is not a problem. But squeezing a new top rivet might be. You can try easy methods first. If they do not work, do it the hard way. Let us know how you did it.
Joe

Use the dimple with the flush set.

Mich48041 said:

You could try using a flush rivet set instead of the female die and let the nutplate take the place of a female die. Or you could put grease around the hole in the side skin and tighten up a flat head screw in the hopes that the screw will dimple the skin. Drilling out the rivets is not a problem. But squeezing a new top rivet might be. You can try easy methods first. If they do not work, do it the hard way. Let us know how you did it.
Joe

Click to expand...

I used this technique to dimple the side skins and it turned out well.

Bruce,

Which option worked? The flush set option or the screw option or drilling out the nutplate?

Use the dimple with the flush set.

MartySantic said:

Bruce,

Which option worked? The flush set option or the screw option or drilling out the nutplate?

Click to expand...

Marty,
I had the same problem today. I used the male die in the hole with the flush set backing up the nutplate. The side skin dimpled with a light squeeze. I got a really good flush fit with top skin, so I know I got a dimple to spec. Hope this helps. I think we are in about the same spot with the build, although I see you have a finish kit in the shop. Mine ships next week.

Bruce

#8 Dimple Now Looks Good!!

The two dimples turned out just fine. Thanks to all for the ideas. Here is what I ended up doing. Cut a small piece of steel tubing that just fit around the beveled base of the K1100 nutplate, about 3/8 long. Squeezed it using the #8 male die in front, and on the other side of the skins, my homemade spacer and a flat set behind. Got a real nice looking #8 dimple. The spacer prevented any damage to the rear end of the nutplate threads. Squeezing the rivet hole for an AN426 rivet was no problem with the normal dimple set.

Thanks!! Onward to top skin attachment.