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Elevator Trim Motor Wires

AboveMSL

Well Known Member
I'm wondering if the elevator trim molex connector, near the motor, needs to be fastened/secured inside the motor bay or if it just floats freely in there?

Thanks,
Greg

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Wow. That was quick

Thanks for the quick reply Mike. I'm a first time builder, may I ask what technique you might use to secure it? My first thought was a dab of silicone.
 
cable tie mount

I like to pop rivet a small cable tie mount to the structure inside if able; otherwise a self-stick cable tie mount can be used. There are also other ways to keep wires from moving around such as tying to another bundle of wires; it depends on what else is nearby. I make sure that wires cannot chafe on anything and not get caught on any moving parts, especially control pushrods, etc.!
 
I wouldn't glue the connector; I'd use cable ties on the wires, close to the connector, both sides. No wires should be flopping around, anywhere.
 
Thanks for the quick reply Mike. I'm a first time builder, may I ask what technique you might use to secure it? My first thought was a dab of silicone.

Here is how I did the trim servo connectors on my 10. I used Deans connectors, but that doesnt matter----look at the tie down method. You can also see the black lacing cord I used to make sure the two halves of the connector will not separate accidentally.

No problems at 235 hours :D

You might try some self adhesive Velcro material?????

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I used Velcro on mine too (and to secure the magnetometer as well, augmented by a couple of velcro straps around the unit and mount).

Mike, those Deans plugs are great. I've used a few here and there. A tight-fitting, quality connector with gold-plated contacts, available at hobby shops everywhere. Lacing cord is great; you can also put heat shrink around the whole connector, and cut it off with an X-Acto if removal is necessary.
 
Mike, those Deans plugs are great. I've used a few here and there. A tight-fitting, quality connector with gold-plated contacts, available at hobby shops everywhere. Lacing cord is great; you can also put heat shrink around the whole connector, and cut it off with an X-Acto if removal is necessary.

And, they are available up to 6 (or maybe more?) pin units, and all are polarized so you cant put them together wrong.

In the photo above, I modified a three pin so I could de-polarize it, and used that for the motor wiring, just in case I needed to reverse the trim tab direction. The polarized three pin unit is for the feedback pot wires.
 
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